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#1
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I have a set of stock T-3s for my car but the low beams have a little fogging on the upper quarter of the lens.
I think I will put aftermarket lights in and wanted to know what Y'all are using.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#2
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Use halogens. But take a T3 with you when you buy them. I found with a set of Sylvanias I, that the spades would not go into the plugs with the cup on my 66. The stock setup won't hook up to the lights and stay plugged in. The spades on the back of the lights are too short and/or too close to the back of the light. Not sure if 67s plugs are the same as 66 or not.
So make sure you take a T3 and compare the Halogens to it.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#3
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I got Wagner Halogens from NAPA, they fit fine.
NAPA #'s H5006 & H5001. Charles |
#4
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Is there any heat issue with the halogens?
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#5
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None that I'm aware of. I added hidden relays up front also.
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#6
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Can I ask what the relays were for? Do I need them if I go with halogens?
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#7
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It reduced the current through the wiring and headlight switch from just shy of 12 Amps on High beam to 0.1 Amps. They also provide full battery voltage to the sealed beams which provides brighter lights.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml Charles |
#8
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I've gone back and forth between NAPA halogens and T-3s. I suspect if I was going to travel a couple hundred miles at night, especially on back roads, I would prefer the halogens. But to me the difference in brightness isn't noticeable for the majority of the driving I do, so I've been running the T-3s. There's just something about the triangle on the lenses and the yellowish glow of those lights on the road that adds to the vintage feel of the car.
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"If the best Mustang is the Camaro, the best Camaro is actually the Firebird" David Zenlea |
#9
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Ive been converting all of mine that are driven to Hellas
you can get replacement lamps for them up to 100w and the pattern is killer for a bright light Ive even played with converting a couple of them to HIDs with a hood to reduce glare. Way back over 40 yrs ago I changed the highs to GE aircraft landing lights. you can feel the heat come off them at 5 ft away. I loaned my car to a friend for a couple wks and he had to change them out for yearly inspection dropped one and broke it so from that point on I ran just one in the passenger side high.
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Everything comes and goes Pleasure moves on too early And trouble leaves too slow |
#10
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Hellas or Cibies are the way to go. "E code" versions are supposed to be some of the best but you will be paying for them. And the relays are a great idea as well, not only for brighter lights but to take that big amp draw off of your headlight switch and fuse block in the car.
Here is another link to learn more about lighting http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html Cammer I have heard of people using the aircraft lights before. That is something I would like to see in person.
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William (BJ) 1966 Pontiac GTO |
#11
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#12
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I am on the fence here. I won't be driving the car that much after dark because of the bugs and deer so I may keep the T-3s.
But, the brighter lights would help if I am out after dark. I'll sleep on it for a couple years!
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#13
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I have T3's for the low beams and the Sylvania Halogens for high beams. The Sylvanias plugged right in, no issues.
You wouldnt even know they were Halogens unless I told you. They look the same. I dont use a relay. They have been on for at least 11 years at this point. 0 Issues. I do have a bigger alternator though.
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........I'm just learning as I go....... |
#14
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Bill, Cibies are some of the best lights out there.... Especially their driving and fog lights. Wish I could find them again to mount under the bumper.
Well I did find them. but not the complete unit with the cover. Most links for Cibie take you to someother non Cibie website. ![]()
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. Last edited by GT182; 08-20-2012 at 11:15 AM. |
#15
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Gary do the lights on the link below look like what you need?
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/p.../products.html
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William (BJ) 1966 Pontiac GTO |
#16
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http://www.lectriclimited.com/lighting_fuse_sets.htm#T3 Bulbs
Been using these for over 6 years now and they work great no Yellow light, Plug & Play!
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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my grandfather did, in his sleep. Not screaming like the passengers in his car. ![]() |
#17
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Jeff,
Thanks for the link. When I get over the shock of the order I just placed with our host I will strongly consider them.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
#18
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Phil, the Cibie series 35s are what I had. Driving and clear fog. They'd look a bit odd on the front of a GTO but they are by far the best I've ever used. If they're mounted under the bumper you can see in rotten weather with them alone, where you can't see anything with regular and halogen headlights. I 've been thru a blizzard with only the Cibie driving lights and parking lights on. With halogen head lights on I couldn't see a thing at 20 mph. Cibies on I could drive at 50 with no problem and see 300' ahead of me.... no one else was on the Interstate but me. And they're great to flash on when an idiot is coming at you and won't dim his headlights. They get their attention really fast.
![]() As for his headlights I think I'd only use the H1 highbeams. Halogens for around town. I forgot but I do have Dan's wesite saved.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. Last edited by GT182; 08-20-2012 at 11:31 PM. |
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