[69goatboy]

I'm slowly finishing my basement (it's my project to do in the winter months).

The basement is studded, so now is the time to do the insulation, HVAC, and electric work.

When insulating basement walls, are you supposed to use the batten type with the liner, or without? If with the liner, is it installed with the liner to the outside walls, or to the inside? Also, should the insulation run floor to ceiling, or just down halfway to cover the frost line?

Also, the area that I'm planning on for my TV area is going to have the ceiling drywalled (there isn't any utilities above, so it's perfect). But I'm worried about sound insulation. (The wife probably will not care for surround sound cranked up to levels that most males prefer ). Can I insulate the ceiling with the batten stuff as well? If so, which way should the liner be? Or should I be looking at something different?

Thanks in advance.
Jamie

[PLAY400]

I used non backed R12 batts and ran it to the bottom plate. Next is the part to seal the wall. Use 6-10 ga vapor barrier, tape and caulking. To do it right all outlets on the outside walls should be put in plastic enclosures, sealed and the vapor barrier taped to it to prevent drafts thru the outlets. Make sure the vapor barrier is installed so it seals the wall. Tape all joints. I also fill the cavities above the cement with batts and then caulk a 2" solid piece of foam insulation to seal it well.

There is a batt you can buy for just sound insulation. Buddy put them in his place and they do work

[69goatboy]

Thanks for the reply.

Which side does the backing of the batt go? Towards the outside wall or towards the vapor barrier?

[PLAY400]

If you're using paper backed insulation the paper is towards the inside of the house, vapor barrier, and stapled to the studs. Never liked paper backed as it makes it harder to install the vapor barrier nice and smooth over the paper on the studs

[pontiak]

I've always heard -NEVER double vapor barrier! If you are using a plastic sheet vapor barrier, then use unfaced insulation. I would go floor to ceiling and sound insulation overhead is a big plus.

[stags]

Originally Posted by pontiak

I've always heard -NEVER double vapor barrier! If you are using a plastic sheet vapor barrier, then use unfaced insulation. I would go floor to ceiling and sound insulation overhead is a big plus.

Correct !! Double vapor barrier will almost certainly lead to trapped moisture and everything that brings. Use one or the other (kraft faced or poly over unfaced) but not both.

Jamie, I'm not sure what your year round averages are for temp/ humidity but here in southeastern Pa. I never recommend poly vapor barriers. They are too extreme for our climate - especially our hot humid summers. I would check with some local contractors to see what they recommend in your specific area. Run the insulation top to bottom and completely surround your "finished" space to ensure even temperatures throughout.

For sound go with as thick a blanket as possible - no facing required here. Also, look into hanging the ceiling drywall on isolation strips (or Z channel) and wrapping the walls of the TV room with insulation as well.

Feel free to give me a call if you want - been doing insulation work for a long time.

Mark O. 610-496-4578

[69goatboy]

Thanks all for the replies.

Batten with kraft towards the drywall it is.

I'll certainly look into the isolation strips. Not looking for total sound proofing, just enough to keep the wife from yelling "Turn that down! You're rattling the whole house!"

[Ed Fitzgerald]

The sound proof insulation we use is Roxul. If you want a real air tight basement follow the previous instructions then after you finish the vapour barrier strap over it with 2x2 and use shallow elecrical boxes and run the electrical between the studs. That way you don't puncture the vapour barrier and the wiring and outlet boxes are on the warm side of the vapour barrier. If you fill the voids between the floor joists at the plate with packed pink insulation then cut and fit SM flush with the wall and caulk it you will have an almost airtight basement. Then let the HVAC change the air in the house not mother nature. This will give you the best bang for your buck and depending on windows/ doors/ housewrap (Typar) you should be at about 2-5 air changes per hour. Mike Holmes would be hard pressed to do any better. My thinking is... If you have enough money and time to do it twice, You have enough money and time to do it right the first time. For all the people who say it is too much bother and money... remember as the sweetness of less money wears off the bitterness of poor quality remains for ever.

[PLAY400]

The paper backing on insulation is not a vapor barrier or atleast I have yet to see any and I shop at an US Menards for my big projects. Only use for it that I can see is it allows you to staple the insulation to the studs. Hot, cold, moist or dry you will benefit from a vapor barrier. Once the house is sealed that you just have to fiddle with your dehumidifier and fresh air intake.

[My442]

Only way to go is spray foam, closed cell.

Has the best insulating properties.

I would use it over batts any day.

[fiedlerh]

If there is any chance the basement may flood, use styrofoam for the bottom 18" or so.