[DBONES152]

Over the last few months, I am getting an accumulation of debris in my overflow tank off the radiator. I clean it out and after a few runs, there is more debris, so I think its time to flush. I don’t have one of those tees in the return line from the heater core, so I’m thinking of doing the following:

1. Remove the return line from the heater core to the water pump.
2. Attach the hose to the water pump where the return line normally attaches. This should flush the pump, block, and heater core, with the discharge water coming from the return line.
3. Drain and flush the radiator.

I think this will work, unless there’s something I’m missing. Also, is there any danger of damaging the heater core by turning the water on too hard?

Since water cools better than antifreeze, I refill the cooling system with one gallon of 50/50 mix, and the rest water. I have a heated garage over the winter.

Thanks,
Dan

[Pontirag]

I think you would be ok.

what kind of debris and what may have caused it to loosen up and start flowing through your system?

I dont think you would damage the core as long as you use typical residential water pressure. I seen people use compressed air as well and it always seems to lead to problems

your antifreez mixture...you might reconsider. especialy if you drive in the winter. the wind chill through your radiator could cause the antifreez mixture to slush up or actually freeze Blocking flow nd that could cause the engine to quicly overheat. been there done that. Best to just mix all antifreeze 50/50 nd call it good.

[PMDRACER]

Keep in mind that while a radiator cap will limit the system pressure to 12-18 psi, residential water supply will be in the nieghborhood of 60-80 psi. In the case of my house, I'm up to a full 95 psi.

Plan accordingly.

[FirebirdHank]

I flushed mine out exactly that way last fall. Then I hooked up the hose to the return line and back flushed the system. I was amazed at the crud that came out and now the heater actually throws some heat. The amount of pressure will only be a problem if there is a full blockage in which case something will probably give.

[Pontirag]

I had no idea water pressure could be so great.

If you flush it through and the other end is open, I assumed it was going to be, you should still not have a problem

after flushing it all out i would run fresh water through it and add a can of CLR to the water and run it around for about a day then flush it again.

as a last resort you could dain it all out ,add water and some DRANNO. runn it up to temp for about half an hour and flush it thoroughly. This is very hard on the waterpump lube/bearings and it may result in having the pump go bad in short time.

[PMDRACER]

If you're going the additive route, I've had good luck with the Prestone flush stuff.

Drain the system, fill with straight water and add the Prestone. Drive the car for however long the bottle says. Drain that and do the garden hose back flush.

[marshallbeach]

It seems like everytime I used a cleaner when flushing, I had a water pump seal soon go bad. The backflush method is by far the best way to clean the cooling system. I also always add a small condtainer of the silver or gold color granular stop leak, and a can of water pump lube when I refill the system wiith Peak. You will need to pull the t-stat if using fresh, cool water to flush. Also, straight 50/50 should help your corrosion problem.

[Pontirag]

yea, as a rule anything that cleans the system will also flush lube away from the pump.