[moontower69]

Is teflon tape best way to solve leaking fuel lines into brass fittings on a tripower? I have a fuel pressure regulator, but still after a few hundred miles, fittings start dripping fuel onto intake manifold. Any better product out here than teflon, like a hardening sealer?

[tom s]

IMO,you dont want any tap on those fittings.I have found you can buy small copper washers used in the A/C biz to put between the brass fitting and the fuel line flair.BEST thing I have ever found.Tom

[dlw6767]

use liquid teflon, works perfect..

[Mr. P-Body]

IF the fittings are in good condition, adding ANYTHING will prompt them to leak. A "double flare" fitting is like those on brake systems. Clean and dry.

Jim

[Tom Vaught]

Best way is to buy a NEW set of proper Tri-Power Lines from Tim Benko (The Line Man) in Ohio. Not that expensive and new fittings/ lines will always seal up best.

Tom Vaught

[b-man]

Just to add on to the good advice that has already been offered here, the factory fuel lines seal by having the 45-degree flare of the tubing clamped against the tapered seat of the brass fitting.

The tube nut itself does not do anything but hold the tube flare tightly against the tapered seat of the brass fitting to effect a seal, using teflon sealing tape on these tube nut threads will accomplish nothing since the fuel itself is not in contact with these threads.

These are called inverted flare fittings and work very well as long as the double flare on the tube end is not overly crushed from too many uses, this is probably more of an issue on the softer aluminum Tri-Power fuel lines than on steel brake lines.

Buying a new set of lines is probably the easiest way to solve your problem.

[moontower69]

Thanks everyone, they are indeed the softer aluminum lines -- does anyone have Tim Benko's/The Line Man's contact info? Gonna buy some new lines from him, install and see what happens.

[Rugratman]

Get new lines, and dont " crank " them tight. Very Snug is correct.
Too tight will distort the ends.

[old66tiger]

If things are leaking, there is something wrong with the flare of the lines or the sealing surface of the fittings. When I assemble flare fittings, I like to put some antiseize between the flare nut and the flare. That way, when you start to tighten the nut, it will not bind on the back side of the flare, twisting the line. Also, you will be able to get it apart really easy if needed. For leaks at the carbs, I use a thick teflon paste. If they are really bad, I have also used tape first followed with a paste coating. However, that approach is a bad aid to sleeving the NPT input to the carbs. Mike Wasson does this for a minimal charge. He also has the correct lines.

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