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#21
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It probably won't help but I just looked in their catalog and they show two different versions of this "new' piping. And the pics show that the earlier, 66-67, piping has a distinctly different profile compared to the piping for the 68-72 cars.
Just on the rare chance.....check the profile against their catalog or website (maybe they also have a pic of the stuff on the web) and make sure they sent you the right year piping. They show PN 132Y as piping or 66-7 and 132Z as piping for 68-72.
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html |
#22
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However, I did have the same problem with glue dripping out of the piping in the summer, even though I didn't use any glue! I had to clean that crap off the backs of the seats and the carpet every fall for years. ![]()
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"I fishtail through the lanes, and I make my tires squeal. Power at my feet, and glory at the wheel. I wind the windows down, let the wind blow through my hair. God knows where I'm goin' to, but me... I don't care." |
#23
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Yes--alot of the thinner, earlier piping had a pre-applied bead of glue on the inside. I recently worked on a set of the new original grain repro plastic seatbacks/bases a customer sent over....he ordered it with the piping in place (it was the thinner piping). I had to do some painting/dying to the pieces so the trim had to come off and we were going to replace the thin piping with the new Ames stuff. This thin piping too had some sort of rubber like glue bead but it was relatively easy to peel off the seat backs/bases (probably because the parts were new).
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX 64-72 GM A-Body Gas Tank Pads http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...tion-item.html Last edited by P Glade; 01-09-2011 at 04:29 PM. |
#24
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Here are some pictures of my newly reupholstered seats with the new oem style piping and end caps, I think the end caps are the trick to getting them to stay on correctly and tightly. Once I cut mine to the correct length I put the end cap on and with a pair of pliers with the inner rounded portion of the teeth covered with duct tape, I crimped them on the piping, then when I put them on the lower trim pieces and even the back, they actually went on really tight and kind of snapped on at the end. I have pushed down on the seat forcing the cusion against the piping and even sat on them in the basement,(man do they feel nice) and the piping seems to be staying in place with no problems. Hope this helps [
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#25
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Piping and end caps look great. Very nice job.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#26
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Thanks, I am very pleased with the way they turned out, and glad I spent the extra money for the correct piping.
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#27
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I called Ames and they're sending another set, so we'll see. I do appreciate the back up from Ames!
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#28
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Please let me know if the new set is correct.
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#29
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#30
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#31
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#32
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Thanks for the pics. Mine don't come close to laying right at the top. Hopefully, the new pair will...
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#33
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Got the new seat piping from Ames, but the problem is the same. Fit at the top is not good.
![]() ![]() I tried gluing the 1st time, and that didn't work. Here's what I figured out: With a pair of needlenose, along the edge of the seatback I pinched, twisted, and pulled simultaneously every inch or two. This created a series of barbs along the edge. ![]() ![]() This gave the edging something to fasten to and the result is a good fit! ![]() ![]()
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