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Old 10-19-2010, 02:54 PM
Murf'sDad's Avatar
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Default Couple of Questions

I just got my front suspension back together with the B-body spindle and 1LE rotors and PTFB upper A-arms. All seemed to be well until I went to put on the wheels (original honeycombs). The PS went on with no problem. The DS wheel has interference problems with the outside corner of the caliper (CarQuest OEM replacements). I figure its a caliper casting that is a touch bigger or didn't get properly contoured so I'm going to contour it on the bench grinder. It shouldn't take the removal of more than an 1/8" strip of material, 1/2" wide along the outside corner of the caliper.

Can any one see a problem with some minor grinding on the corner of the caliper?

My second question relates to the front spring rates. Which side should have the higher rate, passenger's or driver's side?

Thanx, Stewart

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  #2  
Old 10-19-2010, 05:45 PM
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Stewart,
I don't have an exact answer on which spring needs to have a higher rate...

BUT,
the lower control arm snubber on my car has been smashed on the passenger side of my car, for a long time...I've never driven it in a manner for it to be that way for ANY reason...My car is awaiting a major overhaul, like yours is getting now...

I was fortunate (maybe) a friend gave me the shell of a 1979 firebird, it had 2 good doors, RH quarter was nearly perfect, had some other goodies, not that much left though...
The RH front coil spring on this car had some spacers screwed into the RH coil, only, that side snubber was smashed. The LH snubber looks like new, like my car...

My car had A/C, so did the 79, the 79 showed to have a 305, or so the VIN indicates.
305, man I hate those numbers, when they come in that sequence...no wonder people started buying import cars around this time...

I am wondering if the factory might over compensate the coil rate for the drivers side,
since cars then and now, generally have one passenger most of the time (driver) and make it's rate higher, and as both springs degrade, the pass side, is particularly weaker....

Now we'll both wait for the expert knowlege

I'm sure that the casting tolerence for calipers is not extremely precise, 1/8" isn't enough to even think about...
I'm guessing your wheels are 15", 14's wouldn't even go over the studs w/ your new brake setup
Jeff

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  #3  
Old 10-19-2010, 09:43 PM
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Default

Will be no issue with machining the caliper slightly to clear the wheel.

Lots of meat on the caliper.

I also did the 1LE / tall spindle swap with GW uppers and modded lowers.
My issue was the outer tire edge hit the lower fender curve as the 1LE / Tall spindle moves the wheel physically outward 1/2" on each side of the car.

Tom Vaught

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