[92GA]

badgto, I have clearone 1/8" windshields in both Charlies 96 bird and in my Grand Am. He said when we were at pinks in St.Louis last year the windshield did come in a little, but not bad. The one in my GA doesn't move at all. Charlie bought a formed one for his car, I just bought a straight sheet for mine. Did the trimming with a jig saw with a fine tooth blade.

[turbo69bird]

I dont know if you guys have them near you but I use a wholesaler called curbell plastics.

Just look in the yellow pages under plastics and you usually can buy 4 X 8 sheets pretty reasoanble.

I used to use a product called PETG for ATV plastic hoods I made with vac forming it was clear and colored very cool stuff. Not sure if it would be suitable for a windshield, Maybe a side glass though.

On my race car I made the side lexan removable so I can go for a cruise with no glass in the car.
It was very simple and since my car is turbo'd and I run on pump gas its easy to drive on the street.
Its sucked before I had the removable glass.

[73LeMans]

While we are on the topic..... What kind of heat did anyone apply when trying to make a curved piece? Did you just place it over the glass you are trying to emulate and slowly heat it up or did you use a different method?

[75cancup]

73 We dry our poly at 250 degrees to pull any moisture out of it pryor to it being extruded

It dumps in the equipment at 350 and goes as high as 490 , you need around 300 to to form it . good luck .

[jts ocd-stang]

Brian,
Hey I got a sheet of polycarbonate 4'x8' x 1/4"thick from a local company in Indianapolis,In.(Meyer Plastics)no shipping charges we went and picked it up, it is called "PALSUN" like you said there are many names to this stuff,this kind has a scratch resistant on one side.I have a box of 100 count Stainless Steel button head Torks #20 that are 6-32x3/4" from Camcar out of Decorah,IA.I was wanting to know if I should use a small washer/and lock washer/and a polylock nut?The polylock nut will have a washer and lock washer as well on the inside.I plan on like you suggested to drill the holes a tiny bit larger for body flex/climate/temp. changes?Do you think this is over kill or just doing it right the first time and trying not to have it crack once its all tightened down?Now when you heated/molded your 3/16" how exactly did you accomplish this?I read in the thread that to use "clamps,I have four spring loaded ones but I think I need about 4 more??? to get the exact shape and form of the old window's?People may give you some sh!t but you have a great deal of knowledge if others will listen!! Now I will be making my own door window brackets to hold the Lexan/polycarbonate I think that 1/4" steel rod bent and welded to the form of the doors will be fine,just need to call S&W to get the right little brackets to connect the steel to the doors.What do you recommend for the front and rear windows to use as a sealant?? I was thinking of using 100% silicon,that dries firm but will flex with the chassis?Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate on my part,as this is the first time I have done anything of this level...
Kind Regards,
Jason


[QUOTE=Brian Baker;3817528]My opinion on 1/8" Lexan/polycarbonate for a windshield not being sufficient is for two reasons:
Working the 3/16" into a curved windshield was a bit of a pain in the ass, but the results are better (and safer) than 1/8". I used #10 polished stainless steel button head fasteners with a recessed hex and nylock nuts.

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by jts ocd-stang

Brian,
Hey I got a sheet of polycarbonate 4'x8' x 1/4"thick from a local company in Indianapolis,In.(Meyer Plastics)no shipping charges we went and picked it up, it is called "PALSUN" like you said there are many names to this stuff,this kind has a scratch resistant on one side.I have a box of 100 count Stainless Steel button head Torks #20 that are 6-32x3/4" from Camcar out of Decorah,IA.I was wanting to know if I should use a small washer/and lock washer/and a polylock nut?The polylock nut will have a washer and lock washer as well on the inside.I plan on like you suggested to drill the holes a tiny bit larger for body flex/climate/temp. changes?Do you think this is over kill or just doing it right the first time and trying not to have it crack once its all tightened down?Now when you heated/molded your 3/16" how exactly did you accomplish this?I read in the thread that to use "clamps,I have four spring loaded ones but I think I need about 4 more??? to get the exact shape and form of the old window's?People may give you some sh!t but you have a great deal of knowledge if others will listen!! Now I will be making my own door window brackets to hold the Lexan/polycarbonate I think that 1/4" steel rod bent and welded to the form of the doors will be fine,just need to call S&W to get the right little brackets to connect the steel to the doors.What do you recommend for the front and rear windows to use as a sealant?? I was thinking of using 100% silicon,that dries firm but will flex with the chassis?Any suggestions would be greatly appreciate on my part,as this is the first time I have done anything of this level...
Kind Regards,
Jason


QUOTE=Brian Baker; My opinion on 1/8" Lexan/polycarbonate for a windshield not being sufficient is for two reasons:
Working the 3/16" into a curved windshield was a bit of a pain in the ass, but the results are better (and safer) than 1/8". I used #10 polished stainless steel button head fasteners with a recessed hex and nylock nuts.

You copied my quote and made it look like I said something I didn't (LOL). People use the 1/8" stuff because it's easier to work with mostly (reread my whole post on that).

For my funny car, I used Nylock nuts with flat washers on the backside of the fiberglass to mount the windshield (see previous post as well for size and type screws). You may not need flat washers for a steel body, but they won't hurt. I didn't apply any heat to mine, I simply cut it very carefully and started in the middle of the roof and the doghouse, working my way outward to the A-pillars and down to the cowl last. Like anything else, measure twice and cut/drill once. Being it was the first time I tried this myself I was pleased with the results. I didn't run a sealer on mine, just painted the backside about 1" in from the edges gloss black to match the treatment painted on the body. Any bath-tub type caulk/sealer should work fine...you want something that is going to remain pliable after it cures so that it doesn't crack.

[jts ocd-stang]

Brian,
Great looks like I'm in great shape,with the math and placement of each I can get all the windows done with this one sheet!! Can't afford a F**ck up here.Thanks for all your help and suggestions,as It will work !!!! Sharing is a slow process at some points in life....
jts
PS. I will see ya this year at Norwalk....Thanks man

[Polar-Pontiac]

How much weight can you save by replacing all the glass on a 2nd gen firebird anybody know.

[73LeMans]

I was going to do 3 of the 5 windows on my 73 LeMans. (rear glass and rear side glass). That was going to save me 20 lbs. The rear glass isnt as heavy as I thought it would be. However, add in the door and the front glass (to cover your question of ALL glass) my educated guess says its would be at least another 25-30lbs. My glass is bigger than a F body so not sure how helpful this is but it will give you an idea.

[Johnny406]

Originally Posted by Polar-Pontiac

How much weight can you save by replacing all the glass on a 2nd gen firebird anybody know.

According to the clear 1 site, approximately 90lbs for the 2nd gen F-body, here is the link.


http://clearoneracing.com/index.php?...th=12_13_17_37

[Polar-Pontiac]

Originally Posted by Johnny406

According to the clear 1 site, approximately 90lbs for the 2nd gen F-body, here is the link.


http://clearoneracing.com/index.php?...th=12_13_17_37

Thanks Johnny .

[92GA]

Becareful on what you buy. I went to a plastic shop here in town because I was in a hurry and wanted to save some money. The first windshield I put in the 96 bird was terrible. The optics was so bad I just couldn't use it. Every thing was deformed. Must have been the angle. When I replaced it with a clearone windshield, it was ok. My buddy cut the old piece down for side windows for his car, still wouldn't do for me. That was a waisted 80.00 for me. I've had a clearone windshield in my car for 3 years now, and I'd do it again.

[roadrage david]

I bought the blemish windows from percy,s speedglass for my 68 bird 80% DISCOUNT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
there windows have beter clearer vision then normal windows!!!..