[rohrt]

This is only the 2nd time my car has been on the road in 15 years since the restoration.

First issue at hand is I don't have enough peddal travel to open the sencondaries all the way.

I converted from a 350 2bb car, so I got the F-4 bracket and a new 400 throttle cable from I don't know who. Everything seems tight with the cable I just don't have the travel when I put the peddal to the floor, to open it up all the way. I still have a 1/4 of the way to go. Was there a difference in the peddals them selves?

The only thing I can think to do it remove the peddal and bend it so I have more travel. Any one ever run into this?

[guccieng]

the problem is with the length of cable. you must pull more cable towards the carb; that will raise the pedal.

[rohrt]

Took a look at the setup again over my lunch hour. The arm on the carb has two holes for attaching the throttel cable.

The lower hole is closer to the firewall. The upper hole is about 1/4 inch more forward. I pulled the cable off and I see that I have only enough slack to reach that other hole in the carb throttle lever. I will change the position tonight and see if there is any improvment.

[rohrt]

Here is what I'm dealing with. Hopefully someone sees something I'm doing wrong.

Here is the setup at Rest.


Here is the setup with the cable pulled as far forward as it will go.


This is as far as it goes with the pedal to the floor. WTH!


This is the distance it should be going.


Here is the pedal under the dash.


This is the only spot I see that I could get more travel. If I shorten this spot the cable could come farther forward. Another I see is to bend the pedal or re-drill the pivot point at the car.

[ANDYA]

Did you try moving the cable to the other hole yet? What happened? Also, check under the gas pedal and make sure there is enough clearance for the pedal to go all the way down. Sometimes the carpet and the padding are too thick.

[rohrt]

If you look at the 4th pic down you will see that moving to the other hole would not work as its farther away from the pivot of the throttle blade.

Thinking about it last night I really question the pedal. I don’t recall if this was the one that came with the car or not. I still wonder if there is a difference in the 2lbb and 4lbb. I looked at a picture of the carb setup that another member sent me and it looks identical.

The only thing I can think to do to fix this is to bend the pedal farther away from the firewall.

[guccieng]

you might be left with pulling cable through the firewall and crimping a steel sleeve to it (or use a sleeve with a set screw) to shorten it for full pedal travel.

[RAIV-Z]

Make sure the gas pedal support "PY part number PYE12" going throught the firewall is not cracked. If it's still in good shape, you might need to bend the rod which attached to the throttle cable.

[rohrt]

RAIV-Z

Great advice. The plastic pivot point is brand new or at least not cracked. I will see about bending the rod where you indicated. I have a feeling i will break something if I do this in the car and getting the clip out on the other side looks like a royal PITA with the engine all in.

[Donovan]

Bend the pedal arm. They are flimsy and after years of flooring lose some of the travel. It's not a big deal to tweak it to fine tune. Your cable is in the right spot and as you can see the travel is there you just need the pedal to pull it.

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by rohrt

RAIV-Z

Great advice. The plastic pivot point is brand new or at least not cracked. I will see about bending the rod where you indicated. I have a feeling i will break something if I do this in the car and getting the clip out on the other side looks like a royal PITA with the engine all in.

I bent it on my 68 bird while it was in the car, the factory weld did break. I was able to remove the clip while the engine was in the car without much trouble.

Ed

[rohrt]

Maybe this is how they kept the 1hp per cubic inch ratio.

just kidding.

[mudbird]

I have run into this with my car before, a 350 ho originally and the stock cable did the same thing as yours as did the assortment from the junkyard. (this was a long time ago)

Mine is totally different (not much help for you) but bending the arm works but raises' the cable to much and it rubs on the housing of the cable.


I have a Lokar cable and a mighty demon carb that has a progressive linkage. I also run one of those big aluminum brackets that mounts on the carb studs with a moroso bushing style return spring. This is much smoother and gives me more travel but still not perfect and does not look stock.

Sorry I am not much help I never ran a quad on this car but you are not the only one that has run into this before.

[Cammer-6]

Ive bent many 68s while in the car
its a 2 handed process,push toward firewall with one hand,pull up with the other.

[rohrt]

UPDATE!

Finally get to go for a test drive after modifying the peddal. Lots more power now that the carb is opeining up, downside is I now have a fuel starvation problem. That is posted in the Street side.

I also noticed that the raised peddal is about equal with the break peddal now. So if I slide partialy off the gas and press the break down I can be pushing the gas peddal at the same time. Dam size 12 shoes! I guess I need to see if I can move the break out farther.

With everything I do it one step forward and two steps back. Suffering seems to be my lot in life.

[mudbird]

I ended up redoing mine a couple of weeks ago..
I re-welded the two rods together at more of an angle. The pedal does not stick up funny or anything and the action is smooth.
The secondary pump shot feels better now. I will race on sunday so I will see if it was really slowing the car down at all...

Just runs out of gas on the street ? Top of second gear?

I hear you man... worked on four of my piles on my 5 day's off....

Stick with it and work the stuff out, in the end it will make all the difference. If having a cool car was easy, everyone could have one!