[xgoater]

I did a search but couldn't find a thread for removing rust from the inside of a gas tank. I'm sure it has been discussed but I'll ask again.

I put this in the Lobby for lack of a better place. Mods can move it if desired.

I am cleaning a gas tank from a C1 Vette. It has been stored empty for at least 25 years. The inside looks pretty good, but there is some light rust scale. All I have done so far is clean the outside and rinse out the inside. The tank is in excellent condition. The tank does have baffles on each end, so that has to be considered as well.

My question is: What is the BEST way to get the inside really nice and clean?

1. Have a radiator shop boil it out?
2. Use CLR or LimeAway or similar product?
3. Use baking soda and water?
4. Use acetone? (Done that on another tank - not effective IMO)
5. Use RUSTECO? (Found that on the web - sounds great)
6. Other thoughts or suggestions?

The objective is to get it totally clean so there are no fuel problems from crap out of the tank.

Thanks!
Terry

[69goatboy]

I tried the POR fuel tank stuff. It well could have been operator error, but it yielded horrible results for me. Their coating peeled off (by itself) in large cobweb type strings. I ended up throwing the tank away and bought new. I've used other POR products without issue.

If it were me, I'd take it to a radiator shop.

[Stuart]

I'd take it to a radiator shop as well. I've cleaned gas tanks before, and decided it's one of those things I'd rather pay someone else to do.

[GT182]

Originally Posted by 69goatboy

If it were me, I'd take it to a radiator shop.

My sentiments exactly. And I don't think even they will be able to get all the rust out. Tho they might have something that will kill what rust is left behind. Remember, water gets into gas and will rust a tank's insides. It's just something we can't see but live with.

I've tried the tank coating crap in my Harley's tanks years ago. I forget the brand name but it was crap. Peeled off and looked like cobwebs in there too. But at least I was able to get it all out. So be warned.... it's not worth spending the money on it. And in a car gastank you can't tell if you get it all coated or not..... unless you use 2 gallons of it and drain all the excess out, without anything getting plugged up.

[rustedgoat]

You could a phosphoric acid solution. Is a reproduction tank an option on this car?

[Sirrotica]

If it were me I would use electrolysis and DIY it won't cost hardly anything and I believe it's going to do a better job than trying to coat it. Recently I used this process to clean the rust from a tool box and it takes some time but it works quite well, it loosened everybit of the rust and it fell right off. I left mine go for a little over 24 hours. I included some links to Youtube that shows how they accomplished it on motorcycle tanks but I see no reason it wouldn't work on a larger tank too, good luck.

[Bjorn]

make sure you have enough metal after its cleaned..did that once and after it was cleaned I had pinholes...best bet is to get a new tank if available...

[Kurt Zimmerman]

These guys do an awesome job-

http://www.gastankrenu.com/

We have one locally, he also sandblasts wheels and other parts cheap.

Kurt

[mike nixon]

I've used muratic acid on them before.

Sand blasting works well.

I'm not a fan of coating them because IME it comes loose more than it sticks.

MIke

[xgoater]

Interesting responses so far.

I initially was just going to get a repop tank but, after cleaning this one, I think it is way too good not to use. I will keep that as an option if I can't get the original cleaned satisfactorily at a reasonable cost. I just didn't want to spend that much for a new tank if I can clean this one for a fraction of the cost.

I should have mentioned that I do not want to use any coatings on the inside. I did a fair amount of research and I have heard as much bad as there is good about coatings.

I also looked at the electrolysis method. I understand that seems to work very well. But I have a phobia about electricity and water (don't ask!) and really don't want to do it that way. But I'm working on the phobia because that does seem to be one of the most effective and inexpensive ways to do this.

I really don't think I'll have any problem with pinholes unless I use a method that eats quite a bit of the metal away. The rust seems pretty light - not heavy and scaly - at least as much as I can see inside of the tank.

I was leaning towards the radiator shop boil out process if that really works.

Thanks guys!

Terry

[Sirrotica]

Electrolysis is done with a 12VDC battery charger no more worry than touching both terminals on your car battery at the same time. The only investment is the washing soda which is only a few dollars and of course a 12VDC charger if you don't already have one. After seeing the job it did of my severely rusted tool box it's the only way I'd even think about de-rusting a fuel tank. BTW if it makes you feel any better I reached right into the water while it was turned on and never felt anything at all. Perfectly safe as far as electrical shock. Electrolysis also only removes the rust and there is absolutely no parent metal removed from the part being cleaned.

The byproduct is a hydrogen foam on the surface and as long as the power is turned off when your messing with the tank I.E removing the anode etc. there is no chance of an arc it's perfectly safe.

[v869tr6]

I put a peice of 3/8" chain in and rolled it around to knock the rust loose.

[rod cole]

I have used the mag wheel cleaner that is acidic. We have it in gallon jugs for cleaning wire wheels and such. Just neutralize it really well and put in service as soon as possible.

[455firebird1969]

I used a kit from JC Whitney to repair a rusty gas tank from a 71 Chevy truck about 16 years ago...

The kit used a length of chain and some acid in the tank and rotate it until the rust was removed, then it got coated with a paint, it was like a plastic liner after it dried...

It worked good short term for sure, but I sold the truck within a half a year, so I dint know how it did long term...

The chain I used looked great when I was done...

[cdrookie]

like mike nixon said: muratic acid

only a couple bucks for a gallon to! my lemans had a rusted tank, looked pretty bad. got the eastwood sealer kit and it said to use muratic acid to clean it. to my suprise it looked fantastic after i let it do it's thing. i did the sealer thing afterwards cause i had it. it's been probably 8 years(maybe 9) and i've had no problems with it. just dropped the tank a few weeks ago and the sealant is still intact.