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#1
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Which OEM Electric Fans
I've been searching through the archives and can't seem to find and answer. I want to put electric fans on my '76 TA. I've read about the Lincoln Mark VIII fans but I'm not sure my electrical system will take them without major upgrades. Bart's 4th Gen set up on his Tempest looks promising and I've heard mentions of late B-Body fans being used.
Bottom Line: Which OEM (any manufacturer) twin fan set up comes closest to the dimensions of the 2nd Gen rad and will cool a 450 hp 400? Thanx, Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill Last edited by Murf'sDad; 09-17-2009 at 04:35 PM. |
#2
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I don't have my car fully sorted out yet but here is what I running. Dual 4th gen LT1 fans on a stock copper/brass 4 core radiator. I have the shroud mounted upside down from the 4th gen mounting and had to make a bracket for the top and bottom. Otherwise it fits the core size almost exactly. Each fan with a separate 30 am relay and fuse. Temp is controled by a single (for now) hypertech switch that turns on at 200 and off at 180. When I was breaking in the motor, it was 95 degrees in the garage and I kept the engine at 2300 rpms for 15 mins. Effectively, this is like driving at highway speeds with no forced air through the radiator. My car saw a high of 210 on the water and 240 for the oil during break in. Normal driving has water temps between 180-200 which indicates to me the fan switch is controlling the engine temp and if I wanted to run cooler, it would be just a matter of changing the temp switch.
Here is an older pic. I have since made a new bracket for the top which is much sturdier but I have not finished it yet.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#3
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The 4th-gen LS1 F-body fan shroud is 26" X 18".
This setup is an OEM replacement made by Dorman. DORMAN Part # 620634 - $156.89 at Rock Auto. |
#4
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Crap, that's a steal! I nealy paid that for my fans used. I keep forgeting about Rock Auto. I kinda' prefer the LT1 set up though due to the flow through vents although in the end, I don't think it would matter much either way.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#5
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Quote:
Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#6
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Quote:
Stewart
__________________
1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#7
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I have them both set to come on at the same time. I don't like the amp draw that is created by doing it this way so I will either go with my existing 200/180 switch and add a 180/160 for the primary fan or a progressive fan controller from SPal. I get the feeling that with two switches, my engine will be just going back and forth between 160-200 with the primary fan always running. That may make it hard to tune.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#8
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Quote:
I can't see your secondary fan coming on much. The primary fan should work the majority of the time unless you are having some other problems that keep the engine temp up. Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#9
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Forgive the stupid question, but is the reason for using the OEM-style fan because they have integral shrouds? Just curious......
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"GTO......Gas, Tires and Overdraft"! '70 GTO convertible, 434, 4-speed |
#10
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Quote:
Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters , Hydro-Boost 4-wheel discs, 4 Speed, 3.23 posi. “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#11
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Understood. I think I paid $45 each for two Imperial aftermarket fans, but without going into CFM capacity, I don't know if the price or effectiveness is comparable.
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"GTO......Gas, Tires and Overdraft"! '70 GTO convertible, 434, 4-speed |
#12
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Bart, how deep is that fan? Want to see if it will clear the accessories on my Firebird.
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"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
#13
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Mike,
The tip of the fan motors are 6" from the mounting face of the shroud. Right next to the motor the fan shrouds are 4" from the mounting face, tapering down to 3" at the outer diameter of the fan. Bart |
#14
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Thanks!
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"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
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