[transam_kahuna]

Do a google search for Brad penn oils...plenty of zinc...quality oil

[Father&Son73T/A]

Originally Posted by guccieng

it mentions "can be used", but makes no comparison to performance, which is what most of us are looking for.

Do you honsetly think a conventional oil can flow better at cold starts and protect better at high tempuratures than a high quality synthetic?,don't mean to be offensive but I am just getting that you don't believe synthetics are superior in every aspect to conventional oil.
Bottom line is you get what you pay for..

[Mirk]

I can settle this for everyone right here and now. Everyone check out this website:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

If you do a search through their UOA's (Used Oil Analysis) and VOA's (Virgin Oil Analysis) you will find that the following oil consistently test LOW for Zinc and Phosphorus additives.
Mobil 1
Valvoline VR1
Royal Purple

In fact the only oil that consistently seems to always test high is Shell Rotella.

Take this for instance: Valvoline advertises that their oil contains 1200ppm of Zinc and Phosphorus, however when their oil is tested it always contains 800 something PPM.

Supposedly a good oil should have somewhere between 1100 and 1300 PPM... Shell Rotella seems to always maintain this PPM rating when their oil is tested. The others do not. I am sold on Shell Rotella. If for nothing else, than the simple fact that Valvoline is lying to its customers.

[Mirk]

http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...n/welcome.html

Shell Rotella even offers their own oil analysis service to help you more accurately gauge your engines performance and wear.
Shell Rotella website even has a very good Q/A section where they answer all these questions about Synthetic Vs natural oils.
I think Shell Rotella Synthetic will be my choice of oil from now on. And its available at 95% of truck stops nation wide!

[giles]

FWIW, I rebuilt my '71 455HO two and a half years ago. First time the bottom end has been apart. I rebuilt it because the rear main seal was leaking so bad I could not drive it anywhere without a drip pan. When I pulled it apart the bearings, crank and cylinder walls looked good enough that I should have just popped in the new rear seal and buttoned her up. I have run either SAE 30 or diesel spec 15w-40 for as long as I can remember, probably back to the late 80s, and I believe I ran 10w-40 prior to that (per Owner's manual).
After the rebuild I broke it in with conventional 15w-40 and a can of EOS (you could still get it 2 years ago). After the first oil change, again with diesel spec 15w-40 I noticed some rocker arm chirping. I immediately changed to Mobil 1 15w-50 and a small bottle of GM cam break-in lube, as the Mobil 1 might be a tad low in zinc and phosphorous. I have run Mobil 1 ever since. It is quiet and oil consumption has been minimal, but I have not pulled apart other than to retorque the head bolts.

[68bird400HO]

I use Brad Penn Racing 10W-30.

Be careful with the Rotella. It used to have 1200ppm zinc but was reformulated a few years ago and I believe the zinc was lowered. The oil tests Mirk are referencing may be based on the old formula. There are several threads on PY here discussing this.

[Jack Gifford]

Brad-Penn 10W-30 in my '72 455HO engine.
Various grades of Brad-Penn in ALL my engines. I like non-synthetic #40 in my really antique vehicles, and in my blown-alky hemi.

[guccieng]

Originally Posted by Father&Son73T/A

Do you honsetly think a conventional oil can flow better at cold starts and protect better at high tempuratures than a high quality synthetic?,don't mean to be offensive but I am just getting that you don't believe synthetics are superior in every aspect to conventional oil.
Bottom line is you get what you pay for..

i'm not saying that at all. i am saying that modern synthetics aren't made for hydraulic flat tappet cams that most of us run; that's the area of performance i was referring to.

[Father&Son73T/A]

Originally Posted by giles

FWIW, I rebuilt my '71 455HO two and a half years ago. First time the bottom end has been apart. I rebuilt it because the rear main seal was leaking so bad I could not drive it anywhere without a drip pan. When I pulled it apart the bearings, crank and cylinder walls looked good enough that I should have just popped in the new rear seal and buttoned her up. I have run either SAE 30 or diesel spec 15w-40 for as long as I can remember, probably back to the late 80s, and I believe I ran 10w-40 prior to that (per Owner's manual).
After the rebuild I broke it in with conventional 15w-40 and a can of EOS (you could still get it 2 years ago). After the first oil change, again with diesel spec 15w-40 I noticed some rocker arm chirping. I immediately changed to Mobil 1 15w-50 and a small bottle of GM cam break-in lube, as the Mobil 1 might be a tad low in zinc and phosphorous. I have run Mobil 1 ever since. It is quiet and oil consumption has been minimal, but I have not pulled apart other than to retorque the head bolts.

Yes,as long as you run EOS or another ZDDP additive M1 is fine for a flat tappet ,after 2004 the ZDDP levels were lowered in ALL motor oil except racing oils that were not supposed to be used on the street.
The big three lobbied the motor oil companies to remove the higher levels of ZDDP because it was ruining their catalytic convertors before 100k miles,and they were liable to replace them,they decided it was the ZDDP levels doing this.
No one made this public becasue it was like a screw the flat tappet guys there isn't many left anyways
The lower levels were sufficient in roller cam engines made after 1986 from what I understand.
If RP is lying about levels lower than 1100-1300 ppm ZDDP than claimed in the email I posted,I can guarantee they're gonna hear about it,not just from me,many flat tappet owners have been using them because of their claim.
Amsoil is another that puts right in their as in HPP sufficient ZDDP amounts for flat tappets,may switch to them.

[70FormulaCA]

What do you guys think of the new oil that recently came out called
Musclecar Oil by Z-alt? It's supposedly for pre-1975 and addresses all the needs of older cars.

[Mirk]

Bobistheoilguy.com did not seem to have an oil test posted for it yet. Looks promising.

[SD73]

Originally Posted by Mirk

Bobistheoilguy.com did not seem to have an oil test posted for it yet. Looks promising.

That's a good website! It's been a few years since I was there so I poked around a bit for my favorite oil, Redline. Here's what I found for their 10w40 virgin oil analysis. I personally use the 5w40. Zinc levels still look good, I just wish it were cheaper.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1539713&page=1

Iron: 2
Tin: 3
Lead: 1
Chrom: 1
Alum: 2
Calcium: 2228
Mag: 56
Zinc: 1446
Phos: 1337
Moly: 677
Barium: 5
Sil: 19
Boron: 17
83.9
14.2
tbn: 8.6
Tan 2.51

And this link is for their analysis of Redline's 5w40. They really praise the ZDDP levels here.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1465711&page=1