[Ron]

Regardless of your decisions have fun and race safe.

[Fast Floridian]

I was making just over 600hp in 80 TA best 60 was 1.42 with slidelinks. A pro stocker told me t use morosso springs in the front cut 1/2 a coil to offset leaving unevenly. I installed the factory rear sway bar and trimed 1/2 inch on each side to fit it connects to the body and keeps the car straight and best of all it was free

[70 lucerne lemans]

Originally Posted by RST

Bars are welded to 6in plates that are weled to the rocker inside the car. Where do I find a good anti roll bar for a bird ? I will also take some pre load out of the slide a links as Ron H. talked about. Hope to see some of you guys at Norwalk. Thanks, Jim

What I was asking about are the "kicker" bars that angle down off the main hoop toward the center of the car,they should go through the floor and be welded to your subframe connectors.I think that keeps the car from twisting as much.Thats how mine are and it has never twisted like that even on a 1.30 60'.Also my side diagonal bars go all the way up by my foot very close to where the front subframe mounts are.

[Ron H]

The NHRA removed the rule about the D bars going through the floor to the subframe connectors.
More than twist, the whole body is rolling in his car.
Looking at the separation on the drivers rear, I bet the passenger side is not separated.

[wrench]

Originally Posted by Ron H

More than twist, the whole body is rolling in his car.
Looking at the separation on the drivers rear, I bet the passenger side is not separated.

I agree. Looks like the 8 point bar needs to be turned into a full cage to tighten up the unibody??? Might not need a swaybar after that? I know my Second Gen had sagged allot over the years and had gotten loose. Jim, if you make changes, please post new pics of the results. Good luck.

[RST]

Well I am going to start working on some changes on sunday evening when i get back into town. I will post some of the changes and how the worked. I will try to get a test run in before Norwalk. You guys have bin a big help.

Thanks again,
Jim

[RST]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

JIm- no one elsed asked so i will, what is the combo?

JOhn

67 Firebird
455 .30 over (462)
4 bolt studded mains (billet caps)
Ohio crankshaft
Crower Rods (6.625)
Ross Flat top pistons (ringlands moved down)
Tapper wall pins 13:1 compression
Kauffman 59 cc D-port heads (flow 330 @28")
Chromoly push rods
Racer brown / flat tappet cam .590 lift
1.65 harland sharp roller rockers
Victor 4500 Intake (port matched)
1050 dominator (nickerson performance)
400 trans (no brake)
4500 converter (dynamic)
12 bolt 3;73 grear ful spool
33 spline moser axles
29.5 / 10.5 - 15 hoosier drags
factory spring with slider link bars
best 60' 1.45
best et 10.47 @ 127 mph

[Ron H]

Sounds like a roller cam and a cage and you'll be in the nines.

[RST]

Originally Posted by Ron H

Sounds like a roller cam and a cage and you'll be in the nines.

I would like to see it close to 9.99 I will work for that next year. I just want to work for this year. First blast I almost crapped myself. I came from a 66 GTO running high 12 on a good day. Ron i looked at your sway bar , and it looks like a good set up.

Thanks for all the help you have given me.

Jim

[Ron H]

No worries, that is what this forum is form. I have received some invaluable help here.

[Brian Baker]

My old Discomobile (79 T/A) passed a 7.50 cert' by a Division 1 NHRA inspector back in 2003. It's cage was welded to plates welded to the floorpans and trunkpans. Nothing was passed through to the welded in subframe connectors. Coming from the main hoop, the inner "kickout" bars (as mentioned in an earlier text) that are commonly referred to in the rulebook as having to be connected to the subframe connectors were in fact connected to the driveshaft hump. I had the topmost rearward bars coming off the main hoop and passing through the speaker holes in the package tray to the trunk, where they were welded to plates that were placed just above the rearmost shackle mount for the leaf springs. I also had crossed bars forming an "X" coming off the top of the main hoop and welded to plates on the top of the trunk pan, through and just behind the rear seat divider, as close to the top mount for the shocks as possible. With the main hoop not being too far from where the front of the leaf springs mounted, I thought it was a pretty thorough (and stiffening) cage. Jack Gaydosh did all of the work and did a fantastic job. I drove the car home from his garage, across the Key bridge, and it rode like a buckboard the whole way (LOL).

I had the original WS6 coil springs up front with one coil removed to get the ride height correct after taking weight off the car. Summit 3-way "el cheapo" shocks were up front. Landrum 250 lb. 5 leafs were out back with QA1 12-way adjustable shocks and Cal-Tracs. The car launched level every time. The few times it wouldn't launch straight were corrected with a preload adjustment on the Cal-Tracs (adding or taking out depending on which way the car would drift after the front end settled down). Race weight was 3850 with me on board...60 foots were in the mid 1.4's leaving on the bottle.

After comparing the Slide-a-links to the Cal-Tracs, I just don't like them. Seeing a pair fold up like a cheap accordian under a '68 Nova with smallblock power affirmed my original opinion of them...which is to say, it is my OPINION. I know others have run them successfully...I'm just stating my opinion of them.

[Ron H]

I have no doubt in my mind that the Cal Tracs are a better set up.
But I have slide a links, purchased used but nearly new for 150.00, and am not about to pay for Cal Tracs. Unless they fold up like I have been hearing they will for 4 years. I have had many 1.38 60's without issues. It's possible the cars with issues had them set up incorrectly or in fact something else failed. I can't see the rearend moving enough to allow them to fold, that would be alot of spring movement if so. But hey, that is my OPINION. I have seen pics of them as well.

I agree that he could make some adjustments and find a more even/level launch. Just takes trial and error of moving things around. A cage makes a big difference on an F body over a roll bar.

[triathlonx13]

Originally Posted by Ron H

Try removing the pre load.
With you or your weight in the car and everything else as it would be at a race. Set the slide a links with a dime gap.

You have a roll bar I assume? Subframe connectors?
Adjustable shocks?
What front springs?
Travel limiters?

I'm just getting to the point where I'm going to be putting my Slide-A-Link bars on. It's all ready - I just need to install the bars. Currently my car squats lower on the passenger side. (see pics. One pic shows approximate ride height without load and the other two pics I think you will be able to see the amount of un equal flex.) The pics are without the Slide-A-Link bars.

What is your suggestion for an initial set up on my bars?

Thanks.



.

[Ron H]

As the instructions say. Set them up with you in the car and the car at race weight.
Try them with a dime gap on each side.
The pass side squat is caused by body roll and the passenger wheel lifting into the car from the force on the rearend.

[triathlonx13]

OK - Sounds like a plan.

Thanks for the reply. Hopefully I can try them out before Englishtown, NJ (Oct.. 25th)


.