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#1
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Working on my 1970 GTO. This car is pretty much all new from the paint, to the wiring harnesses, to the ground straps, battery cables, battery (Optima style NAPA), and a special high torque rebuild of the original starter.. dreaded hot start issues.
Finally threw in the towel on the OEM starter and bought a RobbMc starter. Wired it up with a Ford remote solenoid to use as a relay for the "S" wire only, and as a wire junction to ease starter installation. Adjusted to spec, and voila' this 473 starts like never before. If you're tired of wondering if it will start, you need this starter. I couldn't be happier with the product and customer service. -Matt
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____________________________________ "I work in high speed aluminum tubing." |
#2
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Yeah, it is so nice to be able to confidently start the car. Nothing more embarrassing than having the car tick, tick, tick or not start at all when you have hot start issues (this usually happens when you have an audience admiring your ride). I love my RobbMC starter. Didn't think I need to wire up the Ford solenoid though - is there a benefit to that with this starter?
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1967 GTO Tyrol Blue/Blk Cordova 400, TKO-600, 8.2 Posi w/3.55 400 + .020, decked to .005 SD Performance 240+CFM 670 heads RARE HO/RA manifolds RARE 2.5" Exhaust (18" Magnaflows) SD "Stump Puller" HR cam (230/236, 112LSA, 107.5 ICL) PRW stainless 1.52 roller rockers Forged TRW slugs SCAT H-Beam forged rods |
#3
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I think the benefit is that you can minimize the ignition resistance problems associated with old wiring harnesses by not requiring the ignition wire to carry as much load. My old starter had the dreaded click, but the engine did not necessarily have to be hot for it to act up. So when I rebuilt the engine I bought a mini-starter. I worked well until the heat of summer kicked in, then I got the "click". I put on a Ford solenoid and it has not missed turning over once. I may have been putting a band aid on the root cause, but I do not feel like spending the money and time right now to replace the 43 year old wiring harness.
Doug |
#4
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Same experience here. My battery is in the trunk and after going through every battery up through 900cca, I put in the RobbMc starter and now can start the car, anywhere, anytime. Nothing phases it and now I installed a much smaller 650cca battery out of one of my other cars. You can't tell the smaller battery is in the car as it cranks over just as fast.
I used a Ford solenoid as well as I don't like the cable running under the header to the starter to be energized at all times. The instructions for the starter defeat this feature so I called Robb on it and he didn't recommend the way I wired my solenoid. I left it the way I wanted it and have not had any problems so far but Robb says sometimes the drive won't disengage the way I have have it wired.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#5
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That is a good point about the wire being hot the whole time. That also brings up the point about the hot unprotected ignition wires. I had a starter switch fail on my Mustang a few years ago and the maine wiring harness was burned up. I have installed fusing to help protect the starter circuit on the Mustang and Pointiac.
Doug |
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