[2SlowTA]

Ok, I need an entire ignition system and fuel system. I can't run a mechanical fuel pump because it interferes with my accessory drive system. Using a custom made fuel cell with sump that had to be made to clear my 4-link set up. I do plan to go ahead and use a return line in case I do more upgrading down the road, I don't want to have to redo either of these setups, other than perhaps some tuning on the ignition side of things.

Engine is carb'd 462, NA, 10:1 hoping for ~500hp/500ft-lb torque.

Both of these 2 are areas that I don't have a lot of experience in. So I am needing some experienced opinions. I know I see a lot of MSD 6A boxes out there, but really don't have a clue what way to go. Also, for the fuel lines, ok to just run braided stainless or do I need hard lines?

Thanks for the help.

[2SlowTA]

Did I leave out some critical info? Let me know if there is something you need that is missing.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by 2SlowTA

Did I leave out some critical info? Let me know if there is something you need that is missing.

What are you planning to build?

For the street and fairly serious performance usage, factory HEI is hard to beat for ignition. Fully self contained and only needs one battery wire. It does have a plug-in for a tach lead.

MSD is nice with all the different plug and play components they have, if you're looking at serious drag racing.

Favorite electric fuel pumps always opens a can of worms. I've had great service with Holleys E-pumps and regulators, but some don't like the noise.

1/2" aluminum, for fuel supply line, is another one of my favorites. What you need depends on what you're tying to do and what kind of pump/regulator/return set up you use. The factory pumps and 3/8 lines are good enough for some really fast street cars.

Anyhow, what you got and whats your plan?

[Schurkey]

500 horsepower needs ~50 gallons per hour at the carb inlet; and at the pressure the carb requires.

Not too difficult for a "pusher" electric pump.

I'd at least try using 3/8 fuel tubing and a cheap deadhead regulator; if your pump throws ~14 psi you'll have plenty of fuel through a 3/8 tube; and then you regulate downward somewhere near the carb.

Mount a fuel pressure gauge where you can see it from the driver's seat--and spend some time at WFO/Max RPM. If you still have fuel pressure--you're set; and you haven't spent much money either.

[2SlowTA]

So would something like the Barry Grant BG220HR be a good choice for the pump? It comes with the "separate diaphragm bypass that mounts at the carburetor to return unneeded fuel to the cell allowing the pump to operate at cooler temperatures."

And it requires a 10 AN line, is that ok?

This is a street drive car, that's why I posted here instead of the 'race' section, I don't want a limited use 'drag' only style pump.

[Schurkey]

The BG 220HR pump 'n' regulator is $250 at Jegs.

It's going to supply four times as much fuel as your engine could burn at WOT and max RPM.

I have no doubt that it's a quality pump; may last forever. Personally, I wouldn't (and didn't) spend that much money. Your choice, of course.

You don't need two runs of -10 fuel plumbing for 500 horsepower. Another expense you could do without. Far as I'm concerned, 500 hp doesn't require 1/2" plumbing (-8 AN is nominally 1/2") if used with a dead-head regulator. A return-style regulator is going to need huger plumbing, and two runs of it, of course.

Much as I hate the noise; there's a Holley Blue ($135 now, about $70 when I bought it) under my car; admittedly I'm not at your horsepower level and probably never will be--but I'm confident that the pump would work just as well for you as it does for me. (But, yes, the noise is HATEFUL and no amount of rubber insulation will get rid of it. My pump is mounted on a separate plate supported by two rubber-strap muffler hangers! The noise seems to be transmitted through the fuel tubing rather than directly from the pump itself.) Stock 3/8 fuel supply; deadhead regulator so no return plumbing. Simple, easy, cheap, effective, noisy.

[65gto69]

I have an ignition setup for sale on EBAY right now. Barely used, all parts were new when I purchased. The only thing you would need would be wires, but I may have a set the I will throw in, have to look.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

Thanks,
Mark

[screamingchief]

I personally stay away from the BG pumps.

There is about a million ways to do this,some better than others.

I personally like pumps with an external return on them,reduces the plumbing requirements somewhat,and simplifies things nicely,but these are'nt always the quietest set-ups either.

But that said running a bit higher pressure up to the regulator does help prevent the potential of fuel "stalling" in the lines under high G acceleration forces.

It's easy to set those sorta systems up with a deadhead regulator,and then use a small jet/pill "bleed" on the high pressure side just before the reg to bypass a small amount of fuel back to the cell under low consumption useage,and that set-up requires a much smaller return line back to the cell as it is not acting as the dedicated return.

That set-up helps stop "pressure creep" that is common with the deadhead regulator systems.

Pump,I'd probably use the magnafuel quickstar 300 pump #MP-4601.

Regulator,the big magnafuel 2 port #MP-9833 or the holley "big" regulator #12-704.

Add the bleed (magnafuel has these #MP-3110) or you can make your own outta any -3 to -6 AN fitting and a nitrous jet or such.

Use -12an from the cell to the pump (with a 100micron inline filter),-8an for the return from the pump to the cell,-10an from the pump to the reg (with a 40 micron inline filter minimum),then -6an from the reg to the carb,and use either -3an or -4an for the high side bleed line back to the cell.

That set-up would be way overkill for what you have now,but you would never need to upgrade that fuel system for anything short of a 1000+ hp useage.

Ignition,again there's a millon ways to do that too.

If I wanted a system that I'd never need to "upgrade",then this is what I would probably suggest:

If your gonna use an MSD box,get one of the newer digital boxes,the old analog boxes are old school tech,and they dont have some of the handy features the new digital boxes have,but they still do the trick if that's what you end up with.

Distributor,I usually gut an HEI and let the MSD box handle the spark duties,then I lock out the HEI advance mechanisms,if I then need an advance curve for some reason,well then I go ahead and use one of the MSD timing control boxes for that,and I always get a cap that uses an external coil,then all that's left is to get a decent coil that's compatiable with the MSD box.

Plug wires,I use the MSD 8.5mm super conductors or the taylor 10.5 thundervolts.

But as stated,a basic HEI can do much the same work for a whole lot less $$$ and wiring effort.

But I digress,I'm getting carried away here.

[2SlowTA]

Originally Posted by screamingchief

I'd probably use the magnafuel quickstar 300 pump #MP-4601.

Thanks for your answer - is that pump loud or not?

I really don't want to be listening to the thing.

[HWYSTR455]

I swear by the Holley HP150 pump, dead silent, reliable, and flows plenty. I agree with SC, go 1/2 inch lines and be done with it. You're doing it anyway, do it now, and you'll never have to worry about it again. With return. Run a bypass regulator, and tho many out there will do the job fine, my personal preference is Aeromotive, and the 13301 is a great one. If you're running a factory tank, don't worry about using 1/2 inch lines, because later you may upgrade the tank, and everything else will be in place.

On the ignition stuff, two things about running a factory HEI: One, the cap is big, and can limit the amount of room you have back there, can become a pain. Two, is if you run a aftermarket ignition, you can throw the whole one-wire hookup factor out the window. Another thing is that once you go factory HEI, you need to make sure the housing is good, the bearings and shaft are good, you end up going through the curve anyway, as well as the vacuum can, and you usually will do a divorced coil. Again, where's the whole one-wire argument?

I say the Accel Billet is an excellent choice, and the MSD ready to run the second. That, with a good E-core coil, and a digital-6 box, or Accel 300+, with the MSD super conductor wires, and you're good.


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