[pippintook]

I have an OEM Hurst shifter from a 78 Trans Am, 400 4spd with Super T10. I think the shifter is original. When it was in the car, it seemed to shift ok. I lubed it a few years ago. I thought it would be a good idea to rebuild the shifter...disassemble, clean, replace parts as required, etc.
.
I know there are guys/companies I can send the shifter to for a professional rebuild. I was hoping this was something I might be able to do it myself to save a few bucks.
.
Anyone ever done this ? What is involved in rebuilding a Hurst shifter? What should I look for when disassembling? Is this something your average weekender can do? Any special tools needed to disassemble/assemble ? Any special parts needed? Are parts available ? Where to get parts? Any other tips or advice is welcome.

-attaching pics show shifter condition

[Schoust]

I went down this road myself and ended up sending it to them for a rebuild the chrome and all.........

[Half-Inch Stud]

Think of the shifter "rebuild" as a cleaning & re-grease process.
Wear gloves.
Plan on using a cotton cloth and 0000 steel wool to clean every part inside the Stamped steel "U".

When all is clean, you should find a great appreciation for all the parts being worn-in-to-perfection, thus unworn, and worthy of re-grease & assy.
Assemble with wheel bearing grease.

My opinion is the "worn parts" are the Shift bushings at either end of the shift rods, the shift rods themselves, the HURST handle showing any pitting or cockpit scratch, and the Shift knob.

I've done 2 or 3 of the HURST Competition Plus, and find the internals to be of "Excellence". Perhpas that Warminster PA HURST had a darn=good metals-selector guy & heat treat facility...huh.

[69Customs]

I did as Half-Inch Stud did except I used white lithium grease. Its a lighter grease and lets parts move with a little more ease. Check bushings for wear and roundness. Not much to wear out. I believe they do sell a rebuild kit with bushings etc. You can see the kit parts and then know what to check for wear on it.

[Murf'sDad]

I decided not to take my shifter apart. I took a can of high pressure degreaser to it after it had a bath in the parts washer. All I took off was the bottom cover so I could spray the degreaser up into it. When I finished I sprayed it down with Jig-a-Loo (basically aerosol white lithium grease)a couple of times and let it sink in between the levers. Bolted back on the tranny and adjusted, I can shift the tranny by hand without the stick attached. It's smoother than it ever was from the factory.

FWIW, Stewart

[69goatboy]

If you end needing to send to someone to send it to for rebuild, send it to Pete Serio.

http://www.precisionpontiac.net/

What Cliff R. is to Q-jets, Pete is to Hurst shifters.

[455Darren]

I've rebuilt a few with good results. Sending out for a rebuild can be expensive and time consuming. Just take notes and pics as you disassemble. No special tools needed. Usually the factory units do not have the lever stops. I drilled and tapped to use those (fine thread 3/8" bolts with a lock nut). Install new rod bushings and clips. I use the metal bushings. Do not use wheel bearing grease, use the white lithium type. Installing the gate spring can be a pain, but the rest is easy. Should be able to find more info on the net.

[Jack Gifford]

Tip 1) the separator plates are not all the same thickness, so keep careful track of their positions as you disassemble the thing (at least in the Competition Plus units); and nobody (neither Mr. Gasket nor Pete Serio nor anyone else on these forums) will tell you which plate goes where [but- if you screw up, PM me]
Tip 2) photos of parts would show their condition; photos of grease gobs don't show parts condition
Tip 3) a film of grease is called for on mating parts; not gobs

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by 69Customs

... I believe they do sell a rebuild kit...

I'm not aware of any source of "inside" parts for the Hurst shifters- please enlighten us.

[GTOLou]

Ditto on the Pete Serio recc....