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Old 11-30-2008, 12:29 PM
llwta76 llwta76 is offline
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Default pulled intake manifold/what's this?

Looked into head ports and all the intake valves that were closed had a puddle of oil lying on the valve heads(perhaps a thimble full each). The valve stems are all nice and clean but the valve heads have a relatively thin coat of black stuff. The PCV line(plugged into base of Holley) put out about a penny or nickel sized puddle of oil while lying on the valley pan. The oil on the valves also smells like gas(probably a mix). I haven't run this engine in one month and has 2000 mi. on the rebuild. Should I be concerned ? Please give me helpful thoughts or comments. thanks , Larry

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Old 11-30-2008, 12:52 PM
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67 Lamnas 67 Lamnas is offline
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Is your PCV location non-baffled? If it is non-baffled, maybe you're pulling an oil mist into the plenum area?? If your location is baffled, possibly your intake to guide clearance is too loose and oil is getting sucked down through the guides. Of course this assumes your guide seals are intact and doing their job.

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Old 11-30-2008, 02:02 PM
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It;s just reforming there having been through your PVC. Do you have breathers on your valve covers? this might help reduce the misting and of course as 67lamnas says is your valley pan baffled?

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Old 11-30-2008, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llwta76 View Post
Should I be concerned ?
Only with how it got there, not the engine itself.
The PCV line shouldn't have had oil in it, done been mentioned above, but that would be the biggest contributor to the black.
The gas, after setting for awhile, the Holley probably has a slight leak. That mixed with with the oil/carbon residue is what puddled on the valves.

Fix the PCV.
Check the power valve in the Holley.
Intake gaskets can seep oil into intake ports, if the intakes not sealed and torqued down properly. Intake usually takes a few passes tightening down or you'll end up with a couple of not so tight bolts.

You didn't say why you was taking it apart.

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Old 11-30-2008, 04:37 PM
llwta76 llwta76 is offline
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First , the pvc is mounted in the fabbed alum.v.covers via a push in "look alike" breather on the pass. side . It has a baffled style grommet to help keep oil under control. The valley pan is a no PCV Kauffman aluminum one. There was no trace of oil in the plenum area of the RPM after pulling the carb neither. I'm considering returning to the oem valley pan in hopes of eliminating this prob. I have a billet style breather in the dr's side v.c. I'm mostly concerned that I will have to pull the heads a/c of bad guides/seals. In my previous thread I commented that I was concerned about my Comp. 995 valve springs , wondering if the machine shop took into account the smaller i.d. of the inner spring w/ reguards to the valve seals used and , whether or not they "knocked down" the cutting effect of the damper on the shims. I know they were in a hurry to do my heads ! Anyhow I,m thinking on removing a spring or two to look see. Also I wanted to try the Torker 11 I had setting around on my 440". I "shut down" the car last month for the season still w/ the full throttle "missing or popping" prob. unsolved.( A new hi press. elect pump will be going in over the winter to eliminate prob.fuel del. issue.)

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Old 11-30-2008, 06:04 PM
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Arrow Oil smells of gas...........

I would check your dipstick for an overfilled oil pan, caused by a ruptured fuel pump diaphram or a leaking carb.

Les

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Old 11-30-2008, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llwta76 View Post
First , the pvc is mounted in the fabbed alum.v.covers via a push in "look alike" breather on the pass. side . It has a baffled style grommet to help keep oil under control. The valley pan is a no PCV Kauffman aluminum one. There was no trace of oil in the plenum area of the RPM after pulling the carb neither. I'm considering returning to the oem valley pan in hopes of eliminating this prob. I have a billet style breather in the dr's side v.c. I'm mostly concerned that I will have to pull the heads a/c of bad guides/seals. In my previous thread I commented that I was concerned about my Comp. 995 valve springs , wondering if the machine shop took into account the smaller i.d. of the inner spring w/ reguards to the valve seals used and , whether or not they "knocked down" the cutting effect of the damper on the shims. I know they were in a hurry to do my heads ! Anyhow I,m thinking on removing a spring or two to look see. Also I wanted to try the Torker 11 I had setting around on my 440". I "shut down" the car last month for the season still w/ the full throttle "missing or popping" prob. unsolved.( A new hi press. elect pump will be going in over the winter to eliminate prob.fuel del. issue.)
Instead of pulling the heads (which you may have to do anyways), why dont you pull a couple of intake keepers/retainers off of some of the intakes valves that had some puddling....?

If the seals are intact...it could be the guides.......if they aren't, then maybe some different springs or seals??

I've had some ill-fitting guide boss seals ride up on the valve stems while the engine ran...no idea how long they were like that, but didn't discover til I took it apart to inspect.

Sometimes with dual springs, you can shine in with a small flashlight, but if there's a damper, you probably won't be able to see......

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