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#1
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water pumps
i need a new water pump (mine whines alot) are the ones at the autoparts store any good? or should i try to find a used original ? also i want to go to a electric fan , i heard the ones from a Lincoln Mark VIII are a good choice any info on that?
thank you
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1963 grand prix , 1966 389, 325hp, auto |
#2
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Modern pumps are fine, as long as you buy a NEW one and NOT a reman. There's the common misconception that a cast impeller is necessary, and the stamped ones are inferior. This is not the case. We sell ASC pumps. All new parts, never had a problem with one. They offer both the correct one for your '68 (WP-381) and the "long" style for '69-newer (WP-411). These are made in USA and are excellent quality.
Trying a "used" pump is unacceptable. Unless it's only been off the donor car for a few days, it WILL fail. Jim |
#3
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The Lincoln Mark VIII fans are very good; they have 2 speeds and you should wire them through a relay. I have one on my 79 T/A and I rarely need the high speed except on the hottest days with a lot of stop and go driving. Only downside is current draw; your electrical system needs to be spot on; I did convert my stock alt. to 100 amp.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#4
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"Only downside is current draw; your electrical system needs to be spot on; I did convert my stock alt. to 100 amp."
I think I also need to try a 100 amp alternator. At night, when I click on my electric fan, my headlights dim noticeably. Did you have to update any wiring or anything else, or is that just an easy bolt-on? |
#5
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Nevada, I did not change out any of the factory wiring. However, I did make sure that the headlight ground wire terminals were clean and properly bolted to the body. I also added 2 more ground wires from the block to the frame and body. Before doing these things the voltage would drop off when I cut on the headlights. As far as the alt. goes, I just installed one of the kits, I think it was from Jegs, to get it up to par.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#6
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Thanks for the info. Overall, my wiring's a mess, and I should probably start over from scratch one of these years, but I'll try your advice in the mean time. Thanks.
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#7
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ok only NEW pumps no remans , there's only a $10 difference anyways . o and thanks for the info on the fan i might have to get one. thanks
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1963 grand prix , 1966 389, 325hp, auto |
#8
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Regarding the fan, another option is getting a variable speed controller, so you have a softer start and rarely run the 15-37A that those fans pull (87A on start, but only for a moment).
Another option is the Taurus fan, which is also quite strong, but a bit smaller.
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How many of you have driven over 340? |
#9
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I have been using a Mark VIII fan for several years. Mine is a single speed (some, but not all are 2 speed) It works great but does use a lot of amps (I have a 100+ amp alternator) and requires a large relay, larger than the 30/40 amp relays that are commonly available. I am using a 70 amp relay on mine.
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