Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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Old 08-11-2008, 02:20 PM
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Default Started new build

I have a respectable build finally after 25 years. Things went pretty well started right up ran cool, not rich or lean thank to Cliff R. Ran at 180 deg for 20 minutes’ I do have some questions on the fuel reg. I set it at 6 psi then after starting it goes down to 3 psi. Is this normal? Also even though I have an external solenoid I STILL got heat soak. I think the wire I used to jump the started solenoid might be too small. Positive wire coming from the started is welding wire but is close to the header. Any thoughts?

What a morning


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69 400 Block, .030 over, KRE eagle stroker kt, KRE,CNC ported e-heads 310 cfm, port match RPM , comp roller 236/245@.05 586/600 lift 110 LS. 1.5 HS roller rockers, 350 Transmission, Red Neck tight 3500 stall converter, Ford 9” with 3.75’s, Strange center section, Moser 31spline axels, 29”Mt slicks, HRPARTSNSTUff anti roll system, Doug’s Headers 3.5” collectors, 22”Dynomax mufflers w/ H-pipe, Cliffs Q-jet, Fuel cell with sumps, Mallory 140 fuel pump and filter. Denny’s 3.5” drive shaft.

Last edited by 70 Lemans; 08-11-2008 at 02:43 PM.
  #2  
Old 08-11-2008, 02:35 PM
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quicksilver97ta quicksilver97ta is offline
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Congrats as it sounds like things went very smoothly If you got heat soak in the starter/solenoid after the 20 minute break-in proceedure it's more than likely not going to be near as bad under normal driving conditions. When the car is actually going down the road there is alot more air circulating around the exhaust and starter that way.

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Old 08-11-2008, 06:48 PM
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The ground side of the starter deal is more important than the positive side!

You can run a 00 gauge positive side cable and easily ruin that by using a cheap 4 or 6 gauge ground cable.

Electrons flow from negative to positive,this is why ground path problems are the number one electrical malady these systems face,often the ground side is taken for granted.

So make sure you have a solid ground path for the engine.

As for the regulator,if it is a liquid filled gauge,drain the fluid or replace it with a non-liquid filled gauge and the readings will be more reliable,the fluid in those gauges causes all sorts of issues like you describe.


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Old 08-11-2008, 06:58 PM
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chief,

Thanks for the info,


You hit the nail on the head with the grounds. A buddy of mine was at the tail pipe area an seen a spark where the tail pipe was making contact with the frame.

Frame has been painted and I will admit I didn't clean the paint off the grounds very well.

Hows she sound? I think nice. I was thinking of having my OEM starter turned into a Hi Tq from a local shop. Should I go this route? The starter that i'm using is from my old 350. Money is very tight!

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69 400 Block, .030 over, KRE eagle stroker kt, KRE,CNC ported e-heads 310 cfm, port match RPM , comp roller 236/245@.05 586/600 lift 110 LS. 1.5 HS roller rockers, 350 Transmission, Red Neck tight 3500 stall converter, Ford 9” with 3.75’s, Strange center section, Moser 31spline axels, 29”Mt slicks, HRPARTSNSTUff anti roll system, Doug’s Headers 3.5” collectors, 22”Dynomax mufflers w/ H-pipe, Cliffs Q-jet, Fuel cell with sumps, Mallory 140 fuel pump and filter. Denny’s 3.5” drive shaft.

Last edited by 70 Lemans; 08-11-2008 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:08 PM
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It is best to set your fuel pressure while the engine is running.

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Old 08-11-2008, 07:15 PM
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RonH,

That's what I needed to know.

Oh what a nice feeling when things go good. I'm flyin high as everyone knows.

Thanks everyone for your help. Engine has been built for 2 years. Now the psi is almost off me. Now serious body work begins.

I've post this combo before but what the hey. lol

Combo, I've been told this should put me in the 11.5 et and that was my intended build.

69 400 Block, billet mains, .030 over, KRE eagle stroker kit, KRE,CNC ported e-heads 305 310 cfm, port match RPM intake, comp cam Hydraulic roller 236/246@.05 585/600 lift 110 LS. 1.5 HS roller rockers, butler true roller timing chain, butler valley pan, 350 Transmission, Red Neck tight 3500 stall converter, Ford 9” with 3.75’s, Strange aluminum center section, Moser 31spline axels, 29”Mt slicks, large ford 11” brakes, HRPARTSNSTUff anti roll system, Doug’s Headers 3.5” collectors, 22” Welded Dynomax mufflers w/ H-pipe, Cliffs Q-jet, Fuel cell with sumps, Mallory 140 fuel pump and filter. Denny’s 3.5” drive shaft. Polygraphite bushing all around. New Suspension.

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69 400 Block, .030 over, KRE eagle stroker kt, KRE,CNC ported e-heads 310 cfm, port match RPM , comp roller 236/245@.05 586/600 lift 110 LS. 1.5 HS roller rockers, 350 Transmission, Red Neck tight 3500 stall converter, Ford 9” with 3.75’s, Strange center section, Moser 31spline axels, 29”Mt slicks, HRPARTSNSTUff anti roll system, Doug’s Headers 3.5” collectors, 22”Dynomax mufflers w/ H-pipe, Cliffs Q-jet, Fuel cell with sumps, Mallory 140 fuel pump and filter. Denny’s 3.5” drive shaft.
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:31 PM
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Sounds nice,the first noises from a fresh build are always tense moments though.

Tuning and few miles and they "settle in" and get to sounding even better yet!

As for the starter deal,I know what your saying about budgets and such,if the outfit makes a good product,by all means give 'em a shot,there's a starter/alternator place down here that I swear by,I wont even consider a parts store rebuild starter or alternator for my own cars,been this way for many years,that place gets all my work!

On the ground thing,more than once I've had to show folks the difference a good ground can make,the old school mechanics "diagnostic check" for that is to take a large wrench and find a spot on the engine and the frame to ground the wrench across,and if the starter cranks significantly better,it's pretty clear the ground path is weak,and using the wrench as an added ground temporarily fixed that.


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Old 08-11-2008, 08:01 PM
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Chief,

old school mechanics "diagnostic check" I will remember that one.

Thanks.

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69 400 Block, .030 over, KRE eagle stroker kt, KRE,CNC ported e-heads 310 cfm, port match RPM , comp roller 236/245@.05 586/600 lift 110 LS. 1.5 HS roller rockers, 350 Transmission, Red Neck tight 3500 stall converter, Ford 9” with 3.75’s, Strange center section, Moser 31spline axels, 29”Mt slicks, HRPARTSNSTUff anti roll system, Doug’s Headers 3.5” collectors, 22”Dynomax mufflers w/ H-pipe, Cliffs Q-jet, Fuel cell with sumps, Mallory 140 fuel pump and filter. Denny’s 3.5” drive shaft.
  #9  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by screamingchief View Post
Sounds nice,the first noises from a fresh build are always tense moments though.

Tuning and few miles and they "settle in" and get to sounding even better yet!

As for the starter deal,I know what your saying about budgets and such,if the outfit makes a good product,by all means give 'em a shot,there's a starter/alternator place down here that I swear by,I wont even consider a parts store rebuild starter or alternator for my own cars,been this way for many years,that place gets all my work!

On the ground thing,more than once I've had to show folks the difference a good ground can make,the old school mechanics "diagnostic check" for that is to take a large wrench and find a spot on the engine and the frame to ground the wrench across,and if the starter cranks significantly better,it's pretty clear the ground path is weak,and using the wrench as an added ground temporarily fixed that.


Always full of sound advice and good ideas.

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