[TheLastNorell]

I have read on this forum and a few others that a locker is a real pain to drive on the street. Which characteristics exactly make them such a pain? I would really like to get one of those power traxs Lock Right lockers due to how cheap and easy they are to buy and install, ie I'm broke
I was looking at these in particular to remedy my 10 bolt 8.2 open diff <http://www.jegs.com/p/Powertrax/745940/10002/-1/10151>

[stimpy]

the detroit locker I had in my 9 inch in my firebird made a clicking noise when I went around a corner and if i put power to it before making the turn it would wallow/hop thru the turn as the wheels where locked together and sometimes the unit wouldn't unlock in wet weather causing the car to drift to the shoulder of the road and make it hard to steer .

[TheLastNorell]

I can deal with a few adverse effects, but i have heard that a locker will change lanes for you unexpectedly.

[krisr]

Haven't had experience with detroits, but every spooled car i've driven has been great - if my 9" plays up again i'm going to be swapping the LSD out for a spooled open centre. They don't change lanes or "swap ends" on command, they are a point and shoot sorta deal. Only issue i've heard through rumour is reverse parking and breaking axles, but if that happens you know the axle was going to toast itself shortly anyway!

[boater bill]

One problem with a powertrax is that is really for 4X4's with bigger tires. Our street tires will not load up the side gears to get it to release in turns all of the time.
I say run it and be VERY careful in the rain and turns until you get used to it. They do click loudly also, which I think is cool but others find to be a problem.

Good luck

[chuckmnv]

I put one in my 72 8.2, 2.73, some years ago. Yes, they are noisy -- until they wear in, then they quiet down some. They can be exciting in wet weather as they try to get traction from side to side. A lot of folks have told me I have a rear end problem when they hear the clicking. I just tell them it's supposed to sound that way. I have also had some other exciting sounds when I go around corners at times; there'll be a loud, scary-sounding clunk as the dog teeth find their mesh. All in all, tho, it will make both tires spin! And, it was cheaper than a total rebuild. I'm looking to put in a Bowtie rear end in with a posi and probably 3.08 gears for a little better off-the-line performance while still maintaining some fuel mileage. I may move the locker over to my 70 with 3.08 gears. It's supposed to be the "hotrod."
cm

[bdrac]

i've had a detroit soft locker for 15 years or so . it clicks but not too loud due to the finer teeth versus a regular locker. its been raced regularly the whole time no issues.

[BILTIT]

I run a powertrax in the front of my 4x4, i am impressed with it so far. It is noisy but its cheap. Its in a 10 bolt and i am going to a D60 so i have had the thought of putting it in my cars 10 bolt and try it out. Not sure how loud it would be back there.

[triathlonx13]

I have a D60 with a detroit locker... I can't hear any clicking 3" exhaust / 461 stroker @ 13.25 compression Never heard of anyone breaking them?

[Old Man Taylor]

The locker is not a problem on the street. The problem you have to watch out for is if/when you break an axle. The car will make a VERY sharp turn to the same side that had the axle break. It happened to a friend of mine at the track. The left axle broke and he made an immediate turn into the left lane. Fortunately he started in the right lane. If he had been in the left lane when it happened he would have hit the guard rail.

[BILTIT]

hmm, good point.

[triathlonx13]

Originally Posted by Old Man Taylor

The locker is not a problem on the street. The problem you have to watch out for is if/when you break an axle. The car will make a VERY sharp turn to the same side that had the axle break. It happened to a friend of mine at the track. The left axle broke and he made an immediate turn into the left lane. Fortunately he started in the right lane. If he had been in the left lane when it happened he would have hit the guard rail.

Question: how is that different then any other posi rear-end???

,

[Old Man Taylor]

Originally Posted by triathlonx13

Question: how is that different then any other posi rear-end???

,

The posi rear end is not a direct mechanical connection and the drive wheel cannot apply all of the engines power if the other side cannot take any power at all. As I recall even the strong posi's have a breakaway force of something like 800 pounds at the tire.

[TheLastNorell]

Originally Posted by Old Man Taylor

The locker is not a problem on the street. The problem you have to watch out for is if/when you break an axle. The car will make a VERY sharp turn to the same side that had the axle break. It happened to a friend of mine at the track. The left axle broke and he made an immediate turn into the left lane. Fortunately he started in the right lane. If he had been in the left lane when it happened he would have hit the guard rail.

Do you guys think 300 odd horsepower will do that? Ive seen a car snap the rear axle at MIR and it didn't look fun.

[Old Man Taylor]

If you have enough power to be worried about the strength of the axles, then upgrade the axles. If you have 300 HP at the engine it should not be a problem unless you have slicks and launch with a stick shift or a trans brake.

[Pontirag]

It can be a bit of a hand full on turns in the snow/ice and on wet streets. Another important point (or two) is that you must absolutly maintain as close as possible equal tire pressure. Like within 2 psi or less, much less. Nascar maintains tire pressure to within fractions of a pound so its not entirely impossible.

other point is the physical dimentions of your tires. Once you have established the matching tire pressure then take a Tailors tape measure, the cloth flexible ones, and measure the diameter of BOTH tires. You may be surprised or even shocked at the difference in diameter. You may get away with equalising tire diameter by varying tire pressure but only to a point (2 psi) and to the detriment of othe nessessarry handling qualities. If you go this rout be prepared to accept certain limitations brought about by the compramise. You might limit this problem somewhat by measuring tire diameter before they are mounted to choose two that are as close as possible. But then when you mount them you measure them again to get the real picture, Its a tradeoff with compromises.

Also weigh the tires to get sets within a similar weigh range. You dont care if they are heavy or lite but within a similar range of weight values.

Another option , once you have the tires mounted, dont bother balancing them yet because some racers shave the bigger tire down to the diameter of the smaller tire. YIKES! Wait until you see how much rubber can come off your brand new tires just to equalise the diameter. At this point you are a serious racer and thousands of dollars worth of rubber on the shop floor does not make you cringe... too much.

Finally if your NASCAR BOUND you get the best tires almost custom/hand made to your specs in such a large volume that you cane evaluate all of these characteristics and select sets that have a complimentary combination of characteristics you desire. you have enough tire and track data in your computer that you cane select tires fro a givin set of conditions for a given track. At this point you are not just leaning out too far over the "Leading Edge" but have fallin over into the precipice.

So what to do:

Get a shop that will work with you. Some times its better to pay top dollar for service that get the cheapest tire deal. Tire busters will think you are crazy unless you actually pass on to them information about your obsesive compulsive behaviour. Once you have taught them something interesting and usefull they will go all out for you. Tip them well when your done cause you will be back.

Select several tires that have the same uninflated diameter and weight as your "standard" tire has. Normally you dont start with a standard tire, you get a picture of what is available off the racks and choose two or four that are closest in characteristics. then choose the one that others are then matched to.

Mount them and get the two or set of four that have the closest similar diameter when inflated to the same PSI.

Vary the pressure (2 psi)as needed to get them as close as possible in diameter

then go to lunch while the tire guy shaves them all to the correct (same) diameter.

Note the tire pressure needed to maintain each tire to the same diameter as the rest.

Balance your tires

Burn off the rest of the unshaved rubber leaving the tire shop.

and what about the spare?

[2SlowTA]

I run a detroit locker in my 78 TA and in my daily driver truck. They are no problem whatsoever to drive on the street, once you get used to it, you dont really notice. I think half the "dont use on the street" crap comes from people who have never actually even had one.

[Tom Vaught]

If you have a "Soft locker" Detroit Locker 9" rear, there will be no issues on the street.

Tom V.

[gjn]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

If you have a "Soft locker" Detroit Locker 9" rear, there will be no issues on the street.

Tom V.

Tom,

I looked on Eaton's site and didn't see a soft locker. Is it the EZ Locker?

[Geoff]

There are two types PowerTrax rear axle centres: the Lock Right & the NoSlip.
I am pretty sure the Lock Right is not made for the BOP 8.2" diff. The Chev 8.2" diff is different, even though they both have 28 splines.
The NoSlip is made for the BOP diff & I have had two of these. I am very pleased with the operation. They can be noisy for a few hundred miles, but that goes away. Occasionally, I get a click or clunk in/after a corner, but I can often go for weeks without hearing a sound.