[runningbwdog]

Over the weekend, I decided to replace the original T3 headlights in my 68 GTO with brighter Sylvania Halogen sealed beams.
When I went to attach the moulded connector/water shields, I discovered that the prongs on the new bulbs were about a 1/4 inch shorter than the T3s. I tried to find slip on extenders to no avail, so I ended up buying a package of spade connectors, cutting off the flat spade, wire wheeling off the coating down to the brass and soldering them onto the ends of the prongs on the new bulbs. So much for drop in replacement.
The new lights appear to be brighter, now all I have to do is adjust where they point.
Does anyone have an illustration of the headlight aiming pattern and measurements?
Thanks,
Mike

[David Jones]

I just split my connectors/shields so the halogens slid on easily. That was about 5 years ago. One day I'll rewire the front end and have M&H make the harness to fit halogens. The new bulbs make ALL the difference when you really drive one.

[runningbwdog]

David,
I could have trimmed the splash shield part of the connector, but I didn't want to butcher them. Adding the tabs gave me something to do before the Superbowl.
Drove the car back to its storage area in the early morning. Lights were noticeably brighter, but are aimed too low. They need to be raised to get the illumination further that 10 feet from the front of the car.
I'd like to put those high power blue headlights in it, but am afraid they would draw too much current and force me to rewire the whole lighting system.
Mike
Mike

[David Jones]

Mine definitely look like crap. But you can't see it and they have worked great for years.

[engineer]

procedure for head lamp aiming is in factory service manual. Deepending on which blue light bulbs you pick, some of those have the same wattage as the sealed beams, so no wiring \ alt. change is necessary.

[fyrebird68]

There is a brand of halogen that has longer prongs on them than the Sylvanias. I went through the same thing and found a different brand that worked well. Don't remember it off hand, but if you still have a problem, let me know and I'll look it up when I get home.

[projectfolly]

I ran into this problem with the Sylvanias as well.
Rather than modifying the terminals on the Sylvanias, I ended up buying a set of Wagners that had the correct terminals.

[69gtocv]

And really the best fix for even the T3's is to give the headlights a true 12 volts via a relay and separate the lights from the main front wiring harness and give them their own harness, but it WON'T LOOK STOCK and we can't have that! Jeep Wranglers are famous for less than desirable lighting, but switch them to the relay/harness way and it makes a huge difference.

[Cammer-6]

Better lighting at a reasonable price is the Hella replacements that use an H-1,H-4.
You can then upgrade the capsule to a higher wattage if desired.
I agree that the stock wiring sucks,use it to trigger a relay thats got a fused circuit
from the battery.#12 wire for the hot and ground works best.

[fyrebird68]

Originally Posted by projectfolly

I ran into this problem with the Sylvanias as well.
Rather than modifying the terminals on the Sylvanias, I ended up buying a set of Wagners that had the correct terminals.

Wagners is what I used.