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#1
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Bolts for front subframe are tighter now than they were before I started!
It still creaks whenever I start from a stop or apply brakes! What do I do? (Comp. Eng. Connecters) Thanks, David |
#2
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Are they the weld in type? I mean, do they weld to the rear and bolt to the front?
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![]() "Go fast, turn left, hang on, go straight, go faster...who wouldn't wanna piss off 900 angry horses?" 1967 Pontiac Firebird 400 Coupe 1966 Chevrolet Corvair Monza 110 Convertible 1965 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass 350 HO Coupe, soon to have Olds 403 1970 Chevrolet Nova 383 Coupe, NEW! 2007 GMC Sierra 5.3 Z71 Ext. 2007 GMC Yukon 5.3 SLT |
#3
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Did you put in the solid body bushings?
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1999 Trans Am Ws6 Slp Lid, K&N, Smooth Bellows, Ls6 intake, Spec Clutch, Spec Alum. Flywheel, Spintech Cat back. 1970 Firebird Esprit 455 Pro Street project |
#4
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They are the bolt in type. (front and rear)
I used the original bushings. David |
#5
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Where the body was flexing around the bushings, it's now flexing somewhere else most likely. OR it could be the connectors are transferring torque from the rear forward to the front subframe, causing your weak, worn out, original bushings to "creak". It's always best to install solid bushings between body and front subframe when installing connectors. Get ready for the car to ride like a buckboard.
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
#6
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I installed a set of solid mounts in my '76 TA years ago. Besides dropping the ride height slightly, it didn't change the ride one bit at all in any negative way. It just felt tighter and more solid to me. Maybe if I installed connectors it would be different but I can't see why. Stewart
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1976 TA, nose converted to 1970 style, 406, ported #13 Heads, '70 iron intake without crossovers, Q-Jet - Cliff style, RARE OS manifolds, Pypes duals w/crossflow, UD 230/238 custom HR 4/7 swap cam with solid roller lifters ![]() “Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.” - Winston Churchill |
#7
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![]() "Go fast, turn left, hang on, go straight, go faster...who wouldn't wanna piss off 900 angry horses?" 1967 Pontiac Firebird 400 Coupe 1966 Chevrolet Corvair Monza 110 Convertible 1965 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass 350 HO Coupe, soon to have Olds 403 1970 Chevrolet Nova 383 Coupe, NEW! 2007 GMC Sierra 5.3 Z71 Ext. 2007 GMC Yukon 5.3 SLT |
#8
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It's a total misnomer that subframe connectors and solid body bushings provide a "harsh" ride. There will be more vibrations transmitted, but that is not synonymous with a harsh ride. None of today's unibody cars have bushed subframes. They are all welded, but are much better insulated to deaden vibrations.
My 76 T/A with fully welded subframe connectors, solid body bushings and G-bar braces rides and handles better than it ever did before. Also, before I welded in the connectors and installed the solid mounts, I couldn't open the doors when the car was up on a lift, as the body would flex too much to allow it. Now, they open and close perfectly when up on a lift. To me, that means the overall rigidity of the body has improved dramatically! That far outweighs any increased vibrations that I fell. In fact, the slight increase in vibrations that I can feel in the seat of my pants only leads to an increased sense of being "connected" to the car.
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John ![]() "There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots!" |
#9
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Did the same thing; installed bolt in CE connectors and quickly grew tired of the squeaks
![]() Welded them and now enjoy the silence and the advantages of a full frame ![]() Les
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Les Iden ---------------------------- '65 Buick Sport Wagon Custom, 340, T350, 3:23 '66 GTO Post/468, 700R4, 3.31 (Mike's as of 9-16) '68 Grand Prix/455, dual AFBs, T400, 2:93 posi (sold) '72 TA tribute/461, T400, 3.08, (Russ's as of 9-16) '97 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Turbo, Konis, 5 speed '09 Torrent GXP, nav, Sun & Sound pkg., Bilsteins |
#10
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I have my own question on the subject. Are you guys welding the front and the rear? I can see the advantages for overall rigitity. Should they be welded at ride height or in the air? What is the best method for installing them. Mine have already been done, so it doesn't matter to me, but someday I may want to redo them if there's a better way.
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![]() "Go fast, turn left, hang on, go straight, go faster...who wouldn't wanna piss off 900 angry horses?" 1967 Pontiac Firebird 400 Coupe 1966 Chevrolet Corvair Monza 110 Convertible 1965 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass 350 HO Coupe, soon to have Olds 403 1970 Chevrolet Nova 383 Coupe, NEW! 2007 GMC Sierra 5.3 Z71 Ext. 2007 GMC Yukon 5.3 SLT |
#11
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Weld the connectors on all 4 positions, @ ride heigth. I used drive on ramps for welding mine.
Les
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Les Iden ---------------------------- '65 Buick Sport Wagon Custom, 340, T350, 3:23 '66 GTO Post/468, 700R4, 3.31 (Mike's as of 9-16) '68 Grand Prix/455, dual AFBs, T400, 2:93 posi (sold) '72 TA tribute/461, T400, 3.08, (Russ's as of 9-16) '97 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Turbo, Konis, 5 speed '09 Torrent GXP, nav, Sun & Sound pkg., Bilsteins |
#12
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Weld in DSE frame connectors were the best thing to happen to my wifes bird convert. Used solid body mounts and solid radiator supports bushings too. Like johnsma said no more sag, (no longer need convert body brace), can jack car from any point and no door bind etc. Ride quality is nice. The DSE bars dont affect ground clearance and are unnoticeable from side view. Where they go thru the rear floor is unnoticeable under stock carpet. http://www.detroitspeed.com/
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#13
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It's pointless to not weld them.!
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Tempest455 |
#14
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Probably not pointless, you are still better off than you were, but best to weld them in...
Here's another question. Are the "x-brace" connectors designed for convertibles any good? Can they be used on coupes as well? I don't know if these are the only type or brand available.
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![]() "Go fast, turn left, hang on, go straight, go faster...who wouldn't wanna piss off 900 angry horses?" 1967 Pontiac Firebird 400 Coupe 1966 Chevrolet Corvair Monza 110 Convertible 1965 Oldsmobile F85 Cutlass 350 HO Coupe, soon to have Olds 403 1970 Chevrolet Nova 383 Coupe, NEW! 2007 GMC Sierra 5.3 Z71 Ext. 2007 GMC Yukon 5.3 SLT Last edited by Eighttime; 12-13-2007 at 10:39 AM. |
#15
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The factory x brace is for convertibles and attempts to do what the roof does on the coupe. The convert still like a noodle with it. worse without. I no longer use it in my wifes car as the DSE bars tightened the car up so well you can jack it from any point with no change in door or fender gaps. Not so when stock.
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