Pontiac - Street No question too basic here!

          
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-13-2007, 09:31 PM
gtome's Avatar
gtome gtome is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Port Orange, FL
Posts: 2,034
Default This look right?

I am assembling my engine (this is my first one) and I just wanted to double check to make sure this is right. It was rebuilt by a Chevy guy and I know there are major differences, so just double and triple checking everything.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	004small.jpg
Views:	173
Size:	292.8 KB
ID:	104743  

  #2  
Old 09-13-2007, 09:45 PM
Kyflier Kyflier is offline
Chief Ponti-yacker
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 657
Default

Yep it's right

__________________
Kenny
Cincinnati, Oh
1971 Ventura II
400 .060 Eagle Rods
  #3  
Old 09-13-2007, 09:49 PM
gtome's Avatar
gtome gtome is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Port Orange, FL
Posts: 2,034
Default

Cool, on with the cover then! I am trying to get this together so I can paint it. Gonna go base/clear PPG this time.

  #4  
Old 09-14-2007, 03:27 AM
lust4speed's Avatar
lust4speed lust4speed is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Yucaipa, SoCal
Posts: 8,709
Default

Chevy guys will sometimes hang the rods backwards on a Pontiac since they are opposite (Chevy has driver side cylinders forward while Pontiac has the passenger side cylinders forward). This will put the wrist pin offset on the wrong side.

__________________
Mick Batson
1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon.
  #5  
Old 09-14-2007, 10:51 AM
RARON455's Avatar
RARON455 RARON455 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NORTH RICHLAND HILLS, TX
Posts: 169
Default

that looks exact to me, I would take the time and degree the cam also.

  #6  
Old 09-14-2007, 11:19 AM
gtome's Avatar
gtome gtome is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Port Orange, FL
Posts: 2,034
Default

Already got er together, plus I dont know how to do it. He may have done it already. Really alot of guys told me he is a good engine builder, but just like anywhere else he ends up doing mostly Chevys. If the pistons were wrong I would beat him. Im sure he did it right, cuz he took it apart, and I know he has done a few Pontiacs so I guess i will keep my fingers crossed. Actually maybe I will take a picture because I have to pull the pan back back off (i didnt put a gasket on yet) because I didnt like the look of my old oil pump drive. It was a little chewed up looking so I ordered a new one. It is supposed to be here today.

  #7  
Old 09-14-2007, 12:40 PM
gtome's Avatar
gtome gtome is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Port Orange, FL
Posts: 2,034
Default

Also, I was just looking at the engine and noticed that I will have to put plugs in it to keep paint out of there. Looks like its gonna be a pain to get paint in around that area with plugs in it. Any one have any good ideas on how this can be done a little easier? I was thinking maybe I could get short bolts to plug it, but I dont have any that thread size.

  #8  
Old 09-14-2007, 12:44 PM
gto4evr gto4evr is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lancaster NY
Posts: 3,547
Default

get an old set of plugs and snap the porcelain off so you just have the bases. screw em in and your good to go

  #9  
Old 09-14-2007, 12:53 PM
engineer engineer is offline
Suspended
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: usa
Posts: 6,016
Default

looks off one tooth, lay a metal straight edge across the marks to be sure they line up.

  #10  
Old 09-14-2007, 01:21 PM
gtome's Avatar
gtome gtome is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Port Orange, FL
Posts: 2,034
Default

Exellent idea on breaking the porcelain off, they are broken off and installed. I already put the timing chain cover on, so cross yer fingers for me. Now trying to figure how I am going to block off the crossovers. Maybe a piece of stainless under the gasket? Saw the thread on the crosswind intake, looks good and has the crossover blocked. Since I have an old Torker, might be time for a change (although it ran like a raped ape with it before) to a RPM type.

  #11  
Old 09-14-2007, 02:17 PM
runningbwdog's Avatar
runningbwdog runningbwdog is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,299
Default

Hi,
Why not go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy 8 small corks. They will plug the threaded spark plug holes and not be so big in diameter to prevent paint from getting on the walls where the sparkplug bases would be adjacent to. The mating surface should be clean since it is the sealing point either by a metal gasket or tapered edge.
If you have the timing cover back on, you can put the harmonic balancer on and check #1 Cylinder TDC with respect to the timing tab marks.
You can buy a degree tape that you put on the circumference of the harmonic balancer. With a dial indicator you can check the position of the cam lobes. Your cam should have specs that tell you when the cylinder #1 intake valve starts to open, when it reached max lift and when it should be closed. The degrees should align with the TDC mark on the timing tab. This way you will know for certain the the cam is in the right position (advanced or retarded).
FWIW.
Mike

__________________
1968 Pontiac GTO 462CID, 4-Speed Manual, 3.55 rear. Aleutian Blue exterior, 219 Teal Blue interior. Chrome bumper, AM & 8-Track and Rally II Wheels

Last edited by runningbwdog; 09-14-2007 at 02:25 PM.
  #12  
Old 09-14-2007, 02:48 PM
gtome's Avatar
gtome gtome is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Port Orange, FL
Posts: 2,034
Default

Not a bad idea. Might grab some when I go in town. I am re-useing the old cam and it was in there when I got it, so I dont have a spec card. Only thing i know is the cam has 460 lift with a 1.5. Since I am running 1.65 HS rockers that comes out to 505 lift. I dont know the LSA or CL

  #13  
Old 09-14-2007, 03:12 PM
lust4speed's Avatar
lust4speed lust4speed is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Yucaipa, SoCal
Posts: 8,709
Default

Or just forget about sticking anything in the holes. That little bit of paint on the threads or piston won't hurt anything. Overspray on the piston will go out the exhaust about the second revolution, and the paint on the threads will keep the threads from rusting. If anything the plugs unscrew easier when you finally replace them. The little corks are a good compromise since you will paint the plug gasket contact area area of the head and keep it from rusting.

__________________
Mick Batson
1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon.
  #14  
Old 09-14-2007, 03:35 PM
gtome's Avatar
gtome gtome is offline
Ultimate Warrior
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Port Orange, FL
Posts: 2,034
Default

Well, it would probly be more than a little. I plan epoxy primer, base, and clear coat. I thought about using nothing to cover them and see if i can get a chaser to run down through them when I was finished. Chances are with all the oil on the internal stuff, paint wouldnt even stick to it anyway.

Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:29 PM.

 

About Us

The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.

 




Copyright © 2017