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  #1  
Old 08-06-2005, 06:10 PM
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Pzr Pzr is offline
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Default Need calculation help and engine tip's

Hi all.
Two questions.

1)
I have just finished rebuilding my 350 H.O (WK) (Honed with standard studs, crank, pistons and lifters)
Edelbrock performer manifold
066 crane blueprinted cam
"47" -69 valve heads
Holley 600cfm
Standard exhaust manifolds to a dual 2 1/4 exhaust pipe system.

I would like someone to help me calculate what I have in "power" now and what I could change to get it more "fun" .

2)
And oh. I have started to look around for a new engine project.
What should I aim for 400 or 455?
(Want to have a "fun to drive" car at the sam time as a daily drive car.)

Regards Emanuel

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  #2  
Old 08-06-2005, 08:05 PM
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uneasyrider uneasyrider is offline
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I'm going to guess you will get 330hp out of your 350.

As far as the next project goes, I would find the best 400-455 block you can find and do this to it. I'm VERY happy with this combo.

E-heads (out of the box)

462cid (400 block 0.060 over)

Eagle crank and H-beam rods

10.2:1 compression

Pistons = SRP

RPM manifold

Crower part # 60243 Grind # 284HDP: (2,500-6,000)

@ 0.050 228/235

112deg lobe sep.

0.479/0.494 (w/1.5:1)

1.5:1 rockers

stock 800cfm Q-jet

Hooker Super Comp. headers (forget the size but needless to say they are large)

Take care,

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  #3  
Old 08-06-2005, 08:43 PM
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The 066 is a pretty mild cam, it was used in many medium-performance 4-barrel 400 engines, and some 2-barrel 455 engines. The 1968 350 HO 320 HP automatic-trans 4-barrel engines used the 066 cam. However the factory 320 HP rating was a bit optimistic, I'd venture a guess that it is actually closer to 280 actual HP.

The Performer intake is just about equal to a stock iron 4-barrel Q-jet intake. Your 600 cfm carb is just about right for a decent running street 350 engine.
In its current form I'd say your engine has somewhere around 270 HP.

My choice would be a 750 or 800 Q-jet carb (both sizes came on 350 engines) for a later performance upgrade. A cam swap to the factory 068 cam would bump up the power by about 20 HP. Adding a set of headers could gain you another 15 HP.

With a combination of the carb, cam, and headers you'll likely end up with a good 310 to 320 true horsepower. That's a good running 350.

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  #4  
Old 08-07-2005, 08:33 AM
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Thanks for the replies and good advices!

Then I'll think I go for ramairrestoration "headers" (clearance) building a new exhaust pipe system (2˝) w. crossover (might make performance for the 350 better and will work good w. the 400/455) and then starting collecting parts for the 400/455 build.

I will also change the Holley to a Qadrajet I have, will first send it to a guy here in sweden that are great with tuning Q-jets.

Im quite happy with the 350 rebuild and the engine works fine. It's just that I am quite new to this. (Bought car in june -03)
I know the 066 cam is a bit to weak from original (Original it should be a 067, but the oppertunity to buy the 066 cheap was there so...).

What years made the best 400/455 blocks? (Or are all 400/455 equal?)


Almost forgot, I have a rear of 2.73 now, non posi, is this something to change to have a more "fun" car?
It's really nice when driving highway but awful when making black marks...

This car is something I've turned to be devoted to and something I will never let go of (rather loose my apartment etc...)

: Emanuel

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Last edited by Pzr; 08-07-2005 at 08:41 AM.
  #5  
Old 08-07-2005, 12:14 PM
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What years made the best 400/455 blocks? (Or are all 400/455 equal?)

All of the 400 and 455 blocks and cranks are pretty much equal when it comes to building a good street engine. The engines built before 1975 will have stouter cranks and blocks for the most part, but any of them will be good basis for a 400 to 500 HP street engine.

I have a rear of 2.73 now, non posi, is this something to change to have a more "fun" car?

With the current 2.73 rear the 066 cam is a good match, but if you go to a bigger cam you're going to want a 3.23 or 3.42 gear to be able to take advantage or the new cam's higher RPM powerband. A gear change right now might make some difference, but doing the gear change along with a cam swap will definitely make the car more fun.

Before you do anything have the distributor reworked to provide you with a better advance curve. You'll be surprised when you find all of the hidden power that a good performance distributor recurve can uncover.

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  #6  
Old 08-07-2005, 12:30 PM
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I have not made any check of the distributor, maby I should get a new one (stock).
It looks kinda old and used so. It might be a good investment to buy a new one now.

Then i'm curious over the ignition timing. When I started up the engine after rebuild (ca 3 weeks ago) I put the timing to 12 degrees and idle at 800rpm (Some sites said 9 degrees for 68 350?) w vacuum plugged.
Now I have the distributor coupled to the intake manifold vacuum, is this correct?

Im not so good in how to tune in an engne (newbie) so maby you could share som knowledge how to make my current engine assy to work the best

e.g What is the points you go thru when youre adjusting this on an engine.

(Phew! all the words get stuck when I try to think in swedish and write in english...)

About the 400/455 proj, I'll think I will buy the first 400/455 in the right pricerange then.


Regards Emanuel

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  #7  
Old 08-09-2005, 07:24 AM
Geoff Geoff is offline
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With 12 degrees initial you may have too much total advance at idle [ 12 + whatever the vac adv adds ] for the mild 066 cam. If it runs rough or you get pinging, you may want to reduce the travel of the vac adv arm or fit an adjustable Crane unit. I would retain the 12 initial setting for good throttle response.

  #8  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:37 PM
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Some facts about my car's ebhavior:

Cold engine: It takes time to get a nice idle, need to pump a few times and get the engine up in rpm. (Maby nothing unusual with this)
Hot engine: Ok with D (~600rpm), in P or N it goes up to 800rpm.
It hesitates when going from cruising speed to acceleration, very annoying.
And the reason I think my ignition timing not is correct is the way it feels when I drive. Can not explain it, you just feel it. (It might not be just the timing, maby it's the carburator settings or some vacuum leaks.

Will try to look into every possibility.
Thank you for your answers.
(Feel free to give more tip's ! )

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  #9  
Old 08-13-2005, 05:13 AM
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Seems like I will have a 400'' at autumn to start work on.
The only one not as excited is my girlfriend , I understand her and will make up for it.
I'll get back to ya all when I start the rebuild.

Regards

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Last edited by Pzr; 08-13-2005 at 07:16 AM.
  #10  
Old 08-24-2007, 06:01 AM
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Update:
My 350 HO works like a charm.
Rebuilt Quadrajet by Kenth
th-350 shiftkitted (transgo)
Upgraded to 2,5'' pypes w x-over and ra-exhaust manifolds from ramairresto.
Rearend shifted from 2.73 to 3.42 w a eaton posi.
(much more fun now )

But, I bought a 400'' engine from 1971 to rebuild this winter.
(Yes, feels good to put the correct engine into the car.)

Want a driveable street-machine that I can enjoy cruizin, and sometimes let the power out on the streets.
So please, giver me more input on reciepes and engine combos.
(i have already purchased Jim Hands how to... 3 years ago... )

Thankful for advice's.
The 350 will be put on stand when 400's ready.

regards Emanuel

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Last edited by Pzr; 08-24-2007 at 10:38 AM.
  #11  
Old 08-24-2007, 07:19 AM
rad400 rad400 is offline
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pzr any of those combos in the back of Jim's book would be alot of fun to drive. It all depends on the money you want to spend, and how fast you want to go.

  #12  
Old 08-24-2007, 10:33 AM
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I know it all depends on how much money you are willing to spend into the project.
And also what the objective with the engine will be.

I want a cruiseable car that has power when if needed. :-)
It's fairly okay for now, just want to go bigger and with correct engine year for the car.

rad400 you are absolutely right, well see where It end.

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