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#1
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welding aluminum...
Has anyone welded up 2024 aluminum? How about 7075 aluminum? I'd like to use either of those 2 alloys for a custom bracket assembly for my 428, but I'm questioning the weld-ability of 2024 and 7075...and I don't want to buy raw materials, have them machined, and then scrap them because they won't weld.
I know that 6061 will weld up easy, but it is a bit weaker than 2024 and very weak compared to 7075. Any thoughts? |
#2
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what are you making?
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#3
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I have no experience with the 2000 series aluminum, but I can tell you for sure that 7075 does NOT weld very well. The problem is that the material will crack, usually either through the middle of the weld, or sometimes right beside the weld in the heat affected zone. I have seen instances where the crack followed right behind the weld, and the parts fell apart seconds after welding! 7075 is best suited for billet, machined parts.
I have welded 6061 for many brackets, and would consider it the best alternative for what you are trying to do, even though it is not the ultimate choice for the highest weld strength. Even so, I have welded a lot of 6061 with no problems. I usually fabricate blower brackets etc. from 6061. For liquid tanks, oilpans, intake manifolds, etc, I use 3003 for its formability and weldability properties. If you try to bend too tight of a radius in 5000 or 6000 series aluminum, you will induce stress cracking along the crown of the bend, which leads to early part failure. Hope this helps. Travis |
#4
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Use 6061
Check out http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...nt/tigalum.asp And http://www.suppliersonline.com/Resea...1&Mechanical=1 This states welding is not recommended 6061 It will hold most any application your doing for the front of your car. 7075 May crack after welding unless you anneal it afterwards, plus you need to weld it with a MIG welder. I hope your welding it with a TIG welder? |
#5
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2024 and 7075 are both non-weldable alloys. To much copper is used in these two alloys. 6061 would be your best bet. It should be tough enough to handle what you want to do.
__________________
Less said,,,,,,,, Less mended. |
#6
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if i need to hand cut some 6061 what are the best tools ?
__________________
1981 Trans Am project -YJ 400 stroked to 488 CID-74cc Eheads-10.95:1-Northwind Intake-Holley Terminator-TH400-Moser rear-Dougs Headers.... |
#7
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As a machinist and a welder I would not reccomend it.. I have seen/read about welding 2024 but not 7075. They are both advertised as not weldable but you can weld 2024, it should be welded somewhat like cast aluminium/cast iron (welded spot after spot and cooled in sand or oven)..
BUT that weld is not going to be as strong as a regular aluminium weld with common material. Also one thing to consider.. 7075 is weak for corrosion (it would have to be anodized at least) + get the correct wire for whatever material you pick KR |
#8
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thanks for the info.
i went ahead and ordered some 6061. |
#9
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Steve -
Use a good jigsaw with an 18 tpi blade, and lots of WD40. For straight cuts, I use a circular saw with a carbide tipped blade, again with WD40, a smooth, slow feed, and hearing protection. I have cut 3/4" 6061 this way. Just take your time, and use masking tape to protect the aluminum surface if you need to. TQ |
#10
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Quote:
__________________
Anybody else on this planet campaign a M/T hemi Pontiac for eleven seasons? ... or has built a record breaking DOHC hemi four cylinder Pontiac? ... or has driven a couple laps of Nuerburgring with Tri-Power Pontiac power?(back in 1967) ... or has a Pontiac born the same year as Jim Wangers? (1926} |
#11
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Quote:
the jigsaw i can understand and that was the only option i had thought of. hard to get straight lines though ! CIRCULAR SAW ?? you mean 10" hand held ? what blades do you use ? cant imagine any wood blade would work ? never seen a real fine tooth blade for them that is for metal ? are you talking table saw ? another member here provided me with some 1/2" 6061 and i would like to try and cut it myself.....
__________________
1981 Trans Am project -YJ 400 stroked to 488 CID-74cc Eheads-10.95:1-Northwind Intake-Holley Terminator-TH400-Moser rear-Dougs Headers.... |
#12
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Steve -
I am indeed talking about a 10", hand held circular saw. I use a standard 40 tooth blade, carbide tipped. Same thing as for wood. I promise you, I am not smoking dope!! The first time I saw this done, I stood about 50 feet away and hid behind something. The guy doing the cutting just looked at me funny, shrugged his shoulders, squirted the WD40 on the plate and RRRRRRRIIIIIIIPPPPPPP!!! It took about thirty seconds to cut through a 4 foot wide sheet of 1/2" 6061. Ever since then, I cut all my aluminum plate and sheet with it. Also, I use a miter saw to cut aluminum tubing for turbo ducting. Smooth, burr-free cut that is perfectly square every time! Give it a try on some small strips first, be sure to use plenty of WD40, and don't force the blade. Just ease it through the material, just quickly enough to drop the blade rpm a tad. Also, keep the broom handy, as the blade makes a TON of aluminum chips! Not sharp shavings, but little chips. |
#13
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cicular saw blades are the way to go..... I use them every day. they do make carbide fine tooth metal cutting blades for them. I would recomend a wet band saw for large AL cuts though. I use a 18v milwaukee metal cutting saw at home and the new 28v milwaukee at work. either one can cut through 3/4 inch 304 stainless. but the 28v makes the 18 seem like a POS.
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