[GTO Noob]

I just finished completely dismantling my 400 engine right down to every last bolt and widget. I will be taking it in probably tomorrow to get cleaned, tested and machine work that is needed. I don't think they will have to do any to the block as there is no lip in the cylinder walls at all. I am sure the engine was rebuilt not that long ago but it was leaking from several different gaskets so I have no regrets pulling it.

My question is, when I take the block, crank, oil pan, windage tray, valley pan, cam shaft, heads, Timing chain cover and intake manifold in to get cleaned and serviced do I also take in the pistons and the main caps? I can clean the main caps by hand but I don't know if the shop needs to see them in order to make sure everything fits properly?

Are there any other pieces that I have forgotten to mention or that should go in as well?

The other question I have is if somebody can tell me the name of this part and it's specific purpose. I believe it's used for vacuum lines but i don't know which ones. I also believe that all of the nipples are broken off of mine so does anybody know who sells these animals.

Thanks in advance for the help. I've made it this far with the limited knowledge I have along with books I have purchased but mainly from the good people from this site.

I was going to get somebody to do the rebuild but he hurt his back and I'm not sure how long he's down for. I've rebuilt an engine before but that was 20 years ago. I've taken it this far I don't see any reason to stop now.

How's that saying go ... there's a fine line between bravery and stupidity

[kyle_blake]

py sell them I think they are $50
a lot of the time even killer resto job's just don't put it back in. They block it off.

[JACK_BURTON55]

i would say you are brave taking your engine part haha! i also have that same little module on my intake and all but one of its stubs are broken off, i would only imagine that its some kind of emmision equipment. ive talked to other people, they all said just take it off and put a blocking off bolt in its place

[MalteseFalcon]

Its called a thermal vacuum switch or thermal vacuum valve.

[GTO Noob]

Originally Posted by MalteseFalcon

Its called a thermal vacuum switch or thermal vacuum valve.

Thanks do you know what it was used for?

[david400]

Hope you can find one cheaper than this one . 250089170336 eBay acution number it sold for $280. bucks i was gonna look and see if a had one laying around.

[ho428]

I was taught to never, ever leave the block and mains seperated.
Same with rod caps.

Send the pistons and rods to have the have the rod ends checked, balanced and/or resized, the pistons cleaned, balanced and put back together.

[Grant Miller]

I don't know what year your engine is, but my 68 had those lines going to several different vacuum ports on the carb and then to the vacuum advance/retard on the distributor. The problem is that the vacuum dashpot that has advance and retard nipples is not available anymore, unless it has come on the market recently. I have a brand new GM themal switch, but I could never find the distributor advance/retard unit. I currently have a temp guage where the thermal switch goes.

[GR8ONE68]

Basically, the thermal vacuum switch is used to not allow vacuum to the vacuum advance on the distributor until the car is up to operating temperature. I believe it was put there for emmission purposes.

[pontorquer]

Take the block and the main caps to your machinist as a unit, they have to check the alignment for your crank and bearings to see if it needs to be line bored. Which machine shop are you going to use ?

[pontorquer]

Take the block and the main caps to your machinist as a unit, they have to check the alignment for your crank and bearings to see if it needs to be line bored. Which machine shop are you going to use ?

[sharkbite]

I 2nd that, They have to have the caps if they need to line bore the crank journals. They'll need the crank, rods and pistons to make sure it is balanced. The timing chain cover & valley pan can stay home unless u want them hot tanked and the windage tray needs nothing but to be cleaned up with some paint thinner or somthing similer, no need to have hot tanked. Save a few bucks and just clean the pan your self as well.

[66GTO Jim]

Anytime you're rebuilding an engine or replacing the water pump, make sure you read the"sticky" post "Chalk one up for the cast impeller". George Kujanski's post has helped me and many others that were having overheating problems with rebuilt engines! Jim

[GTO Noob]

Originally Posted by pontorquer

Take the block and the main caps to your machinist as a unit, they have to check the alignment for your crank and bearings to see if it needs to be line bored. Which machine shop are you going to use ?

Thanks for all for the replies. I took everything in and it all worked out great. Had the crank polished to 10/10 and the block deglazed. My original 62 heads are in perfect condition and I got everything back on Tuesday. I should have everything back in the car in the next couple of weeks. I am going to pick up my tranny today.

Pont. I took the engine to Piston ring. If your going there speak to John. to do everything it was around $600.

[pontorquer]

That's great ! I know somebody that works there too and a friend who just got his 78 W72 400 rebuilt there (going in a 69 Firebird). That machine shop his just minute away from my place, double check all your clearances before you put it back together. What kind of pistons are you using ?

[GTO Noob]

I'm using the 30 over pistons that came out of it. I had them check them and they came back good as gold. As for the make of them I couldn't tell you.