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#1
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ARP bolts in stock rods
Is it worth installing ARP bolts in stock rods? I know B-Man will say no, get new rods.
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This world is your world, so take it, but take it easy. |
#2
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To install new bolts and resize stock rods you are looking at around $180-200......so, you make the call.
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#3
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So to install ARP stock need to be resized. Thanks
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This world is your world, so take it, but take it easy. |
#4
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Ive got a set of stock rods with arp bolts in them ,the machine shop just took them out and replaced with h beams.All boxed up .100.00 plus shipping.
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#5
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I guess my questions is not getting across. Will ARP bolts fit in stock rods without and any machining, if so, is it worth it?
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This world is your world, so take it, but take it easy. |
#6
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ARP bolts will fit in stock rods, but you'll have to have them machined.
To me, it's not worth it, when you can get a nice set of eagle rods and have peace of mind for around $500-550. You'll have to make the call if it is worth it to you or not.
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"XE cam basher" |
#7
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Quote:
The new ARP bolts won't locate the cap the same way as the old bolts did, plus the new bolts will distort things differntly down there, hence the need to rebuild. I'm sure some folks who really know their stuff (with the ability to check the rods properly) have simply just replaced the bolts and run the cast rods with success. I run stock cast rods in two of my engines, but neither set have been rebuilt and both have original bolts in them. One set is in a high-11s/low-12s race car with a 'virgin' untouched factory bottom end, the other is in a high-13s daily-driver that I threw together on the cheap. Both are 455s, both are time bombs. When it's time to rebuild these engines, I have new set of Crower rods for one and a good rebuilt set of forged '63 SD rods going in the other one. I would never waste my money rebuilding cast rods when new forged ones can be had for $228. To each their own.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#8
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What it boils down to is are you okay with risking thousands of dollars worth of engine on parts that are known to be junk?
It is like driving your car with no insurance. Sure, you may never get in an accident and so you saved some money. But, if you do get in an accident, then you can bend over and kiss your ass goodbye. Same with your engine. Spend the extra couple of hundred and get good rods. |
#9
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Is there ANY other ARP bolt or differant brand that would work and wouldn't require the rod to be resized. I've seen listed here a small block mopar bolt may work or a Pioneer brand bolt but couldn't find a part #. Has anyone done this with success?
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#10
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That answers my question, thank you very much.
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This world is your world, so take it, but take it easy. |
#11
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I'm going to get it for this one. I know a machinest who just puts the ARP bolts in without machining the rods. He says most of the rods never need machining. He bought a rod resizing machine and says it was not worth it. he says he has built countless motos by just adding the rod bolts without problems. I just happen to have a set of the ARP rod bolts, it looks like they will just go right into the stock rods. I have also heard the dry ice trick.
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#12
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I confess to having a ticking time bomb as well. I built a cheap 455 with stock rods that I replaced with arp bolts. I did check the rod hole though before and after to make sure they were still in spec. So far still ticking....
If I was to build the engine correctly, I would buy new rods. |
#13
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Not everyone wants or needs to build a $5000.00 motor. My ARP bolts are going into a 100,000 mile 455. I would be gald to take pictures if someone can give me a real reason that the rods need to be resized by just changing the bolts. Rod bolts are rated by how many cycles an engine goes through. When I asked don't the rods need to be resized, I was told where is it going to go?
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#14
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I've done two sets without machining.
Torque the cap's with the bearing's installed, and mic'm. Some i had to scotch bright the outside 1/2's of the bearing's a tad. 1 or 2 needed to lightly file the rod and cap down a tad. Think i even may of filed a couple bearing ends or two...you guessed it...just a tad. I'll be right back with my helmet and fire suit
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If you cant drive from gas pump to gas pump across the map, its not a street car. http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/b...hop/?start=100 |
#15
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if on a tight budget and it is just a stock type rebuild nothing wrong with arp's and re-sizing stock rods (magging helps too)...mine were out of round...$90. for resize+ cost of arp's...ive seen just as many aftermarket rods blow up as stock...if i had the $$$ i would go with aftermarket rods...but hey...those need to checked as well soemtimes adding to cost...
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'74 formula 400, w/shaker (3 scoops) black deluxe interior, '70 406 balanced assembly, .30 trw slugs, moly rings, 4x heads 2.11/1.77 stainless valves, ra 4 cam, e-rpm intake, holley 750 vac. sec, msd hei, hooker headers w/ dual 3'' flowmaster 50 series ending at axle, t400 w/ GM6 convertor, transgo shift kit, b&m starshifter, 3.08 gears, centerlines, 265/50-15 bfg's rear and 235/60-15 front...yes im over cammed but it is still very fun... |
#16
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I PLAN to use USED stock rod bolts in stock rods for the 455 BOMB engine.
Cracked block (already +060 & decked and looking pretty good) Cracked crank (std mains, MAYBE 010 rods) Used 060 TRW slugs with used PMD pins. used timing chain&gears. used oil pump NEW CAM..& Lifters. If you have similar Capital investment commitment as I, then there's your answer. |
#17
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I PLAN to use USED stock rod bolts in stock rods for the 455 BOMB engine.
Cracked block (already +060 & decked and looking pretty good) Cracked crank (std mains, MAYBE 010 rods) Used 060 TRW slugs with used PMD pins. used timing chain&gears. used oil pump NEW CAM..& Lifters. If you have similar Capital investment commitment as I, then there's your answer. |
#18
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I PLAN to use USED stock rod bolts in stock rods for the 455 BOMB engine.
Cracked block (already +060 & decked and looking pretty good) Cracked crank (std mains, MAYBE 010 rods) Used 060 TRW slugs with used PMD pins. used timing chain&gears. used oil pump NEW CAM..& Lifters. If you have similar Capital investment commitment as I, then there's your answer. |
#19
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...crap
uh sorry. |
#20
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It sounded so nice because we read it thrice!
In my case I have a RUNNING 455. I plan on pulling the oil pan. Replacing the main and rod bearings, replacing the oil pump. I don't HAVE $500 to spend on a set of rods. I did not plan on even removing the slugs from their holes. I was planning to use ARP rods bolts. The same question applies. Will they fit? I would have ASSUMED they would be a drop in replacement. Obviously that assumption may be flawed. Last edited by DScruggs; 01-30-2007 at 08:21 PM. |
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