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Old 10-12-2006, 12:11 PM
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68droptop 68droptop is offline
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Default Galvanizing Your Frame

I just got off the phone with Young's Galvanizing in Pulaski, PA. He said that they charge $.75 / lb with a minimum charge of $200.
Has anyone weighed a 68 vert GTO frame? I'm guessing that this should cost me about $200 - $300 by the time it's all done. If that's the case, I will galvanize my frame.

Thanks,
Jeff

http://younggalvanizing.com/

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Old 10-12-2006, 04:37 PM
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my 67 hardtop frame weighed 220 lbs.
i had mine galvanized last year in canton, ohio for $150.00. their minimum charge.
david

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Old 10-12-2006, 07:56 PM
6d7gto 6d7gto is offline
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6t7, how did your frame turn out? be careful not to weld after it's galvanized. i heard it lets off toxic fumes/particles so wear a proper mask. also, did your frame lose the vin stamping on the rear rail? my #'s are weak already and i'm afraid they might disappear altogether after the galvanization process. are my fears unfounded? i like your user name, by the way.
68droptop, please excuse me for butting in on your thread. just wanted to warn people and ask relative questions. your frame is slightly heavier so you might end up going over the minimum charge. i also heard to take any other parts that need galvanizing at the same time. they just dip 'em with the frame and saves money, especially if you're under the minimum weight. since yours is a boxed frame, you probably need to 'vent' parts of the frame that might trap air by drilling small holes. one more thing, if you plan to paint or powder coat, tell the dippers to skip the oil quench bath. i'm dumb as a brick but i stayed at holiday inn last night.
good luck!

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Old 10-12-2006, 07:59 PM
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That sounds pretty slick, do you have any pictures?

After it was dipped did you have to ream out all holes and such, or was the dip thin enough to re-install all parts as is?

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Old 10-12-2006, 08:59 PM
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will paint stick to it?I had a part done once and could not get paint to stay on it.Tom

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Old 10-13-2006, 12:18 AM
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Tom S- Did you use the zinc-chromate primer that's recommended over galvanized?

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Old 10-13-2006, 07:09 AM
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do a search for galvanizing here...
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/
numerous frames were done.
i did find my frame vin number.
after galvanizing and powder coating it is no longer visible.
i had to ream/chase threads any and all holes in the frame.
especially the parking brake cable where it passes thru the frame under the driver's feet.
no welding was needed on my frame.
if it would have been a sunny day, when i picked it up, it would have looked like it was chromed.
very satisfied i chose the galvanizing.
it is now rustproofed inside and out.

david

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Old 10-13-2006, 08:20 AM
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Galvanizing a frame that has scale-rust inside the rear-box-rail-zones seems moot to me.
Galvanizing a good-frame-candidate sound fine (I imagine the result is a ripple texture).

Frame candidate AND Prep seems key.

Learned from Powder-coating: a good idea to install screws BEFORE the galvanic plating.

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Old 10-13-2006, 08:30 AM
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6d,

No problem on your post

Thanks for the replys. I'm now having second thoughts on doing this after reading about the vin on the frame and drilling holes in the frame. That would be a bid "no no" for me.

So my next question is, how do you clean and paint the inside of a boxed frame? Is that even possible?

Thanks,
Jeff

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Old 10-13-2006, 10:20 AM
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Jack,I did,might have been a marine problem,it was on my boat.Tom

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Old 10-13-2006, 11:43 AM
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some pics...
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  #12  
Old 10-14-2006, 05:42 PM
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That looks pretty slick. Galvanizing shops are about the smelliest, dirtiest places I've ever seen, I used to make Disc Golf (Frisbee golf) baskets and have them galvanized for weather proofing and I could never under stand how those guys could work in such a place.

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  #13  
Old 10-14-2006, 07:08 PM
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Question for you 6t7: DId the powdercoaters need to prep the surface before coating? Or was the Galv texture rough enough

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  #14  
Old 10-15-2006, 07:47 AM
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I talked to a company that powdercoats the fancy light poles in the upscale malls.
they instructed me to tell the powdercoater, i used, to etch the galvanize with media blasting. about 60 psi would be sufficient.
my frame did not have any pitting to begin with.
i am very satisfied.

david

  #15  
Old 10-17-2006, 11:55 PM
Pontirag Pontirag is offline
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Yo 6T7GTO,
you galvanized your frame and then powercoated it and it came out looking like that? wow its really nice. what a starting point for a restoration. Did you clean up or derust the frame prior to the gavanizing application. Did you get even in the inaccessable/hard to reach places. That silver looks very nice.

did you clean up the welds on the frame at all first. Did you go back and complete all the welds prior to galvanizing? Its really amazing. good for another 100 years. Lets see.. how many generations will that be...Hmm?

  #16  
Old 10-18-2006, 07:54 AM
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All i did was pressure wash the frame before the trip to the galvanizer.
the powdercoater got into as many tight places that he could. he then put it in the oven for a little while, pulled it out and went over it again for any missed spots. then back in the oven for the final bake.
i didn't clean up any of the factory welds and i didn't find any missing welds.

david

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