[Naamanf]

Any idea what fuse it is? I looked on the fuse block and didn't see one label WDO/Window. I was rolling both windows down and they stop working and now won't roll up so I figure it's a fuse somewhere.

[GStage1]

Read this article...should help and shows master PW fuse in the fuse panel.

http://www.buickperformance.com/PW.htm

[Naamanf]

Thanks for the help.

[Naamanf]

Found the problem. Instead of fixing the power wiring, someone before me ran a new wire from the battery to the window switch. At least they added a fuse at the battery (it was blown). Time to fix the fix.

[Grand73Am]

There's also a power window relay up under the dash above and to the right side of the pedal support. Hard place to get to. My windows didn't work a few weeks ago, and I tracked it down to the relay being bad. The relay makes it so the windows will only work with the key on. The parts stores didn't have the relay anyway, so I bypassed it and now have power to the windows without having to have the key on, which I prefer .

[vidguy]

FYI-
my driver window stopped working at all. after Troubleshooting everything including, motors, tracks, wiring and taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts, etc,, I bought a NEW switch, put it in and the windows work perfectly.

[Skip Fix]

So how did you wire around the relay?

[Grand73Am]

On my 79 TA, I pulled the black connector plug off the relay. On the plug there are 3 wires, one 12 gauge pink, one 12 gauge Orange/with black stripe, and one 18 gauge pink/with black stripe. All you do have to do is splice the 12 gauge pink and the 12 gauge orange together and forget about the 18 gauge wire(other than making sure it is kept from grounding on anything). I didn't want to cut my wiring and splice it at this point, so I made a jumper wire with male crimp-on terminals which I plugged into the black connector plug to make the connection between the large pink and orange wires. I then taped the jumper securely to the plug with electrical tape for the time being.

But for a permanent job, you could just trace those 2 wires back towards the kick panel and connect them there where it's easier to get to. I'd solder them and use some shrink tubing for insulation.

[Skip Fix]

So did direct wiring boost the speed on the motors?

[GStage1]

Well, your thinking is correct but your process is wrong.

The relay is there for a reason....it acts to send the high current to the window motors when needed. With you bypassing it, you will now place the current on the switch contacts and they will burn out.

For proper window operation with the key the factory engineers ran a pink wire to the fuse box marked "ign" You need to have the key in the "on" position to operate the windows.

If you want the windows to work regardless of the key cylinder position...change the connector on the pink wire and plug it into the "bat" terminal.

[Grand73Am]

I disagree. You must not be familiar with the p.w. setup on f-bodys. The only thing the relay does in this case is to allow the power connection between the orange and pink wires when the key is on. This relay does not send power to the windows. It just sends power to the switch, which then sends power to the window motors. This has been a complaint of f-body owners that the power to the windows runs thru the switch, but that's how they are.
But then you say, "change the connector on the pink wire and plug it into the "bat" terminal." That is essentially what I have done, since I have connected the pink wire to the orange wire. The orange wire is constant power from the fuse panel. Same thing.

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

So did direct wiring boost the speed on the motors?

Since they weren't working, it boosted the speed alot . But seriously, I don't have any speed comparison. All I know is they work fine now.

[Skip Fix]

My 78s dragging or I have to hit the switch hard to get it to work. New switch didn't do anything. the drag I adjusted years ago from the felts, so I'm betting the relay is going.

[Grand73Am]

Some people have complained of bad grounds. The motors ground to the doors which ground to the body. So you might try attaching a ground wire to a motor and ground directly to the body to see if you see any difference. Then you'd know if you had a grounding problem.

[Alvin]

Great discussion so far. Question, with the alternator and battery removed, what wires should be energized to roll the power windows up on a 79 TA? I have access to the harness at the factory power window switch, and the harness that attaches to the alternator is still in place under the hood but the alternator has been removed for rebuild. Eveything is still in place, except for alternator, and battery. Looking for which wires to ground and energize to power windows up using a battery or 12volt source. It would be great if the underhood connections to energize the factory switch and windows could be used.

[Grand73Am]

You still have battery cables in the car? If so and if your power window wires are still in place, all you have to do is sit the battery back in and put the cables back on it or, if for some reason you don't want to sit it back in yet, use jumper cables to connect the battery to the battery cables and operate the windows as usual.
The missing alternator shouldn't make a difference.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Grand73Am

You still have battery cables in the car? If so and if your power window wires are still in place, all you have to do is sit the battery back in and put the cables back on it or, if for some reason you don't want to sit it back in yet, use jumper cables to connect the battery to the battery cables and operate the windows as usual.
The missing alternator shouldn't make a difference.

Thanks Yes, I still have cables, etc. the only not attached are the alternator connections.