[oz07]

I just spent all summer putting the engine back in after replacing core support and detail underhood. I thought it would take me a few weekends and turned into months. ANyway, finally got it done and took for a drive this morning after it warmed up noticed a knock very light but sounds like coming from deep down. You can "feel" it when placing a board anywhere on the engine not bad and loud but you can detect it - seems to be worse when it's warm. Anyway when the engine was out - nothing was done except replace to a correct intake. I did seem to notice an occasoinal miss (actually wife did I was too excited at first) good oil pressure, not overheating. What could it be? disaster? Here are my questions.

It's a numbers matching 67 how much would a stock rebuild run if I remove and install it myself ? I want drop in since I'm not a skilled mechanic.

Would a dead miss from a bad wire/plug cause this sort of noise?

I;m not a mechanic obviously so I'll try and get it checked but are there things a novice can do to help diagnose?

I'm past the point of racing just want stock should I pack away the numbers engine and find something already rebuilt?

Thank you in advance for any input. Anyone know of a good shop in central Ohio just in case I need it?

[Brian D'Amico]

To see if it's a rod knock... start the engine and tgry to find out which side the sound is coming from. Once you can locate which side (lets say it's coming from the drivers side).. shut off the motor & pull the #1 spark plug wire. Start the car and see if it's still knocking.. if so, go to #3... continue this process until the knock disappears.. If you can make the knock go away by pulling the plg wire.. then it's a spun rod bearing.

I just finished a rebuild on my 67 400 and I did all the labor myself (with help of friends) Parts and machine work came out to approx. $2800 bucks!! ..and I had to assemble it myself and put it back in the car too. It ain't cheap.
I live right outside of Columbus.. and I'm having to do a 2nd rebuild because of a defect in my block... This time I'm taking it to a shop here in town.
The best place to go is Hillards Performance outside of Springfield. Dave is a Pontiac guru!! He and his dad (Jim) are GREAT and they will treat you right. All they work on and race is Pontiacs. Dave has a 67 GTO that he races and he came in 1st place this year at Norwalk!! He's doing my #2 rebuild as we speak!

His number is 937-244-1111. Tell him Brian D'Amico sent you.

I wish you luck.. This board is a great place to find help and asking for advice.. Let us know what you find out!!

[ctgross]

oz07, auto or 4-sp? If an auto..check the bolts on the flexplate. If even one is slightly loose it will make a knocking noise that sounds much like a loose rod. Hope this helps.

[Rugratman]

Check the exhaust manifold bolts too...
Did you change the valley pan?

[oz07]

No pan changes just intake and I did have the exhaust maifold bolts off. So, I'll check all those things this evening. The strange thing is you can "feel" the knock over the entire engine when you hold something againt it - the intake, water pump, ac compressor, anything bolted to the engine but the noise itself is faint.

[oz07]

Thanks Brian - I have read some of your posts sorry to hear about another rebuild for you. Thanks for the info I'll definitly give them a call when I decide what I'm doing. Wow - I was not even close to thinking $3k plus - I was hoping somewhere around half of that. If that is the diagnosis it may very well be the thing that forces me to sell it can only afford so much for something that sits for 90% of the time.

[Brian D'Amico]

My engine was on it's original bore and it needed a completed overhaul.. The machine work alone was close to 1600 bucks. Add in parts and the "little" things and it's very easy to climb that ladder!! I got sucked into the typical "while I'm in here I might as well replace......" It makes sense to do so, but it it's either going to cost you now or later. I wish you the best.. Let me know if you need anything else.. I've gain a wealth of knowledge by doing this TWICE!! Good luck !! BTW.. Dave Hillard is on this board. His ID is 1050goat. Shoot him a PM

[GTOGreg]

I have my 67 original motor out for rebuild now too, and I've asked myself the very same questions you have - to keep the motor in or retire it? I decided to keep the motor in there in case I decide to sell the car. I'm not going to be racing it or doing anything extreme. Rebuilds are expensive so if I'm doing it, it's going to be on the keeper motor. I'm sending my motor (today I hope) to Ken Brewer at Pacific Performance Racing. He puts the motors on a dyno and runs them in, which to me is a value-added service as I want the motor to be ready to install once here. As Brian said, you will drop some cheddar on these rebuilds. I hope it turns out not to be a rod so you can drive it and put your money elsewhere. The only other thing I would say you should check, is to make sure your #5 and #7 plug wires are NOT crossing and interfering with each other. They need to run parallel, if not it can induce a knocking sound due to erratic cylinder firing. Good luck!

[Cardo]

Give Kauffman Brothers a call too... Definately the Pontiac Guru's, good guys to work with and reasonable on their prices. They're up near Mt. Vernon.