[Roarin 400]

i replaced the clutch this week, adjusted it with the specs given in the manual, and the clutch wont fully disengage.
i pulled the little rubber stopper on the clutch pedal to get a little more travel out of the pedal and readjusted the clutch and now it disengages fine. the pedal sits up a little higher than the brake pedal and i dont feel like this should be a permanent fix. after reading through some of the old posts i was thinking that i would order an adjustable pivot ball to solve this problem. i just wanted to make sure the pivot ball would be the proper fix before i go ripping stuff apart and ordering new pats.

[HWYSTR455]

I've found in both the 2nd gen F and 68-72 A bodies I've had the listing for the throw out most have is wrong. I've always gone with the shortest throw out bearing available, and then adjust from there. I bet I would get a little bit better leaverage in a couple cases where I used a particular pressure plate, but I still started with the shorties. On the 2nd gen I have, using the shortie, I put a bolt in to replace the rubber bumper, so I could adjust it closer to the floor. I put a short piece of fuel line over it to act as a bumper so it didn't vibrate at a light. Also, I drilled a hole about 1 inch above the existing hole in the bell crank, where the pushrod that goes to the fork mounts. This increased the throw, and I have a considerably shorter pedal throw. Oops, sorry, rambled there a little!

[PITTSBURGH 64]

Did you wipe the oil off the new pressure plate with lacquer thinner.

[Roarin 400]

cleaned the PP and flywheel with brake clean, dont see why that would effect the clutch disengagement in this scenario.
wouldnt you want a longer t/o bearing in my case, over a short one? stil curious if the adjustable pivot ball will solve this problem.

[HWYSTR455]

Check the other post you started on this, others have replied there.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=479728


Cleaning, no, wouldn't effect your throw or engagement issue, just good practice. As for the adjustment, how much thread is showing on the rod? do you have a pretty good retaining spring on the fork to hold the rod? Have you tried loosening the adjustment? You mentioned you turned it in a a certain number of turns in the other thread, so, first, it sounds it could be adjusted in more.

Adjustable fork ball, again, that's usually used in aftermarket housings, and shouldn't be required with a factory one.

Let's just say for example, if you hold the fork as far forward as it goes, turn the rod in as far as to have about 1/8 - 1/4 inch gap from the fork cup, where's the pedal then? Can you still use the rubber bumper? Or does it take up the slack to a point where pressure is on the fork? If that's the case, then yes, you need a shorter throwout. Remember, as long as you have enough throw to completely disengage the clutch in one direction, and allow for full engagement in the other, then the throwout is good. If you loose throw, it's too long.

[HWYSTR455]

Hm, not sure I explained that well. Instead of all the way forward, like, just so it's touching the throwout, and you can slide the fork up & down some. If there's any pressure on the throwout from the fork, it's too tight.

[RAIV55]

Originally Posted by Roarin 400

i replaced the clutch this week, adjusted it with the specs given in the manual, and the clutch wont fully disengage.
i pulled the little rubber stopper on the clutch pedal to get a little more travel out of the pedal and readjusted the clutch and now it disengages fine. the pedal sits up a little higher than the brake pedal and i dont feel like this should be a permanent fix. after reading through some of the old posts i was thinking that i would order an adjustable pivot ball to solve this problem. i just wanted to make sure the pivot ball would be the proper fix before i go ripping stuff apart and ordering new pats.

Without more particulars i'm maybe shooting in the dark. I've had issues in the past with Borg&Beck type rebuilt pressure plates. There are different finger ratios avalable and some rebuilders use them indescrimantly. The next thing I've seen is the finger heights aren't set properly and the nuts not staked into place. That is a couple of reasons I by-pass rebuilt units. Last item isn't common but worth checking. Mike the disc thickness, if the marcel (wavy disc between the frictions) isn't uniform it can cause the disc not to release cleanly.

The Z-bar on GMs are heat treated/hardened, it takes determination and a carbide bit to relocate the holes.

[Roarin 400]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Check the other post you started on this, others have replied there.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=479728


Cleaning, no, wouldn't effect your throw or engagement issue, just good practice. As for the adjustment, how much thread is showing on the rod? do you have a pretty good retaining spring on the fork to hold the rod? Have you tried loosening the adjustment? You mentioned you turned it in a a certain number of turns in the other thread, so, first, it sounds it could be adjusted in more.

Adjustable fork ball, again, that's usually used in aftermarket housings, and shouldn't be required with a factory one.

Let's just say for example, if you hold the fork as far forward as it goes, turn the rod in as far as to have about 1/8 - 1/4 inch gap from the fork cup, where's the pedal then? Can you still use the rubber bumper? Or does it take up the slack to a point where pressure is on the fork? If that's the case, then yes, you need a shorter throwout. Remember, as long as you have enough throw to completely disengage the clutch in one direction, and allow for full engagement in the other, then the throwout is good. If you loose throw, it's too long.

right now, there is no rubber stop on the pedal, i had to take it out to have more throw to disengage the clutch, it didnt matter what i did with the rubber stop in, the clutch wouldnt disengage, im gona crawl back under it today if i have some time and tool around with some of these ideas.

[HWYSTR455]

Cool, let me know what you find, I'm curious!

[Shadowjack]

It really sounds like you got a tall TO bearing when you should have had the short one.

[Roarin 400]

well.. im gona pull the trans sometime this week if i get time after school, ill check out the t/o bearing and see if its the same as the old one.