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#1
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69 GTO Front End Rebuild
Should I try this myself or source it out? Control arm bushings are all rotted out so why not redo it all. I've heard horror stories of coil spring accidents and other problems. I am familiar with general front end repairs having done ball joints, brakes, tie rods etc.. Have all the tools I need, compressor, heavy duty axle stands, floor jacks, even an engine lift if I need it. Don't want to start if I can't finish. I've rebuilt engines on my own, but this scares me a little!
Last edited by FNFGTO; 01-18-2006 at 10:49 PM. |
#2
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Quote:
Good luck. jamie
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The joker in the deck keeps sending me his card. Smiling friendly, he takes me in. Then breaks my back in a game I can't win. |
#3
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I would do as the above post mentioned...It's not bad and you can do it..You may have to buy or borrow a ball joint fork and a spring compressor...I think there are 2 sizes of forks ones bigger than the other...large one is for the ball joints. small one is for the link joints.
Anyway, I put a safety chain through the spring and wraped it snug around the frame, so it won't pop out and get me. Read this post it can be helpful and research the old posts and you WILL find all the info. you need. http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthr...spring+removal Hope this helps, Anthony
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I do it right cause' I do it twice. |
#4
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I did mine a couple of years ago. Up to that point, a brake job was as deep as I'd been. No sweat. Read this link Front end rebuild 101 I dropped a piece of rebar down through my coil spring to secure it, but never really needed it. HAD it popped, I'm sure I would have had an immediate heart attack. Do it yourself........
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#5
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Great advice guys! I'll certainly review those other threads. BTW I have the two different size joint forks, knew I would use them again someday.
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#6
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Here's what the spring compressor looks like. You'll need it to install the spring back in. Use a chain to hold the spring together before taking the ball joints loose.
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GoatDr Last edited by GoatDr; 04-17-2008 at 10:33 PM. |
#7
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Free rental at schucks and autozone just deposit.
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#8
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I jack the car up by the frame, letting the spring load the lower control arm, loosen the ball joint nuts about a 1/8 inch each, and a few taps with a hammer separate the ball joints, and you don't need the forks (except for the ite rod). You know it's separated when you hear the pop...
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#9
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Oh, to add one thing, when putting it back together, swab a little anti-seize in the ball joint stud holes, so in the future it's even easier...(works with tie rods too)..
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#10
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This sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. If you break the ball jonts loose, you must support the lower control arm. If you have the car supported by the frame without supporting the BOTTOM OF THE ARM, when you break the ball joint free THE SPRING WILL FLY OUT AND KILL YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This isn't a upper/lower ball joint job or just upper control arm bushings. If you plan on breaking the ball joints free, you must have the weight of the car on the lower arms, meaning having jack stands under the control arms. If you are replacing the lower control arms, there is a way to unload the spring without a spring compressor, but I'm not going to tell you how to do it. The way you unload a coil spring is with the tool shown in the picture posted by goatdoc. You compress the spring, break the balls, then remove the control arm. |
#11
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KYB
A lot of people talk about the KYB shocks and I'm ready to replace the front on my 69 bird (350 eng). Should i use GR2 or gas a just?
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#12
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STS- I'm guessing your comments are in response to my post? Did you actually READ my post? Are you suggesting that the ball joint stud would/could break? If it's that old, the spring is probably stock, and not much of a load anyway. It's not going to fly out, and it's not going to kill you. Period. Have you ever weight-balanced a car? Had to trim the front springs several times before getting the proper hieght or wieght? Do you know what a fork does to a ball joint boot? Regardless, explain to me exactly how the spring would fly out and kill someone, following the suggestions I made?
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#13
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Make sure and use a quality ball joint like from NAPA. There is a difference from some of the chain store ones.
Mule |
#14
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I'm about to do the same
I am about to replace all front end parts on my 68 GTO. It sounds like I have about the same level of experience and I would not never dream of taking it to a shop (except for the alignment). I feel there is no one who will do as good a job as myself. Stay in touch through the process and we can share our experience. I plan to start this Saturday February 4
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It's better to burn out, than fade away. |
#15
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Probably won't start until the end of the month, but will check in later with an update.
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#16
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How are you guys doing on your front end rebuilds? I am going to start on my 65 GTO front suspension next saturday and I have never done this before. I would appreciate any info on what to expect and any tips that would help me.
Thanks , Dave |
#17
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Read the link I posted. Its a dirty job that is not that bad if you take a few basic safety precautions and take your time.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#18
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Front End Update
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/s...066/front.html
Well I started the front end rebuild on my 68 GTO this past weedend and it went well. The above link Front End Rebuild 101 was very helpful. At this point I have all the parts removed and need to have the control arm bushings pressed in and out. Does any one know what type of lube is used for this and where does it go? Is it just for pressing the new bushings in, and is it used anywhere once you bolt them on to the car? I am replacing with all stock parts (rubber bushings, moog parts). After I have the control arm bushings pressed out I plan on painting the arms and all the other front end parts. I plan on using the POR 15 products does anyone have any experience with this product? Can I brush this product on and how does it hold up? Thanks for the help and I will try to take some pictures and post.
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It's better to burn out, than fade away. |
#19
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I would have a front end shop press the the bushings and lower ball joints on for you. The lower control arms can be bent if you don't have the right equipment. POR15 is great stuff. Clean and sand as needed and just brush it on. You'll be amazed at how smooth it dries and it is very tough as long as it is not exposed to direct sunlight. The POR15 people even sell cheap brushes. I left my ball joints, tie rods and other parts natural. I used Energy Suspension bushings and worked their lube (came with the bushings) into the bushings by hand. I think there were slots in the bushing for this purpose. Its been a year or two and I'm old.........
Did you take your tie rods and center link out as a unit? If not, did you take some measurements so you can rough it back together fairly closely like it was? I had a ball doing my rebuild and it still looks and drives great after a few thousand miles and a couple of years.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#20
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__________________
frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
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