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  #1  
Old 12-05-2001, 10:31 PM
pontiactom pontiactom is offline
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I have four wheel drum brakes on my 67 Catilina Wagon(I know "put some disk on that thing", trust me I've been checking the bone yards). The drivers side front drum is causing a lot of drag. I have adjusted them, but they tightened right back up when I drove drive around the block. I bent the adjuster screw out so it contacts the outer most tooth on the star wheel, didn't work. It is definitely the correct adjuster screw. I then re-adjusted the drum, drove in reverse for 5 feet and forward for 5 more, jacked the wheel up and it was already dragging, a lot. My wheel cylinders are about three months old. I checked my brake line, looks good. I know that sometimes a line could be bad and let fluid out, but not back in. But will it still look good from the outside. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Any suggestions on cars with disk brakes that I could adapt to mine?

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  #2  
Old 12-05-2001, 10:31 PM
pontiactom pontiactom is offline
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I have four wheel drum brakes on my 67 Catilina Wagon(I know "put some disk on that thing", trust me I've been checking the bone yards). The drivers side front drum is causing a lot of drag. I have adjusted them, but they tightened right back up when I drove drive around the block. I bent the adjuster screw out so it contacts the outer most tooth on the star wheel, didn't work. It is definitely the correct adjuster screw. I then re-adjusted the drum, drove in reverse for 5 feet and forward for 5 more, jacked the wheel up and it was already dragging, a lot. My wheel cylinders are about three months old. I checked my brake line, looks good. I know that sometimes a line could be bad and let fluid out, but not back in. But will it still look good from the outside. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Any suggestions on cars with disk brakes that I could adapt to mine?

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  #3  
Old 12-05-2001, 11:09 PM
steveola steveola is offline
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Replace the hoses. I wouldn't have believed it either.

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  #4  
Old 12-05-2001, 11:33 PM
78 GHOST 78 GHOST is offline
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I agree and would go one step further in verifying the shoes are correct (1 primary 1 secondary and proper orientation).

The issue of conversions are well covered in the archives regarding different options available. There are numerous ways to go depending on your desires and your de$ire$.

IMHO, if I were converting a drum car to disc..I would go with Hotchkiss upper A-arms to improve handling, polyurethane bushings, tall F-body spindles with the biggest rotors I could find, short of high $$$ Baer. You can put together a killer setup for less than $2000 for rotors and calipers alone. I would go with all new braided lines, calipers and pads designed to work with the rotors.

I would spec out the best master cylinder to suit the system, and usage. For safety, I would definetly install a dual reservoir M/C to ensure a failure in the M/C doesn't leave me without brakes.

The power booster is redone to new specs. I would also install an adjustable proportoning valve to properly bias braking forces.

Incidental to this would be a complete front end rebuild while all the pieces are apart. On your '67, you could slap a set of anti-sway bars and new springs all around and you would be driving a whole different animal.

It sounds way too involved for a simple sticking drum, and I know what a hassle it is to get those front drums off but you need to get the brakes up to par with the 455's power output.

Just my .02 -Matt [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img]

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  #5  
Old 12-06-2001, 02:05 AM
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Blackcat Blackcat is offline
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You sure that you have the adjusters on the right way? The large shoe goes on the back of the drum and the short the front. The adjusters also mount on the back shoe.

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  #6  
Old 12-06-2001, 12:42 PM
stu stu is offline
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I have had a bunch of trouble with my 78 and 79 F bodies rear drums, only really fixed one so far but it took new drums, cylinders, shoes, ALL hardware including adjusters, axle seals, emergency brake cables, and hoses. I had warped drums, weak springs, sticky cables, leaky seals, and dragging adjusters. All contributed to uneven/poor braking. So basically all parts go in the trash.

  #7  
Old 12-06-2001, 01:29 PM
pontiactom pontiactom is offline
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Thanks for the info guys.

I forgot to mention that the first time I apply the brakes after adjusting them they pull to the left.

About 3-4 months ago I replaced the following: wheel cylinders, all springs, adjusting foot, adjusting screws, pads, drums were turned, I also pulled the backing plates off, sand blasted and painted them. Put every thing back together and they worked great(as good as it can get w/a 455 and 4500lbs).

This problem just started in the past couple of weeks.

I can't find any brake lines for 67 in my Performance Years "Full Size" catalog. They are in my Ames catalog. They're not cheap. 65 bucks for the front steel lines and 40 for the 2 rubber high presure hoses.

I going to go ahead and replace both while a have it apart.

Its a shame cause they're coming right off when I find some disk.

Any body want some slightly used brake brake lines in the next couple of months for a 67-68 big car.

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  #8  
Old 12-07-2001, 07:10 PM
Jason H Jason H is offline
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Did you try some white grease on the back part of the shoe that comes in contact with the backing plate? The shoes might be getting cought on the backing plate when you hit the pedal and once you release the pedal the shoes are not coming back in.

Jason

  #9  
Old 12-07-2001, 07:34 PM
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KS circutguy KS circutguy is offline
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Replace the brake hoses.

I've encountered the same problem countless times when working with 'older' vehicles..

Or you could just buy a new Pontiac,I do believe they still come with new brakes and new brake components,including new hoses.. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]
http://photo.starblvd.net/zanko20

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  #10  
Old 12-07-2001, 08:23 PM
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Do the hoses and rebleed the system. I also have had the insides of the flex lines collapse. Makes for some strange breaking probs. Like wheels locking/not releasing/ pulling.

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