[PontiacCrazy]

Please excuse the use of the F word here (FORD)..

I don't know how many are familiar with the company IPSChassis.Com, but they happen to be based here in my hometown, and I am good friends with the owner, Corey Shaw. What Corey does for Ford Mustangs, is amazing, although the background of the company is A little curious. Well, I got to talking to him about pontiac suspension, and the wheels in his head began to turn.

Here's what he wants to do, and tell me what you think about the results..

1) The brace that goes between the framerails that ties the car-end of the upper control arms - gone. Cut off.
2) The coil mounts on the axle - cut off.
3) Where the upper control arms used to attach to the center of the differential is no longer where they attach. A new mount for the upper control arm is placed close to the end of the axle tube.
4) Lower control arm mount remains in place.
5) new upper and lower control arms are fabricated from heavy steel tube.
6) New brace is fabricated from same heavy steel tube and fitted between frame rails.
7) New upper control arms now run paralell to new lower control arms.
8)Tabs are welded to axle tubes further in from original coil spring perch.
9) HAL coil-over shocks added in exchange for removal of stock coils and shocks.
10) An 'axle-truss' is fabricated, attaches to rear end (at the diff cover) by two bolts and to the frame (I think) to keep axle movement to a minimum.
11) All RUBBER bushings are used at control arm points. No polyurethane here.

For A seriously reduced price tag (and allowing him to use my chassis for specs which allows him to start manufacturing A-body systems) he will do this. Can anyone examine the proposed geometry here and give me some thoughts? Will aligning the upper and lower control arms and stabilizing the rear end effectively help "plant" the rear more?

On A SN-95 Ford Mustang (drivetrain unknown) this setup reduces 60 foot times by .40 seconds. (2.20-1.80)

Thanks.

BTW This is 1970 Pontiac LeMans 3.55:1 posi rear.

[PontiacCrazy]

Please excuse the use of the F word here (FORD)..

I don't know how many are familiar with the company IPSChassis.Com, but they happen to be based here in my hometown, and I am good friends with the owner, Corey Shaw. What Corey does for Ford Mustangs, is amazing, although the background of the company is A little curious. Well, I got to talking to him about pontiac suspension, and the wheels in his head began to turn.

Here's what he wants to do, and tell me what you think about the results..

1) The brace that goes between the framerails that ties the car-end of the upper control arms - gone. Cut off.
2) The coil mounts on the axle - cut off.
3) Where the upper control arms used to attach to the center of the differential is no longer where they attach. A new mount for the upper control arm is placed close to the end of the axle tube.
4) Lower control arm mount remains in place.
5) new upper and lower control arms are fabricated from heavy steel tube.
6) New brace is fabricated from same heavy steel tube and fitted between frame rails.
7) New upper control arms now run paralell to new lower control arms.
8)Tabs are welded to axle tubes further in from original coil spring perch.
9) HAL coil-over shocks added in exchange for removal of stock coils and shocks.
10) An 'axle-truss' is fabricated, attaches to rear end (at the diff cover) by two bolts and to the frame (I think) to keep axle movement to a minimum.
11) All RUBBER bushings are used at control arm points. No polyurethane here.

For A seriously reduced price tag (and allowing him to use my chassis for specs which allows him to start manufacturing A-body systems) he will do this. Can anyone examine the proposed geometry here and give me some thoughts? Will aligning the upper and lower control arms and stabilizing the rear end effectively help "plant" the rear more?

On A SN-95 Ford Mustang (drivetrain unknown) this setup reduces 60 foot times by .40 seconds. (2.20-1.80)

Thanks.

BTW This is 1970 Pontiac LeMans 3.55:1 posi rear.

[Todd]

[This message has been edited by Todd (edited 07-18-2000).]

[PontiacCrazy]

okay, good point, but what (minor mods) are you talking about? Nobody seems to have told me any specifics, just (minor mods)..

Thanks.

[Old Man Taylor]

I think it would be a big help for you to tell us what your drive train is and what you want to do with the car. I have a “stock” suspension on my ’64 GTO. It has a nitrous-assisted 428 with a 4 spd and a 4.33 posi. It ran 10.80 with 9” slicks. The main thing you need to worry about is strength and minimizing flex. I have after market lower control arms, although you could box the ones you have. I have the front support that ties the front mounting points from the upper control arm to the lower control arm together. I also reinforced this piece so it would not go out of round or break. I had small plates welded onto the K member where the uppers bolt on. They fit into a recess, and that part tries to pull away from the main member which can result in cracking it. I welded the bushings into the upper arms, as I had one tear out once. I also run air bags in the coil springs, with the right one set higher than the left one. I have not tried the “no hop” bars, or any other altering of the factory instant center. The car could hook better, but this works pretty well.

------------------
Jim

[Blackcat]

Unless you are serious about going fast. I would save my money and do a suspension rebuild/upgrade. Replace the bushings. Install boxed control arms. Add a rear swaybar. You will be amazed at the difference it will cause. The 68-72 chassis
had better reinforcing on the control arm mounts compaired to the 64-67 chassis. I would also install the bracket that connects the upper/lower control arm mounts. It is found on all preformance A-bodys. I believe Preformance years also sells them.

[Scott Misus]

He can't just install an aftermarket four link; he'd have to cut the stock floor to clear the nearly horizontal upper bars, not to mention how long the upper bars would be. I addition, the frame would have to be kicked up and over to provide clearance for the upper four link bars. It may be easier to just raise the front upper mounts and lower the rear lower mounts.

Ed Schnertz Racing makes these, I think.