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#1
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I went to put my rockers on last night and I torqed the ball retaining nut down and it didn't come close to securing the rocker down. Is there something wrong with my rocker arms or is it something with the stud??
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#2
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I went to put my rockers on last night and I torqed the ball retaining nut down and it didn't come close to securing the rocker down. Is there something wrong with my rocker arms or is it something with the stud??
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#3
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What kind of studs, nuts, & washers are you using?
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![]() SECOND AMENDMENT: AMERICA'S ORIGINAL HOMELAND SECURITY! |
#4
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Check the stud and see if it has pulled out of the head. Compare the height. Also make sure that the pushrod is sitting in the lifter.
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http://ultimategto.com/rest05cars1.htm |
#5
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ALSO check the nut, I had some that had stress fractures in them. This actually allowed them to go further doen the stud that they should have. Someone in the past had over-torqued them and caused them to split. Just inspect all parts including pushrod. It may be bent, too.
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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Specifications of my car : -std 455(6x heads milled) -3-tube headers into 2.5" flowmaster mandrel bent full exhaust -Performer intake with a 650cfm edelbrock AVS carb -Summit 2802 camshaft (465/.488 224/2 |
#6
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It looks to me like either you left out the rocker arm pivot, or the nut is incorrect. It should use a nut with an 11/16 hex and go on easy until it reaches the "bottleneck" portion of the stud.
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#7
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They are the nut and ball set from Summit, so I'm pretty sure they are correct. I definitely didn't leave out the pivot ball. I tighten the nut down until the ball seats on the shoulder of the stud.
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#8
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OK....I see the problem. That is a Chevy nut and pivot. The chevy SB is a 3/8 and the pont. is a stepped stud with a 3/8 top and a 7/16 bottom. You can use the chevy nut, but must stay with the original pivot. It is not good to mix up the pivots once they break in to the corresponding rocker. If using the chevy nut, it makes it an adjustable valve train, but you usually have to have some kind of spacer under the nut.
How large is the cam? If it is stock or close to it, just go back with the non adjustable nut and torque it to factory specs. |
#9
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From the view with the ruler it appears that stud is about 1/4 inch pulled out of the head compared to the one next to it.
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67 Firebird 400 Convertible (sold) |
#10
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The pivot ball needs to be able to slide over the shoulder and down the non-threaded portion of the stud (7/16").
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'68 Firebird 463/pump gas/SD 325 E-heads/266-272 SR cam/1050 Dominator/3.73/ET Street Radials/1.37 60'/6.30@108.80/9.93@135.14 Hot Rod Drag Week finishing averages: 2014 - 11.12 @ 118.56 2015 - 10.84 @ 124.97 2016 - 10.56 @ 127.88 2017 - 10.29 @ 130.74 2018 - 10.29 @ 130.53 2019 - 10.16 @ 132.34 2021 - 10.09 @ 132.69 2022 - 10.13 @ 133.07 9.93 run - https://youtu.be/hII0_UlYM4U ![]() |
#11
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So what your saying is that I have the right nuts (3/8") but the pivot ball (3/8") needs to be 7/16"??
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#12
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Yes, the ball should be 7/16 and fit over the bottleneck. The nut should seat on the shoulder.
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#13
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I saw that red bird on Ebay. Did you buy it?
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10C 1972 Formula 461 non A/C 08B 1969 GP J/428 non A/C |
#14
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As the other posts said, you have to use 7/16 rocker balls. You can use the 3/8 adjustable nuts with hardened washers under them so you can adjust your valves. You also can use 3/8 polly locks to make them adjustable and not have to use washers. Or you can use your original nuts and just tighten them down.
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http://ultimategto.com/rest05cars1.htm |
#15
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Thanks for the input guys, it is greatly appreciated.
Greyno3: Nope, I didn't buy the bird on E-bay, I've had it for about a year.
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