[Rob79]

Just fired up the 400 9.5 comp 4 core radiator flowkooler water pump 180 stat. new sending unit (located in head ) gage in car is reading 220 a laser pointer temp gage aimed at the stat housing is reading 180. Seeing mimimal flow through radiator. like the stat is only slightly open. Fresh rebuild new pump , rad, stat and hoses. Is my gage wrong or is there that much of a difference in coolant temp between the stat and the head? should I relocated the sending unit to the intake? The sending unit is close to the header and exaust ports.
Thanks
Rob

[Rob79]

Just fired up the 400 9.5 comp 4 core radiator flowkooler water pump 180 stat. new sending unit (located in head ) gage in car is reading 220 a laser pointer temp gage aimed at the stat housing is reading 180. Seeing mimimal flow through radiator. like the stat is only slightly open. Fresh rebuild new pump , rad, stat and hoses. Is my gage wrong or is there that much of a difference in coolant temp between the stat and the head? should I relocated the sending unit to the intake? The sending unit is close to the header and exaust ports.
Thanks
Rob

[Rob79]

Got a few hundred miles on car temp is reading steady at 220 idle or cruise. would still like to hear from you guys about this.
Thanks
Rob

[mike nixon]

change the stat and see what happens. if the temp changes the stat opens a little warm for my taste.personally i'd put a 160 in it. if the temp doesn't change i'd look at the air fuel ratio as it's probably lean. the diff between the rad and the block sounds about normal to me. mike

[Bob Dillon]

Move the sensing unit to the intake. That's the coolant temp as water moves into the engine. Of course it will read hotter at the cylinder head location.

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Never been banned here,
Never WILL be,
Because I'VE got manners!

[llucas]

Actually, I believe that the water in the intake is water coming FROM the engine.

[Old Man Taylor]

llucas - You are correct.

[Old Man Taylor]

Rob79 - I would verify your water temperature. Either check it with another gauge, or put a thermometer in the radiator. You cannot go by an external temperature reading (your laser device) because it is not reading water temperature. If the temperature is actually 220, there is something fundamentally wrong. It could be mixture, timing or water pump related. If it was my car, I would move the sensor to the intake because I know what tempertaure to expect there. I do not know what it would read at the head, but 220 still sounds high.

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Jim

[Rob79]

Changed to the 160 stat last week and it brought the temp gage down to about 200. Water temp of coolant in radiator as measured with the laser gadget is about 150. Still dont have much faith in the factory 20+ year old gage. Need to hook up another gage and see.
As some of you have been reading in the street section (Power Here and gone) I am haveing a performance drop off after the car gets hot.

Jim I dont know if your have checked in on my other post lately but I am looking for info on blocking my exaust crossover and was hoping you could give me some insight. Actually I would like too hear from anyone who has done this.

Back to the cooling topic
If I want to connect the rear water ports to the front like was suggested to me in the street section. Can I plumb from the rear ports to the threaded ports in the watercrossover on my performer manifold? Also That would rule out putting the temp sending unit there if I connected to both front ports. Do I need to run both rears to both fronts or can I just cross the driverside rear to the pass. side front. The pass side rear has the feed to the heater core attached I would have to run a tee.
Thanks
Rob

[Old Man Taylor]

Rob - My fear of your power loss is that it might be due to the piston to wall clearance being too close. If this is true, it will eventually wear in, but it might take a long time. I had this in the "olden days" when I was talked into having the piston skirts expanded (knurled) on a cheap rebuild. I could not turn the engine over with one 12 volt battery, and when I did get it started it ran very hot. Once the knurled edges wore down it was OK, and it lasted a long time. Exhaust – I was never happy unless I had the ports welded in the heads. I tried blocked gaskets but they burn out very quickly. I have heard of Devcon being used in the manifold, then a blocked gasket. That way the gasket isn’t flexing back and forth. Also, You can grind off the cross over passage of the manifold and replace it with a block of aluminum. If your issue is just a mismatch, I have not had to deal with that so I cannot give any recommendations. On the water issue – Yes, you can plumb it into the threaded holes in the manifold, but it will be awfully Mickey Mouse. If you must, “T” it then just use one of the threaded holes so you can place a temperature sender in the other one. I have mine going into a “T” and entering the manifold in one fitting, but it points towards the front of the car, not up and down.

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Jim

[Rob79]

Installed an aftermarket temp gage in car today. With the sending unit in the watercrossover. Car is running a steady 170 to 180. If I romp on it for a while it will climb to 190 but as soon as I go back to normal cruise or idle it comes back down. At this point I dont think I need to tie the rear ports to the front. I may even try going back to the 180 stat.
Any thoughts from anyone?
Rob