[genobarone]

Well, my 1970 gto convertible was stripped down for restoration for two months.

Body work is done, engine work is done. The engine strts and runs beautifully, but as I tried to get any thing else electrical to work it's all dead!

Headlights, interior lights, taillights, convertible top, nothing .....

The electrical stuff is my only weak point. What am I missing? I replaced two blown fuses and the circuit breaker for the convertible top, but no other changes.

The only thing I can think of is I installed a bad (New) alternator that had a short in it. It shorted against my valve cover and made one hell of a spark and smoke when I connected the battery for the first time.

What do you think guys?

[genobarone]

Well, my 1970 gto convertible was stripped down for restoration for two months.

Body work is done, engine work is done. The engine strts and runs beautifully, but as I tried to get any thing else electrical to work it's all dead!

Headlights, interior lights, taillights, convertible top, nothing .....

The electrical stuff is my only weak point. What am I missing? I replaced two blown fuses and the circuit breaker for the convertible top, but no other changes.

The only thing I can think of is I installed a bad (New) alternator that had a short in it. It shorted against my valve cover and made one hell of a spark and smoke when I connected the battery for the first time.

What do you think guys?

[george kujanski]

Sounds like what you did was let the output stud (which is connected to the battery) touch the valve cover. You may have blown the fusible link in the harness, and that harness feeds everything.

Its usually a piece of smaller wire in the harness at the rear of the driver's side valve cover where the alternator output cable and battery feed from the starter get spliced together into the harness.

Geo

[genobarone]

George,

I was at the body shop all day, and didn't log on until now. Painted the car and it looks great!

You are exactly the guy I was hoping would answer me, I read all your stuff, you are the man.

I will check it out tomorrow and let you know, thanks!

[genobarone]

George (and guys)

Well, I don't think it's the fusible link, they look good to me. They would have burned away, right?

They even seem to have power, what else can it be? You think something is fried, or can some connector be loose?

[george kujanski]

so, you can start the car with the key and it runs? At least power is getting up to the dash side. I'll check the diagram and get back to you. The lights are not working, right?

Good looking paint job BTW!

geo

[genobarone]

George,

Man, don't you sleep?? Ha!

Thanks on the paint job, It has been a ton of wet sanding and such to get it as perfect as I can get it.

It runs and drives fine, I hope it's something stupid my friend.

No lights, front or rear, no power top, no nothing.

This connector was not labeled when I reassemble the motor, any idea what it goes to?

[Dryseals]

Its a long shot and probably not the cause but are the grounds from the frame to the body in place?

[george kujanski]

Here's a link to a '70 wiring diagram. It shows 2 fusible links going into the bulkhead connector, one of which is for the lighting.
http://forums.performanceyears.com/g...2&r=8226040322

Geo

[johnta1]

Have you checked for 12 volts at the light switch?

I would unplug the bulkhead connecter and check for misalignment and re-install.
½ of the engine side bulkhead connecter is for the lights,power top,etc. I belive. So I don't think you are getting the power to the inside.

Check for 12 volts on the engine side of the bulkhead connecter also.

[genobarone]

OK,

1. Are you saying that there might be another link that is not in the photo I have listed above, George? If there is one, I can't see it, unless it is very close to the bulkhead connector.

2. Ground straps - frame to body are installed, BUT they are over freshly painted surfaces, problem?

3. How in the world would I get to that engine side bulkhead connector now? That is a tight fit. I can barely get my hand in there.

4. How would I check for power there? Pull the harness?

4. The voltage regulator should not contribute to this at all, right? The one I replaced looked OK to me, but was an original piece.

You guys rule!

[george kujanski]

John's got the right idea, tho. Since you reassembled everything, perhaps you are not making good electrical connections between the bulkhead connector halves.

I don't know where the lighting link is exactly, but the reason I've mentioned it is you stated that you shorted the battery lione momentarily on the valve cover. Coould be you also may have a poor connection as mentioned.

As John suggests check for battery voltage at the light switch. Armed with the diagram you can chase the wire back towards the firewall connector to find out where you're losing it.

Ground wires need a good metal-to-metal contact to work. Use a star lockwasher to get a good bite under the ring terminals.

To check the harness you will need a voltmeter or a test light (12V bulb with 2 wires; one wire to ground, the other used to probe. If it lights, you have battery voltage.) You can prob buy a simple test light at autozone or NAPA.

I don't know how you should get to the connector now...take contortionist lessons? LOL!

I'm just glad I can sit here and suggest how YOU should do it, and not have to do it myself! LOL

Geo

[1970cat]

the two bulkhead parts on the engine side of the connector slide together and then bolt to the interior part of the connector. perhaps one of the two engine sides of the connector is not aligned properly with the other half causing a poor connection as johnta1 said. there is one screw through the center (5/16 if i remember right) then you can pull the halves apart. the convertible top switch should have three wires. red and dark green go to the top motor and blue to the fuse box.

[genobarone]

OK, now I’m really confused….. After a week of color sanding the car, (Looks amazing, if I say so myself, the best work I’ve done to date) I tackled the electrical problem.

I removed all the grounds on the front harness, sanded the terminal clean, and the metal on the body clean, and re-attached. I also cleaned and re-installed the grounds from the block to the frame for good measure. I cut up my hands, by jamming them between the booster and the firewall to get to the bulkhead connectors and made sure the harnesses were tight.

So, now the convertible top works again!!! And also one and one half headlights work. Yup, I got the outermost drivers side light on, as well as the drivers side marker light to work. And if I turn on the high beams, the inner most passenger side headlight comes on. I changed it to a new one, and it still only works on high beam.

What is going on???? This is why I stick to body work and mechanical work! Seriously, any ideas?

[george kujanski]

If all your grounds are good, the rest should be easy. Since a piece of your high beams work, you are getting power from your dimmer switch. The high beam circuit goes to the high beams on both sides and to the high beam filament on the low beam headlights. Chase it down with a test light or voltmeter. Make sure you have the bulbs in the proper location.

Each bulb has a black wire from it that must be grounded; check all your ground wires to make sure they are in good shape all the way to your grounding point.

Geo

[genobarone]

George,

I just wanted to say thanks! I've been busy re-assembling the car, so I haven't been on in awhile.

Everything works now! There was a damn short in the front harness, and now it's fixed and everything is cool. Plus, I feel alot better about tracking down annoying electrical problems. Thanks my man.