I started using a stretch gauge about 25 years ago. Some of the bolts can be REALLY tricky to get to, with only about 1/4-turn possible without repositioning the wrench. And unless you are a gorilla, you are NOT going to get the proper stretch with a normal boxed-end wrench! I've got some extra-long Snap-On box-end wrenches I use, and still have to wrap rags around the end to keep from making my hands sore.
I've refined my technique over the years. I now measure a rod bolt, remove the gauge and torque it to (for example) 50 - then remeasure the rod length. Then add 5 and repeat until I get the desired stretch. Once I've determined what the magic torque number is, I repeat for another rod bolt - but I again measure the rod before and after to verify. I check every bolt that way, and tweak the magic number as needed as I go along.
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'73 T/A (clone). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 315rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'.
'67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust
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