Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ64GP
I'm breaking the engine down so I can take the block to the machine shop, and the heads to get done as well.
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Engine is out of the car.
If this were in MY garage, I'd forget the torch, the penetrating oil, and the muriatic acid. In other situations, I'm happy to apply an oxy-acetelyne torch to seized/rusted fasteners to aid removal. In this case, I think it's a total waste of effort due to lack of access to the bolt shank.
I'd beat that head with a pry-bar on the intake, and on the exhaust side, until it was up high enough to be off the alignment dowels. It sounds like your nearly there already. Then spin the whole head counter-clockwise which should un-screw the broken bolt shank from the block threads. Once the head is off the block, the broken bolt will be much easier to deal with, potentially including putting the whole head into the "cooker" at the machine shop which heats it to several hundred degrees, then cooling the threads of the bolt some, and using a big nut and washers/spacers to pull the bolt shank from the head casting.