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#1
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F body lowering
So I hit a wall working on the vette yesterday and decided to push it out of the way for a long over due project on my 77 trans am. Lowering the front…….. has sat very high since the day we put new springs in it compounded by a smaller than needed tire it looked stupid. But now it still looks stupid. (Perhaps I’m being slightly dramatic)
Cut the coil spring and loved the look at first, until I saw the back. Looks like it has air shocks on it now. Is anyone still making a drop shackle for this car? Looking around I can up empty. It has old rancho leafs on the back and I’d love to say screw it and order new springs for the rear but I’m being cheap at the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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77 T/A- poncho 400| T-10|3.23| I beams|Hyper flat top pistons|Kre heads|Scorpion rockers|Xr276 hydro roller|Rpm intake|Smi qjet|Subframe connectors|Rancho sways|Mcleod super street|hydro clutch|More i cant remember Last edited by Vroom_vroom; 11-27-2022 at 09:08 PM. |
#2
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F body lowering
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77 T/A- poncho 400| T-10|3.23| I beams|Hyper flat top pistons|Kre heads|Scorpion rockers|Xr276 hydro roller|Rpm intake|Smi qjet|Subframe connectors|Rancho sways|Mcleod super street|hydro clutch|More i cant remember |
#3
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There is not much room to lower using the shackles which is probably why you can't fine them. As long as you do not need to lower more than 1", I would get lowering blocks such as these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all56060
I used the heavier and more expense Calverts but either way, just get ones as close to solid as possible as the mostly open ones will cut up your isolators. Also, I would recommend installing customworks comp axle pad locating kit which is about 2/3's of the way down the page on this link: http://customworksperformance.net/suspension.html
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#4
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Yup, you don't typically lower with shackles. Use a lowering block up to 1". If you need to go lower, you'll want to look at aftermarket spring options.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#5
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Depending upon how much you need to lower it redrilling the front spring mount and cutting a window in it will get you about 1/2 of an inch down, It also improves handling. Herb Adams is the originator of this modification, being he designed the T/A suspension, he knows what works. I did it on my 73 T/A, works nice for autocross. Cost is zero, just a investment in time is all.
Link : https://nastyz28.com/threads/herb-adams-mod.134461/ If that's not enough there are lowering blocks, rather inexpensive, mostly a time investment to install them. |
#6
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Quote:
That said, I think the OP is just after a better looking stance. I'd look to the lowering block myself.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#7
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I bought a stronger (thicker) shackle for road racing from guldstrand back in the day along with being stronger the bolt holes were closer together for a lower ride height
so my advice is check road race suspension outlets and they might not be advertised for lowering |
#8
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The shackles also allow springs with more arc to move properly, they have to match to allow enough movement. Fine-tune the height with blocks, a lot easier than removing the springs each time and guessing. That is, if you like the current ride and rear spring rate.
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#9
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Looks like I will end up with a lowering block till the spring then I will swap all the springs. Too many projects cooking at the moment with different car projects. I wanna put my new tires on there as well before I change the springs to see what I’m looking at. Going to change to a bigger tire up front and that’s going to change things as well as far as gaps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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77 T/A- poncho 400| T-10|3.23| I beams|Hyper flat top pistons|Kre heads|Scorpion rockers|Xr276 hydro roller|Rpm intake|Smi qjet|Subframe connectors|Rancho sways|Mcleod super street|hydro clutch|More i cant remember |
#10
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Bigger, as in taller diameter/profile? It will only raise 1/2 the diameter difference, same with the fender gap. New springs will likely see this all over again, at least at the moment you know where it sits, doesn't matter if due to replace anyway.
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