[672brlbaby]

Today was my first assault on a frame. Went pretty well i thought. This is the pass front mounts. I would like to thank whoever suggested in whatever thread, the $99 makita die grinder 1/4". Got it from Home Depot, some double carbide burr bits from an online shop, and i was done grinding out the old holes in minutes. Am using the Lincoln 3200 welder with gas in my little garage. I did angle the edges on the frame and the washers. One of the driver side mount holes has 2 gaps that are 2 big, so i still have small holes. I will try and jam a piece of copper up in there to hopefully finish the front. Thanks to all again! I love coming here to read!

Jim

[dataway]

Nice work. Blend it a bit with a sanding disk, paint, and it will look good as new.

[dpoltzer]

Nice job 672!! Should be good as new!

[672brlbaby]

Thanks guys! More to go on this frame, but feeling better already!

Jim

[gene simmons]

Looks good!
My 66 lemans needed the same repairs as yours.

Since most of the hole had rusted away,on the outer right side,i used a large socket that was same dia as the original hole,placed the socket against,what was left of the hole in the frame,centered the washer around the socket,then traced it with a black marker. A paint marker could be used,but i didn't have one at the time.

I used a cut off wheel with 1/8" disc,scored along the black mark,tilting inwards,then cut notches from the inside to the outside edge of the marking. After that i used channel locks to pry the notches out,then used a die grinder with a grinding stone to clean up the rough edges.

The newly cut holes in the frame had a chamfer. I also chamfered the washers.
After centering the washers i welded them in.

A dewalt 4" grinder,with a 1/8" grinding disc,was used to grind off the welds.

I also had to repair the body mount holes behind the rear wheels and under the rear glass.

Keep us posted,i would like to see your progress.

Good Job!

[ebgto]

Here's a different method that worked good for me. Got a bi-metal hole saw about the size of the replacement washer. Used another smaller hole saw to cut a piece of oak that fit in the old hole. Used the oak as a pilot on the larger hole saw drill bit to center the hole saw on the original hole in the frame. Take your time, use a bit of cutting oil and the hole saw goes through the frame no problem. If your original hole is very jagged, the pilot doesn't work well, but once you get the hole starting to cut in the right spot it keeps going without walking if you are careful. Chamfer the new hole, mig weld in the new washer. Grind it smooth with a flap disc.

[dataway]

Looking good, frame will probably end up stronger than it was from the factory. Can't help with your questions .... but like what you are doing .... restoration in it's truest form.

[gene simmons]

Jim
Looks like your making progress.

[672brlbaby]

Got a little further today. Decided to make a few patches underneath to bridge the joins. It seems very very solid. Next week i will get the old patch off the inside side and see what that looks like. The patch does fold under to the bottom. Should be a treat. Actually the treat will be the rounded off corner on the top that is half rotted off. One treat at a time though.

Jim

[dataway]

You are going to be a metal restoration specialist by the time you are done

[672brlbaby]

Thanks DATA, inspiration goes to Squidward(Dave). Almost everything he had to fix on his 67 conv, I have to fix on this 66.

[squidtone]

Hey 672,
Ahhhhm, I think you mean "squidtone" right? Haha!

Awesome work! I can't believe I missed this thread! So many people wouldn't do what you're doing. But it's great!
The frames are just a bunch of pieces of sheet metal and you're showing they can be patched perfectly without ugly, lumpy welds.
Keep on keepin on!

[672brlbaby]

Dave,

Apologies on the name butchering. Will try to think when i type from now on. sigh. Have to thank you again for your site. This is my first real project, as the 67 needed minor work compared to this. But the way you layed it out had me thinking from impossible to doable. And that is a big leap. The floor replacement will be next, and if i can get thru that, i don't believe there will be anything left to be afraid of. Very excited about this car, but am only at the beginning. Hopefully in 2 or 3 years there will be something to see!

Jim

[672brlbaby]

Ok, had some more playtime and fixed what i missed the first time around. I was sitting looking at the opening, and wondering what all the rusted flakes of metal were from. From the amount i would have thought the entire bottom would have been rotted off, but no bottom, no flakes. I looked at the pass side and the light went off. The inside side of the hard top frame was totally gone except a bit where it is welded to the side and the bottom at the end of the piece. The good news is i still had the piece from the spare section, the bad news is i cut it off the top patch not realizing i would need it. sigh. The hardtop piece is back as it should be, the two pieces sat on it almost correctly, and if i didn't miss anything else, the rest should go pretty well.

Jim

[dataway]

Without a doubt stronger than what you started with

[rohrt]

Nice work.

Single stall garage to boot. I like it.

[672brlbaby]

Thanks Rohrt. It is a small work area. I am 6'3" and constantly kicking things with my workboots. But still better than working in the snow. Love playtime.

[gene simmons]

Looks good Jim,your getting there.

[squidtone]

Beautiful job, it's nice to see some care in the craftsmanship for a good looking repair.

[672brlbaby]

Have a question, this is on the pass side. The seam along the bottom where the box folds over. In the pic you can see where the hardtop part going down the middle had rusted away, and i cut off the rest. the rust creeped into the seam. I spent time with the 1/4 grinder and the tear drop bit and got most of it out, i can see in the pic a spot i missed. The overlap is so wide that i am not worried about grinding some more off, But if i spend some time with a wire brush and the naval jelly, will it be clean enough to just weld back over it until i have the original curve back? Thanks,

Jim