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#1
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Crankshaft Movement
I just pulled the tranny from the my 455 and when I was under the car I happened to pushed on the flexplate and the crankshaft moved. I pushed it all the way forward and measured through the convertor bolt hole to the block and it measured .945, I pulled the crankshaft aft and it measured .975 Is this abnormal? Thanks
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#2
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Yes!
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#3
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End play should be .004 to .009 MAX
Stock is .005/.007 |
#4
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I spoke to the person I got the engine from. It's a fresh rebuild but has not been run as it has been mounted in my car for the past couple years. I was told it's a new Eagle crank with new main bearings. I'm going to take the engine out and basically tear it down and start from scratch. From what I've read the #4 bearing determines the end play, if that is true and the bearings and crank are new how do I decrease my already to large end play? It seems I have at least .021 excessive end play. Thanks for everyone's help
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#5
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Correct, the thrust bearing is located in the #4 bulkhead/web.
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#6
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Something definitely "wrong" here. Before jumping to conclusions, let's find out exactly what the situation is. As reported in Jim Hand's book, there were a few Eagle cranks that "got out" with a rough thrust face. It was a "process problem", not a "crank problem", and was corrected. It's doubtful you got one of these, as they've been "gone" for about 9 years, but it IS possible.
Once apart, measure the thickness of the flanged bearing AND the thrust surfaces in the crank. That will leave the element of "chance" out of the picture. Jim |
#7
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good thing it's not been run!
i had the same issue on my engine that got mothballed in early 2005 when i discovered it. finally tore it apart a couple months ago to see what was happening. fully expecting to see parts of the thrust bearing in the pan.... imagine my surprise when seeing the thrust bearing totally intact, only it was on the #3 main saddle, not the #4. i dont recall the exact amount of play, actually, i do. i took pix....
__________________
costs too much |
#8
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Quote:
__________________
'68 GTO 4-spd Hardtop (11) '68 GTO Convertible AT (1) '70 LeMans Sport Land of Lakes Muscle Car Classic Facebook Event Facebook Wall (Kurt Smith,Minneapolis) |
#9
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Thank you everyone for your inputs from your professional and hands on experience. I was encouraged that it's possible that something as simple as a bearing being installed in the incorrect position. I started thinking about what Jim said about the bad cranks from days past, I kept all the paperwork that was given to me on the engine and low and behold there was a receipt for the crankshaft. Then I started to get worried when I saw the date was in Dec 03. Seems like it would possibly fit in the time frame of when they were having process problems.
If I happen to have one of the process problem crankshafts is my best option just to purchase a new crankshaft? |
#10
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RMP,
I hadn't considered that. But you're right, I HAVE seen it. Even worse, I've seen it forced into #1! Have no idea who built it, but it came from NC. It oscillated so much it broke the rear main cap! Jim |
#11
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Its amazing to me that people will assemble as engine and not "pay attention" to things such as a slight machining on the surface of the block and cap for the thrust bearing,(among many other things). Makes you wonder in cases like this what else has been done wrong or overlooked. Ive seen engines that have actually run for quite a long time(even years) with some overlooked item in the engine.(Seen pistons and rods facing backwards in a lot of engines) (this seems to be everyone's favorite thing to do wrong),and a sbc one time with only 2 bolts holding the timing gear on(and they were loose),and no sign of the 3rd one, that had been together for 10 years. It is a testament to the engineers that designed them that they operate in those kind of conditions.
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#12
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Got the engine in the stand and removed the oil pan, and the thrust bearing was in the #1 position. Going to finish tearing it down today and inspect everything. I feel pretty confident in rebuilding the engine, if I can rebuild a jet engine this shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks everyone you guys were right on the money.
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#13
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If the thrust surface is worn and not grooved you may be able to get an oversize TB. I know they make them for Chevies. Other wise I have had them welded up and reground.
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#14
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0.975
- 0.945 -------------- .030 |
#15
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The #1 position? How the heck does it even fit and allow the crank to turn? Please post some pics!
__________________
“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
#16
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When I took the #1 cap off you could clearly see (as you look down) a gap between the main saddle and inner side of the thrust bearing. I've already stripped the block down. The crank spun fine, just the end play was out.
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#17
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That is a good find...be thankful you found it now rather than later!
__________________
Michael 1970 Oshawa built 1 option Judge. 24 year restoration/upgrade project finally finished! 1979 Trans Am - low-buck drag car project for when I retire |
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