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#1
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need some tips on fender alignment
tried everything but i cant this any better , any tips
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#2
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That door a 72? I have seen, and I set these up in the later 70's and early 80's , wide gaps like that from the factory. There needs to be enough gap in the middle to shut the door at the style line area or the fender has to come out some. You can run a bead of weld on the door or fender and re radius it. Some folks get it down to metal and use short strand fiberglass ( "bondo") to do this. If not close to hitting, this will last if prepped and mixed right.
At Sema shows, the "Riddler" Award cars 99% of the time have perfect gaps and they are made from filler where needed. yeah I said that, and its 100% true. Can show videos to you if needed.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulabruce For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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#4
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if yo have had the subframe out. make sure its square . you can do this with a plumb-bob dropping it to the floor and marking the points on the floor . then do a X measurement to confirm. make sure the car is level for this.
this is old school but .... |
#5
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Looks like factory gaps to me! To improve takes welding & grinding.
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"At no time did we exceed 175 mph.” Dan Gurney's truthful response to his and Brock Yate's winning of the first ever Cannonball Baker Sea-to-Shining Sea... Still have my 1st Firebird 7th Firebird 57 Starchief |
#6
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i will take a photo of the drivers side so we can compare
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#7
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Not being there and only 3 pics makes it a little tough. How many shims are on the cowl to fender bolt in the upper door jam? How many shims are on the front of the firewall? Judging by the size of the upper lip, it looks like a GM fender, correct?
Just for kicks I attached these gaps on my brand new '71 Camaro. Not perfect by todays standards, but shows how the got parts to fit quickly. Next pics are how I repair gaps especially with repop panels. I weld welding rod to one side, grind it flush, and use lead to fill it. I would avoid any type of plastic filler on the edge of jams. This would be the very last resort for you. Need to figure out the simple stuff first.
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#8
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#9
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Hold the phone sideways. The long side of the photo needs to be top and bottom.
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#10
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
#11
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On all my gaps I welded a small bead, then used micro fiber fiberglass filler to fill the weld and smooth and blend as needed.
had the exact same gap in your pics also. like seein the pics of original new gap and door alignment. I have learned to work them to what I will be satisfied with instead of trying to duplicate experienced professionals. |
#12
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you can close that gap at the top buy lifting the core support .
the gap down the door is largely controlled buy the location of core support . tip don't bolt the front of fender until last first align door to quarter and rocker . then align the fender to the door . you can budge center or flatten it buy the shimming the bottom of fender. the fender should be a little out further then the door for clearance and air into the jam |
#13
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#14
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What are the condition of your body mounts and radiator support mounts?
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#15
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brand new all the way around
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The Following User Says Thank You to grd777 For This Useful Post: | ||
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