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#1
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Hi All,
I've got my motor apart, and I'm in the process of running cooling lines from the back of the heads to the front of the intake. Yesterday, my father-in-law made me some adaptors that press into the holes used by the heater nipple and the freeze plug at the back of the heads. I've got 1/4" NPT to 6AN fittings screwed into them, and I'm going to run the lines to a Moroso SBC water neck. Pictures: And just for David Jones, who made fun of me for my bare-metal alternator bracket [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] |
#2
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Oh man I'm sorry it broke.. I hope ya got some good use out of it.
GURU: One who knows more jargon than you Scott Schering 70 Firebird 455 12.34 @ 108.2 Http://www.pontiacs.org
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William's Law-- There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance. Scott Schering Http://www.pontiacs.org |
#3
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#4
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OK stupid question, obviously the coolant flow is something I have not paid much attention to...
Is the theory here that as the water is coming up thru the block and heads it is better to have it going out thru all 4 "corners" of the heads rather than only at the front? "Nothing Beats an Ol' Goat..."
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"Nothing Beats an Ol' Goat." |
#5
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i have seen this done on several fast pontiacs,also seen the by pass hole on the intake pluged, what is the benifit or purpose of this modifacation? still in the middle of a winter rebuild ,might try this ,
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#6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by grandville455:
Has anyone done this to a rpm manifold yet?Looks like alot more cutting on one? Grandville455<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I just finished my mods on a performer rpm. I should have installed the drivers side fitting a little closer to the thermostat opening. Had very little clearence between the fitting and the bottom of the intake. Here are a cpl of pics. I still need to find a nicer looking hose clamp for the rear fittings. I used 1/2 NPT in the crossover and -10 hoses. The fittings in the crossover are Earl's pn 824510. They asr a little pricy but take up less room than the normal 1/2 to -10 and a hose end. Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#7
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However;
This next engine re-assembly will feature the timingcover crossover block done by a tapped Hex-plug. I assume there will be enough material to tap decent threads. "11.00/123MPH/1.50 60foot/29.5"/4.10:1/10"/472 #48/Flat HYD/DualQuad/Wenzler/3250Lbs 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60foot/26"/3.31:1/10"/472 #48/FlatHYD/Q-Jet/Torker/3650Lbs"
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12.24/111.6MPH/1.76 60'/28"/3.54:1/SP-TH400/469 R96A/236-244-112LC/1050&TorkerI//3850Lbs//15MPG/89oct Sold 2003: 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60'/26"x3.31:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Q-Jet-Torker/3650Lbs//18MPG 94oct Sold 1994: 11.00/123MPH/1.50 60'/29.5"x4.10:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Dual600s-Wenzler/3250Lbs//94oct |
#8
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Here are some pictures of the final mockup. I'm hoping to do the final assembly on the rest of the motor by the end of the weekend.
The Moroso SBC waterneck I bought wouldn't clear the Performer RPM intake, and even though it clears the Street Dominator intake, I would have had to fabricate a new alternator bracket, since the top of the water neck would have moved up about 2 inches. I didn't feel up to cutting off the water crossover, after screwing up the job on my Performer RPM intake, and after much mockup with accessories, etc... on the motor, we decided to run both lines to the passenger's side of the water crossover. I doubt it really makes much difference. Front: Back: |
#9
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Noticed the water jacket portion of the intake is cut away from the carb side. Did you cut the intake and How? My water pump to intake bolt striped out of my Alum manifold. I was thinking of cutting the water jacket off an iron one. If a Sawzall could do it? and removing the alum water jacket. Ive always had a bad water sealing problem with this intake (it was used) Leaked at the head 2 yrs ago today it leaks at the water pump. I was thinking the cast iron would seal better at the water parts, and keep the better alum design for the carb side!
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#10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by grumpybear:
Here in Southern Ontario Canada, we already have to use the heater to get the dew off the windows if we take the toy out in the mornings or evenings. Let me know about the adapters. Thanks, Dave.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> We have to do that here too. What a PITA! [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif[/img] Soon be time to put the car in storage. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_frown.gif[/img] |
#11
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Im guessing they are 10#s. I have 3/4 to 12 for the heads. and -12 90s. they do not clear the
dist on the driver side. I will return these tommorrow or monday and get 10's and try again. |
#12
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Good thread!
I did the same thing with my fittings that John did, only I took the stock nipple fittings, cut the nipple off, and welded a -6an fitting onto the base of the stock nipple fitting. It serves the same purpose as John's setup, but affords more distributor clearance as it will place the 90 degree fitting closer to the head. I'll post a pic tomorrow.
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Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
#13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jcs64:
not to sound stupid but what is the purposs of doing this?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> purpose is to lower the water temp about 10-20 degrees. Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]
__________________
67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by grumpybear:
Why use press in adapters in the back of the heads. Why not just tape both holes and thread in the fittings? Am I mssing something? Dave.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> 1. The holes in the back of the heads are rather large. I forget the exact size, but I'm fairly certain they're bigger than 1/2" NPT. 2. This way I can always go back to the way things were before, if I ever decide I want my heater back, etc... (although I probably could do so even if I threaded the heads). 3. The adapters were free [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] |
#15
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Was wondering something. For the adapters. Could you use the stock type fitting, cut off the nipples, and drill it out for a bulkhead type fitting. Russell, and others I'm sure, has a fuel cell bulkhead fitting with a teflon seal. Would this type of fitting achieve good seal for the water jacket. Just a thought. Or was that a question ????
Also, I noticed in your post from, October 04, 2002 12:50 AM, that you made two new holes in your intake. But, the existing holes are plugged off. Are you planning on putting something else ther? Was just curious why you didn't run your water lines to existing openings that were plugged off. Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]
__________________
67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#16
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What do you think?
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#17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by sscherin:
That Unilite looks familiar. Did I sell that to you about 4 years ago? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Sure did It finally died a couple of months ago, though... the shaft got enough end play in it that the advance mechanism ground itself to pieces on the support plate for the unilite sensor. It got replaced by a MSD billet distributor (they were about the same price new). It figures, because it died about a month after I bought the Mallory advance adjustment kit. |
#18
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Old Man Taylor:
67 455 Bird ragtop - Very nice looking implementation. http://www.jimspontiac.homestead.com/Index.html http://kurtsplates.homestead.com/files/jimplate.jpg <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Thanks OMT. From someone of your standing that makes me feel pretty good for an amatur. I got a lot of helpful ideas from folks on this forum. Honest dad, that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number
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67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
#19
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Hi All,
I've got my motor apart, and I'm in the process of running cooling lines from the back of the heads to the front of the intake. Yesterday, my father-in-law made me some adaptors that press into the holes used by the heater nipple and the freeze plug at the back of the heads. I've got 1/4" NPT to 6AN fittings screwed into them, and I'm going to run the lines to a Moroso SBC water neck. Pictures: And just for David Jones, who made fun of me for my bare-metal alternator bracket [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] |
#20
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If they are not #12, then they are #10. It seems to me that I was going to run a #10 from each side and then "T" into a #12, but I might have ended up with all #12. I will have to check to be certain of what I ended up doing. I do remember that the fittings and the hose were pretty expensive. I originally did It out of rubber hose and plastic fittings to the front cover, but I didn’t like how it looked or how the water would circulate.
http://www.jimspontiac.homestead.com/Index.html |
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