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#1
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Another Oil Question
I was told I should be using a zinc additive or oil that has zinc already in it. What are you guys using?
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#2
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I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil. It has plenty of zinc in it.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bruce Meyer For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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I use both the Lucas Hot Rod and Classic Car Motor Oil 10683 and the Driven Racing Oil Hot Rod Motor Oil 03806 Both have the needed amount of ZDDP (zinc) and other protective additives in them. Recommended by many here. I also use the WIX filters. Nary a problem.
__________________
"No replacement for displacement!" GTOAA--https://www.gtoaa.org/ |
#4
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Search ZDDP in this forum and you’ll get more info than you could ever read
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Will Rivera '69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears ‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears '69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: work in progress |
#5
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I like to use an oil I can buy locally that the oil company itself readily publishes the ZDDP content. Simplicity and full disclosure is a wonderful thing.
Mobil 1 does that for me. They have multiple oils with the proper ZDDP content. They have a number that you can call: Call 1-800-662-4525 with product questions. Above graph is easily obtained by googling 'Mobil 1 ZDDP content chart' and it will give you a link to the PDF. It will also show a link to the full Mobil 1 Engine Oil Product Guide PDF. Mobil specifically recommends their 15W50 and FS 0W40 for flat tappet cam applications. They also specifically state that racing oil is NOT recommended for street applications. Also, ZDDP is not just zinc, it's also phosphorous. Full specs for these two oils: 15W50 Phosphorous 1200 PPM Zinc 1300 PPM 0W40 Phosphorous 1000 PPM Zinc 1100 PPM I've been running these oils in the GTO and the Camaro for decades. |
The Following User Says Thank You to The Champ For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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Quote:
A stock or smaller street cam does NOT need VR1 or crazy high levels of zddp, there are advanced additives in todays oils as well as new longer lasting zddp that doesnt require as much as the older tech zddp. If the cam is broken in already & not a huge lift high/spring pressure, a quality brand modern oil will be more than sufficient at protecting the cam & rest of the engine. If you want more accurate info on oil than you could ever want, check out bobistheoilguy website, members there are far more knowledgeable on oils & all other automotive fluids than most anyone on here. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 78w72 For This Useful Post: | ||
#7
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I was never a fan of adding stuff to oil. Much rather prefer an oil that has an additive package that already does what I'm looking for.
There are quite a few good ones out there. Driven, Amsoil, Penn Grade, Lucas. I tend to like to use an oil that is locally available as well in case I'm ever in a pinch and need something, but generally I like to mail order as a member and benefit from the large discounts. In the end it's cheaper than most anything on the shelf. On top of that some of these oils also offer additive packages that are tailored towards the classic car that sits a lot between run periods to fight off corrosion. Could be a benefit for those that don't drive much and live in moist humid climates. How you use your car might influence the decision. There is so much to these oils it makes your head spin. Lots of good reading if one cares to dive in. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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Yeah well ... there's nothing cooler than a retro STP t shirt pal!!!
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#9
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I'm all for retro T-shirts
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#10
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**cough**
__________________
"Hammer to fit, paint to match" |
#11
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https://drivenracingoil.com/c-138946...gine-oils.html
Fact or Myth: Synthetic Oil Causes Leaks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v04QEj84Rv4 .
__________________
'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve C. For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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Agree Formulajones
Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Tom Vaught For This Useful Post: | ||
#13
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Most zinc additives have phosphorus in their package. No need for synthetic oils (that WILL cause leaks in engines that contain paper and cork gaskets) ridiculously thick oil, or wildly spaced goofy oil weights.
https://www.amazon.com/ZDDPPlus-Engi.../dp/B006LBAAD4 |
#14
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Quote:
Synthetic oils do NOT cause leaks on paper or cork gaskets if they are in good condition & installed right... its old, compromised or failed paper/cork gakets that will allow synthetics to seep/leak a little more than conventional oils since they are usually thinner or "slipperier". I use full synthetic in a 467 stroker pontiac with traditional felpro paper/cork gaskets & its 99% dry after years of street & drag strip use, just a slight seepage on the rear main after a whole season but no drips or leaks anywhere else on teh motor. have used synthetic blends in another pontiac motor with original rear main & none of the engines gaskets leak, but the rear main will seepdrip a little which its always done on any type of oil. |
#15
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It always seems like it’s the older crowd in the hobby that balks at synthetics - what gives ? 0w40 Mobil FS has zddp levels comparable to SD rated oil circa 1970 . Modern zddp formulas don’t brake down as much so not as much is needed . 0w40 Mobil is a thinner 40wt on the scale and sounds perfect for these engines . I’m torn between using it or a penn grade product that’s designed for cars that sit .
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When I wore a younger man's clothes |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to locomotivebreath For This Useful Post: | ||
#16
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Quote:
When I got out of the service, I returned to MN and sold commercial insurance. One of my customers was the local Mobil jobber. I asked about getting Mobil 1 through him to save money, and he said he could get me a better price on the commercial grade application - Delvac 1 that he sold to the mining companies on the Iron Range in MN. Ended up running that in my daily drivers for years until I relocated and lost that option. As stated earlier, I have used Mobil 1 in my GTO and the Camaro for decades with good results. I initially used the 15W50 because that was the first oil that Mobile specified for flat tappet cams. But the FS 0W40 is a better option for my fringe season driving (or the occasional beautiful day in December through February) in Minnesota. So nearly 50 years of using Mobil 1 or other synthetic oils... Not bad for an old fart.... |
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#17
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I've used synthetics for decades in these old cars and don't have leak problems.
People don't realize synthetic oils have been around since the 1920's used in aviation. Amsoil was the first to bring it to the automobile market in the 1960's and in 1972 it was the first to be API certified. Mobile and Pennzoil came along shortly after. In other words, synthetic oil has been around a looooong time. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
#18
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Good information in this interview with David Chamberlain on oils. Nothing flashy just information that will answer the OP's question as well as others.
https://youtu.be/y8nAxtFcxAE
__________________
If it breaks. I didn't want it in the first place. _____________________________________________ 69 GTO \ 72 FIREBIRD \ 1/2 OF A 64 GTO \ 70 JAVELIN \ 52 FORD PU \ 51 GMC PU \ 29 FORD PU \ 85 ALFA ROMEO SPYDER \ A HANDFUL OF ODD DUCATI'S \ 88 S10 LT1 BLAZER & MY DAILY DRIVER 67 SUBURBAN. |
#19
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Looks like this thread has ran its course, hope the OP got the answers he was looking for & maybe learned some things regarding oil...
Heres a link to the valvoline FAQ that I mentioned earlier, they explain about the new longer lasting ZDDP that doesnt require the high levels to provide the same protection as previous grades. maybe some that read it can understand that higher levels in "racing" type oils simply arent needed for the majority of stock-mild cams in this street section. Lots of other good info in their other FAQ sections. https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/racing-oil-faq/ |
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