[rasilverbird]

In the next few months, I'm going to start the bodywork on the 2nd restoration of my '68 GTO. I need some input on how to best handle the following areas.

This is my DS door. As you can see, it's eaten up pretty badly in the front. It extends into the hinge area as well:








Do you think I should replace the whole skin, or just patch this area? There's another very small area at the tailing edge of the door as well.



Here's the next question:

When I first did the car, I had patch panels put in the quarters. They were spot-welded in. Over time, the plastic over them cracked, and you could see the seam through the paint. Obviously not desirable. Here's one of the seams:



You can see the rust on the rear of the door in this pic too.

Here's where a few seams meet together:



I plan to stitch these joints fully, then grind them flush, so that there is no seam anymore. Is this the best move?


Lastly, my deck lid is pretty rough. Here's a pic of the outside, but the inside right behind these is bubbled up as well:



The rust started from the inside out, so both sides of metal need repair. Is this repairable? I'd hate to buy an aftermarket lid to replace this one, because it fits SO nice. Thanks for the help.

[webfoot]

Inside of door - I'd fix with a simple patch, you should be able to make one using scrap sheetmetal. For the bottom corner, might be more difficult to make a patch. I think I have a spare LH door that I won't use and isn't of any use to me aside from being in the way, I could hack it up for you.

Not sure I'd stitch those same old patches back in. I'd prefer to use a skin and cut as needed.

You are in luck, there aren't any 68-69 trunklids available aftermarket so that takes some of the guesswork out. Looks like yours could be patched pretty easily.

[rasilverbird]

Originally Posted by webfoot

You are in luck, there aren't any 68-69 trunklids available aftermarket so that takes some of the guesswork out. Looks like yours could be patched pretty easily.

Thanks for the reply. Since both sides of the trunk are rusted, should I cut them both out in affected areas, and replace with 1/4" steel? I'm having a hard time envisioning front and back individually when they are that close to each other.

I appreciate the offer on the door. I might take a look to see if I can find one locally first, before I ask you to ship it that far.

[webfoot]

Well I didn't mean the whole door, just that hack that corner out, but after I looked I realized it is a RH door and won't do you much good anyway.

I patched both corners of the trunk on the outisde. I would replace a larger area besides just the holes because all those darker areas are where it is rusting from the inside out, it just hasn't come through yet. Trunk lids in nice shape are going to set you back around $500, assuming you can find one so putting some time and money into a workable one is a good idea.

[paint guy]

You will find that your trunk will have weak metal all along your bottom edge, judging by the the pic you posted and as webfoot mentioned. Not sure what your thought was when you mentioned 1/4" inch steel as the affected area is substantially thinner gauge as you know. Without seeing the damage on the inside, I might be inclined to cut out that bad area first to evaluate how I would repair the outside. As you know, the outside sheet metal is folded over the inside, much like how a door skin would be installed. To do this right, this may require removal of the entire bottom of ther outside of the deck lid and a new patch panel the runs the entire width, depending on how weak the metal is and how corroded from the inside. It would be helpful if you could find another deck lid with a different area of damage and use that for patch panels. Although most rust in the area that yours has, I was able to find one that I used to patch mine on my car, which only required one inside patch. At any rate, I would try any cut the affected areas off in as few pieces as possible, and save them for patterns. Good luck with your project.

[Tempest]

when I repaired my trunk lid, I cut off the outer structure first, after 'unfolding' the outer panel back, I then could use the lower edge of the inner panel as a guide to fab up the new outer panel. Then once the outer is in place (but not folded yet) and the right size, you can than cut off the inner panel and shape it to fit in the new outer panel.
If you cut the entire lower panels off at once, you will have a difficult time positioning the new panels.

I am no expert,(as you can see from the pics) but I was glad I kept the inner panel as a guide for my new outer panel. After the inner was made, I then hammered the lip of the new outer over the inner.

Hope this makes sense.

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by Tempest

when I repaired my trunk lid, I cut off the outer structure first, after 'unfolding' the outer panel back, I then could use the lower edge of the inner panel as a guide to fab up the new outer panel. Then once the outer is in place (but not folded yet) and the right size, you can than cut off the inner panel and shape it to fit in the new outer panel.
If you cut the entire lower panels off at once, you will have a difficult time positioning the new panels.

I am no expert,(as you can see from the pics) but I was glad I kept the inner panel as a guide for my new outer panel. After the inner was made, I then hammered the lip of the new outer over the inner.

Hope this makes sense.

I usually do the same.

[rasilverbird]

Looks like I'm going to have fun with the deck lid. Thanks for the responses!

[Mr Twister]

I would find rust free parts and replace the rusted "bolt on" parts. I realize some of us like a challenge, but sometimes if you go the easy route, it frees up time and energy for the harder tasks.

[salem1912]

This may help http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3711113476.html ?? zip code is 19335

[Dave R]

Don't use the thicker 1/4" metal that you mentioned in place of sheet metal. It can create a dangerous situation in an impact as the thin metal around it is designed to crumple while the thick metal can stay rigid, potentially impaling the gas tank or occupants of the car.

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by Dave R

Don't use the thicker 1/4" metal that you mentioned in place of sheet metal. It can create a dangerous situation in an impact as the thin metal around it is designed to crumple while the thick metal can stay rigid, potentially impaling the gas tank or occupants of the car.

He is talking about his trunk lid, not his trunk floor.

[Dave R]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

He is talking about his trunk lid, not his trunk floor.

I misread that but same thing applies. Just a general no-no on cars.

[rasilverbird]

Originally Posted by 400 4spd.

He is talking about his trunk lid, not his trunk floor.

Right. I would replace both layers of sheet metal with about 2" of 1/4", if I went that way. It was an idea I was floating as a possible solution.

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by rasilverbird

Right. I would replace both layers of sheet metal with about 2" of 1/4", if I went that way. It was an idea I was floating as a possible solution.

1/4" won't be any advantage, go with 20 gauge steel sheet, 18 gauge at the most. Do not use galvanized.