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#1
07-25-2007, 10:34 AM
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Break in oil
I usually use just ordinary conventional 10-40 for initial start up on a fresh engine. Just wanted to check what some of you use.
Thanks, Bill
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LIFT HEAVY, LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO BE SMALL! |
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#2
07-25-2007, 10:42 AM
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I have had excellent results and no cam failures and no additives with AutoZone HD 30.
But all my solid or hyd cams breaking in never drop below 2000 rpms for a full 1/2 hour. So far. |
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#3
07-25-2007, 11:20 AM
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Hmmmm, this case of Rotella HD 15W-40 was mighty expensive compared to Autozone HD 30.
STP additive seems a good thing AFTER break-in these days. I have 5500Miles of "good-so-far". |
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#4
07-25-2007, 04:14 PM
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Valvoline 30 weight non deterent oil.
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#5
07-25-2007, 04:29 PM
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valvoline 10-30 with two bottles of gm eos. unless you are dealing with very high spring pressures (over 300 on the seat) then i use redline synthetic to avoid problems with the valvetrain.
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'78 Ford Fairmont 526ci pontiac; true 10.5 tires and stock suspension. 5.14 @140.5 w/nos; 8.86@151 all motor.8.17@172 1/4 mile w/nos |
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#6
07-25-2007, 04:52 PM
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I use mostly straight weight conventional oils for break-in,with along with a dose of torco MPZ magnetic friction reducer add-on component (the same stuff that's in all torco oils).
Looks like I'll be using either the valvoline VR-1 30w or the brad penn break-in 30w with the torco MPZ add-on stuff for now. HTH. |
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#7
07-25-2007, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Along with a bttl of GM-E.O.S. If fact, used V-30 exclusively for years since i didnt drive the FB during the winter.
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If you cant drive from gas pump to gas pump across the map, its not a street car. http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/b...hop/?start=100 |
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#8
07-26-2007, 08:08 AM
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Valvoline 'Running in oil', printed on the label on the container. Sae 30 wt.
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#9
07-26-2007, 09:05 AM
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Normally use 30 Weight for break in. Just got a couple cases of Brad Penn break in oil I'm gonna try. According to my test results it looks good. Also had favorable reports from other engine builders that are using it.
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#10
07-26-2007, 09:38 AM
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For the novice (me).....what parameters do you guys use to evaluate an oil?
temps,rpms,color,filter,rub between the fingers? |
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#11
07-26-2007, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
You want an oil that does'nt "shear" or "break down" and loose viscosity. You want an additive package that promotes long component life and protects internal components from damage. You dont want an oil that'll build up a bunch of goo in the engine,so it needs some detergent like qualities. I mean the technical aspects could fill a book thick as a phone book to explain it all. Main thing to remember is almost no source (cam company or such) will recommend break-in using synthetic oils,and rare is the source that advises using multi-viscosity oils unless they are very strong M/V oils like the HDEO or diesel style M/V oils like rotella or such,or possibly race based M/V oils that have a stronger additive package to hold up better. Beyond that is pretty much the relm of personal preference. So far the choice is mostly uniform. Want oil info,this place has all you could want and more: BITOG forums. HTH. |
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#12
07-26-2007, 08:37 PM
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We use the oil viscosity that the engine clearances and parts choices were designed to run with. But we always run a bottle of EOS as others have stated.
Without hijacking the thread... Has anyone purchased EOS lately? Was there any indication of a supply problem? My guy is telling me that GM has discontinued it. Hopefully my parts guy is wrong but he would only sell us 6 bottles last week as that was all he had and all he was going to get. ?? Scoggin Dicky has a limited supply...so they tell me. Jim |
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#13
07-27-2007, 06:34 PM
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Jim- That's what I've been hearing; EOS is discontinued.
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#14
07-28-2007, 12:29 AM
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I never used EoS so It is not a problem for me. I have used STP and cheap straight 30weight oil forever for break in. (Plus what ever lube comes with the cam and black moly on valve tips and pushrod ends. try to get as close to 30 minutes as I can at 2000+ rpm, but have gone as little as 20 minutes. After run in I change to my regular oil(Pennzoil) and another bottle of STP. I use 30w oil in engines that wont see much cold weather. 10w40 in those that will. I like to change the oil and filter again after about 100 miles, then just the filter the next 500. Then regular oil changes no more than 3000 miles and or at least twice a year. If your oil suddenly smells different or starts consuming oil(low dipstick reading) get it out of there, its breaking down.
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#15
07-28-2007, 12:59 AM
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Ignorance was bliss for many years, I've broken in many cams with 10W-30 motor oil with zero failures. Then I read all the posts about lobe failures so I start to panic!
On my last camshaft break-in I used the supplied cam lube, additional camlube, valvetrain received engine assembly lube, GM EOS, STP, and Rotella 15W-40! Everything is good so far. JD
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Good luck to the new owner of the Ventura II! Sold the car after 13+ years. Look for it on the Hot Rod Power Tour in the future as it's currently being re-configured as a Pro-Touring ride! 
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