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#1
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Move the Alternator?
I installed the Offey dual quad intake this weekend, Looks great.
The only problem I have is the Holley carbs, come a bit forward. The radiator hose is hitting the back of the alternator. I can't seem to figure a way to relocate anything to make the hose work. Is it possible to move the alternator down, or even to the passenger side to get it out of the way? I have power steering, so lowering the alternator down is kinda out of the question, maybe a inch or so. I have a CSR water neck, and it does swivel. Any suggestions? Didn't someone have a alternator bracket in the works a year or so ago?
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........I'm just learning as I go....... |
#2
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I modified my stock alt. bracket to relocate it to the passenger side. Worked like a charm. I think I have a pic.
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#3
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Found a couple more.
Hope this helps. |
#4
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re alt location
i fabbed, welded and mounted a later model alternator to the frame. have only one pic without the belt installed. makes it nice to get it out of the way..... this is not something one would do with their stocker tho.......
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1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter 1964 GTO post coupe, tripower, 4speed (build) 1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver 1966 GTO dragcar 1966 GTO Ragtop 1969 Tempest ET clone street/strip 1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto 1969 GTO limelight Conv. 4speed go and show (sold) 1970 GP SSJ 1970 GTO barn find..TLB…390 horse?….yeh, 390 1972 GTO 455 HO, 4 speed, (build) 1973 Grand Safari wagon, 700hp stoplight sleeper 525ci DCI & 609ci LM V head builds |
#5
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make sure it'll clear first
You could always try to relocate to the passenger side. However, before you chop up a good alt. bracket, make sure it'll clear everything first. I was going to do the same, and one thing that I noticed is that the alternator (powermaster 100amp) was too deep and it hit the cylinder head, even with the alternator on the outer most pulley groove. So, because of that, I ended up moving it down more, on the driver's side, just to "clean up" the look of the engine. As for my power steering, that's what S10's are good for...
However, if you get a shallower alternator, and considering the pulley's you use, it will work if you mount it lower on the passenger side. And, as always, it will work if you mount it above the head provided you clear everything else (fuel lines, a/c brackets, etc). It sure does clean up the compartment though, when it's moved downward. |
#6
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Having an a/c compressor in that location I had to come up with something else for the top hose routing. I used a hose designed for my 68 GP, used a Summit angled-type thermostat housing, and looped the hose around the alternator.
Les
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Les Iden ---------------------------- '65 Buick Sport Wagon Custom, 340, T350, 3:23 '66 GTO Post/468, 700R4, 3.31 (Mike's as of 9-16) '68 Grand Prix/455, dual AFBs, T400, 2:93 posi (sold) '72 TA tribute/461, T400, 3.08, (Russ's as of 9-16) '97 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder Turbo, Konis, 5 speed '09 Torrent GXP, nav, Sun & Sound pkg., Bilsteins |
#7
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I bought a BOP alternator bracket which allows a few different ways of mounting. I had to get 7" bolts and make a 3/4" spacer for them to line up with the outside water pump pulley. I also have a super damper which pushed the crank pulley out and had to shim a bit as well. Here is a pic on their website showing how it can be mounted down lower. I have 6x heads.
http://www.bopengineering.com/beltdrive_acc_front.shtml
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68 Firebird Are you running with the wind or breaking it? |
#8
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I used the BOP pulley as well, it works good and looks sharp, but I found that it flexed a little bit when the motor pulled hard. I've found with the last couple alternator relocations I've done (pontiac, chevy, and GM) it's best and easiest using just spacers and heim joints. kinda like march pulleys systems. all you have to do is use a long bolt and spacer (you can often use the stock spacer if it had one) to mount the pivot end of the alt to the head in any orientation you need, then bolt a heim joint/tube to part of the engine, using a spacer if needed, and bolt it to the threaded end of the alternator. sorrn, I don't have any pics on hand.
for the heim joints, I just bought the ends for a few bucks a piece, and welded nuts on the ends of some steel tubing from home depot. worked great in the firebird, easy to adjust and the belt CAN"T loosen. I have a cog belt system, so it would pull the alt in at high rpms. I know it sounds easier that it is, but I have had about half a dozen different get-ups on my car for the alt mount and this is what did the best. good luck
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hmmmm.... which car do I work on today? -answer: all of them, they all need something |
#9
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Anything's possible with enough fabrication.
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#10
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Will the BOP unit move it to the passenger side....I don't see why it won't..
Jack, that is a interesting set up. Maybe a long tensioning bracket......
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........I'm just learning as I go....... |
#11
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I think you should find hole patterns on any head that would work.
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68 Firebird Are you running with the wind or breaking it? |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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My alt is mounted similar to Pontiac Jack's, but tucked in a bit closer. Keeps the fan belt runs shorter, less likely to throw a belt.
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#14
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Quote:
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#15
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According to BOP, this will in fact move the alternator to the other side. I ordered it, $35.00, so I will post a pic when done.
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........I'm just learning as I go....... |
#16
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Quote:
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Wade Congdon BOP Engineering Hi-Performance Specialty Parts for Buick, Olds, and Pontiac www.bopengineering.com |
#17
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Wade, I got it today. Looks like a nice piece. Thanks alot.
The $35.00 quote is for a rebate for the free advertising here... I will post the pics on how it comes out. The only problem I think will come up is cutting that new harness to reach over that far. I hope it will reach. BTW, fastest shipping in the West, or North I should say.
__________________
........I'm just learning as I go....... |
#18
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ps box
Quote:
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#19
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Gotchya. Yeah, not an option for me, since I'm using a Hydroboost....
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