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#1
05-14-2004, 07:37 AM
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Any special way to install main bearing studs?
I was told that you screw them in tight and then back them off a few turns. Is this correct? Thanks
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"For some reason a glaze passes over people's faces when you say "Canada". Maybe we should invade South Dakota or something." 
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#2
05-14-2004, 07:37 AM
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Any special way to install main bearing studs?
I was told that you screw them in tight and then back them off a few turns. Is this correct? Thanks
__________________
"For some reason a glaze passes over people's faces when you say "Canada". Maybe we should invade South Dakota or something."
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#3
05-14-2004, 08:15 AM
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Check your mains closely. I've been told that going from bolt to stud may require a line bore due to different clamping forces which may cause distortion.
Mines going a bolt-->stud conversion also. I'm just trying to avoid what happened to your post in the Street Section. I figure the bolts are 30+ years old, seen countless cycles, let them retire peacefully 
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'71 Holden HQ Monaro - 3850lbs race weight, 400c/i - 11.4 @ 120 '66 Pontiac GTO - 389, 4 speed street cruiser |
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#4
05-16-2004, 09:13 AM
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I'm getting conflicting info. on this. A machine shop I deal with here says that it's not necessary? Others I've been in contact with say it's not necessary? How is a person to know what's right or wrong?
I'm not trashing what anyone says or thinks about this subject, and ulimately it comes down to me making a decision but, is there any hard evidence to support this claim? If ARP or anyone else making and selling stud kit's for replacing stock bolt's knew that a potential problem exists, wouldn't/shouldn't they have a disclaimer to address the issue, if one truely exists?
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"For some reason a glaze passes over people's faces when you say "Canada". Maybe we should invade South Dakota or something."
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#5
05-16-2004, 07:58 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Doug Christie:
Any special way to install main bearing studs? I was told that you screw them in tight and then back them off a few turns. Is this correct? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Screw them in finger tight. I would NOT back them out "a couple of turns"--think about it, you're reducing the number of engaged threads when you do that. I think ARP lists the "official" torque spec as something like 2-5 ft/lbs. If you want you can use threadlocker on the block side but make sure you do your final torque down of the nuts before the threadlocker sets. As far as the align hone goes I would at the very least check the main bores for size/out of round with an inside mic, snap gauge, or dial bore gauge just to be sure the mains aren't out of round with the studs installed. |
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#6
05-21-2004, 08:48 PM
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Just got my ARP stud kit today. The footnote to the instalation instructions clearly state that if your replacing your bolts for studs, you will have to (do to different clamping forces) align hone your block!
__________________
"For some reason a glaze passes over people's faces when you say "Canada". Maybe we should invade South Dakota or something."
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#7
05-22-2004, 08:48 PM
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I have installed dozens of Stud kits without Align honing. But I use the moly lube and 5 ft/lbs less torgue then the stock torque setting.
 But check it first. If two surfaces are flat mated and torqued, how can that fit be changed?  Op's posted under the other halfs sig. Sorry.
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If you think you've got everything under control...you're not going fast enough...Mario Andretti |
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#8
05-22-2004, 09:50 PM
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PDude, Just relaying what ARP states as a warranty issue in their instructions. Just their way of covering their a$$ incase anything happens like premature bearing wear or something. I'm sure they base their disclaimer on their own testing as well as that of others.
ARP: http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/tech.html ARP: http://www.arp-bolts.com/media/pdf_f...9-31_36-37.pdf
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"For some reason a glaze passes over people's faces when you say "Canada". Maybe we should invade South Dakota or something."
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#9
05-23-2004, 05:27 AM
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Since Pontiac uses pinned caps the alignment will not change. Even so, checking the align bore should be standard procedure for any engine rebuild, especially if you plan on making BIG power. Special tools are not really required to do this. When assembling the engine leave out the rear seal, the crank should turn easily by hand. Any tight spots indicate troubles......Cliff
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
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#10
05-23-2004, 08:12 AM
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So then if I had my engine align bored with my old bolts, put 3000 miles on it and then change to studs without align boring the block again, that's OK? GEEEZZZZ!!!! I just sent the studs back and installed the bolts again and buttoned everything back up.
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"For some reason a glaze passes over people's faces when you say "Canada". Maybe we should invade South Dakota or something."
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#11
05-23-2004, 05:32 PM
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Doug,not to worry, the bolts will be fine. We used stock Pontiac main bolts for many years without any issues.....Cliff
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If you can read this, thank a teacher. If you can read this in English, thank a Veteran! https://cliffshighperformance.com/ 73 Ventura, SOLD 455, 3740lbs, 11.30's at 120mph, 1977 Pontiac Q-jet, HO intake, HEI, 10" converter, 3.42 gears, DOT's, 7.20's at 96mph and still WAY under the roll bar rule. Best ET to date 7.18 at 97MPH (1/8th mile), |
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#12
05-23-2004, 11:39 PM
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 Fully driving the studs to the bottom will reduce the pull-out force of the Studs, vs. backing them out slightly from full seated and torqued to bottom position. This is true because with a stud situation, a completly seated (@ Bottom) with applied torque, a stud, now places more pressure on only one side of the engaged thread, thus reducing its pull-out force by as much as 50%.  MRDAN7
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