[TA76]

Installed my cam and bolted up the locking plate, torqued to specs but it looks warped or something. I expected it to be flush against the block, it didn't seem warped before I put it on. The cam was pretty difficult to install, did not want to slide in easily, Should it be pushed back as far as it will go? Afraid to continue with the assembly with it like this, advice anyone?

[Richie Hoffman]

Rear of cam hitting cam plug on back of block

[TA76]

Thanks Richie for the quick reply! I'll look at that.

[TA76]

OK pulled the plate off, it is off a bit not quite flat. I was able to shift the cam back into the block a bit more. The edge of the lobes are not centered with the lifter bores and the cam looks a little "counter sunk" into the block. Is this correct? Sorry for the stupid questions but I want to make sure I'm not screwing anything up, I have no desire to repeat this rebuild process.

[tom s]

Lobes are designed to be offset.Tom

[TA76]

So this is correct? Sorry I've not done this is a very long time and don't remember much. Was thinking the lobes needed to match the lifter bores.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

From the info provided:
The cam will run flush to the front of the block, lifter bore alignment should be better and likely fine then.

Does the cam turn easily?
If not:
You likely have a problem with the cam bearings.
You will need a new thrust plate also.
Find and fix the cam bearing issue before installing the new plate.
HTH

[Tom Vaught]

Easy to bend the cam retainer plate if the cam was hanging up on the cam bearings or the rear cam core plug was too far forward, as mentioned in other posts.

If you bent the cam retainer plate, it is better to just buy a new one.

All parts of the system need to move freely and checks made at each step for proper installation.

"Throw it together" is a bad way to learn, unless you are wealthy IMO.
Even then, sometimes better to just have a PRO like Richie or the Butlers do it for you.

Tom V.

[tom s]

The dist will push the cam forward,if that far back there is no issue with the rear soft plug.Get a new plate,make sure you can turn the cam over without a big effort and you should be good to go.Tom

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by TA76

and the cam looks a little "counter sunk" into the block. Is this correct?

The cam will come back forward when you put the timing gear on and bolt down the fuel pump eccentic.
MAKE SURE the cam snout is sticking through the cam gear for the fuel pump eccentric to fit/center on. Once you tighten the bolt..check your end play.

Clay

[ANDYA]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

From the info provided:
The cam will run flush to the front of the block, lifter bore alignment should be better and likely fine then.

Does the cam turn easily?
If not:
You likely have a problem with the cam bearings.
You will need a new thrust plate also.
Find and fix the cam bearing issue before installing the new plate.
HTH

I would agree. If the cam bearings are installed properly the cam should not be hard to install. I would stop and find out what's wrong. When assembling an engine if something doesn't feel right then something is not right. On my last engine that I assembled Nunzi did all the machine work and installed the cam bearings. The cam slipped in like butter and I could spin it with one finger. The engine makes plenty of power and holds perfect oil pressure.

[TA76]

Thanks for all the great info everyone. I will check with my machine shop on the cam tightness issue. I did coat the cam mains with Comp Cams lube before installing. That stuff is pretty sticky, maybe that is causing the issue. Should I have used motor oil instead?

[NeighborsComplaint]

Oil on the cam journals only, cam assembly lube on the lobes.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

Oil on the cam journals only, cam assembly lube on the lobes.

Agree, remove the camshaft and wipe off the cam lube from the journals and use basic motor oil there. Cam lube only on the lobes, never on the journals. stuff will restrict oil flow to the journals and letting the oil drain properly.

Tom V.

[TA76]

Thanks again guys, sure am glad I asked and that this section is "No question too basic here!" I'm sure I will have a few more before I have this thing together.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Agree, remove the camshaft and wipe off the cam lube from the journals and use basic motor oil there. Cam lube only on the lobes, never on the journals. stuff will restrict oil flow to the journals and letting the oil drain properly.

Tom V.

Hey Tom,
What lube you talking about that can stop-up or restrict oil flow?

I ONLY use Sealed Power Cam and Assembly Lube for cam swaps, rebuilds/refresh, new builds, etc.. I use it to lube nearly every moving part but rings. I've also used it as an additive on oil changes.
A thin film is all it takes with it. A thin film is all that's left on parts once they're installed. Nothing thick or gobbed up dripping/hanging off the parts.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-55-400/overview/

So would just like to know what not to try or reccomend if it will plug oil passages up.

Clay

[track73]

I have mentioned this before. On my last .030 455 build the cam was just real hard to install. It wouldn't get pasted the 2nd cam bearing. I bought new cam bearings and installed them and the same problem was present. The block was baked and peened to clean it. I took a brake cylinder hone and a lot to WD-40 and honed the cam bores and found out the bores were upset on the edges. I honed until the edges we almost even with middle of the bore. I could tell because the edges were shinny. I douched it out real good and reinstalled the 3rd set of bearings and the cam went in easily. I told the machinist about this and he said "never happened before".

[JLMounce]

The cam should not be hard to move in. When I did the install on mine, with just oil on the cam journals, you could literally push the thing through with your pinky and even then you had to watch how much pressure you gave it.

It should slide and spin freely. If it doesn't, definitely find out why and have it corrected.

As others have mentioned, I would buy a new cam plate now that it's warped. Some of the cam plates for sale are not necessarily the correct thichness however, so you may want to look in to that. The one I purchased ended up .08 to thin and left my end-play at .015 as a result. For a flat tappet cam this probably isn't an issue, but if you're running a roller, it may be.

I believe Tin Indian Performance sells cam plates that are the correct thickness.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by tom s

The dist will push the cam forward,if that far back there is no issue with the rear soft plug.Get a new plate,make sure you can turn the cam over without a big effort and you should be good to go.Tom

X 2. A new cam retaining plate should be installed with a new cam.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by track73

I have mentioned this before. On my last .030 455 build the cam was just real hard to install. It wouldn't get pasted the 2nd cam bearing. I bought new cam bearings and installed them and the same problem was present. The block was baked and peened to clean it. I took a brake cylinder hone and a lot to WD-40 and honed the cam bores and found out the bores were upset on the edges. I honed until the edges we almost even with middle of the bore. I could tell because the edges were shinny. I douched it out real good and reinstalled the 3rd set of bearings and the cam went in easily. I told the machinist about this and he said "never happened before".

BS. This is a fairly common problem when shot blasting blocks after thermal cleaning. The shop where I have my blocks cleaned leaves the cam bearings in place while shot blasting the block.