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#1
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Pre-assembly block wash in cold weather?
Hey cold climate guys. I shut off my outdoor water last October and it’s like 24 degrees outside right now. I’m getting ready to start assembling my short block and I’m used to doing the big soapy splashy wash in the driveway to get the block nice and clean before assembly. Obviously I can’t do that right now. What are your tips and hacks for good, thorough block washing without a garden hose and mild temps outside?
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#2
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Can you take it to a self serve car wash?
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Stuart For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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I run the garden hose into the house to the fitting on the bottom of the home water heater. Steam clean! Then blow the hell out of it with shop air. Wipe bores and machine surfaces with WD40 soon after.
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LIFT HEAVY, LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO BE SMALL! |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BILL BOWMAN1 For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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That’s a thought. I could put a rubber mat down in the bed of my truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#5
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Quote:
Love it! Sounds worth a try but I wonder if my “Zero-G” lightweight hose would melt, haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#6
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I put mine in my parts washer that had fairly new mineral spirits in it. My parts washer is pretty big though..
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The Following User Says Thank You to Mr Twister For This Useful Post: | ||
#7
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I have taken hot soapy water in a 5 gallon pail and done it that way. Just spend extra time blowing it out and oiling the spots you don’t want to rust
Have done the car wash thing too. Got dirty looks 20 years ago. Lol Is there anyway you can do it in your basement? It’s a mother to get out in one piece but then you have a nice stable temp for checking clearances and gaps etc
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1969 carousel red firebird 455, richmond 5 speed 1964 540 gto 1971 lemans sport convertible 1972 Maverick under slow construction |
The Following User Says Thank You to mysticmissle For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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Do you know anyone with a heated pressure washer?
If not, you might try someone like these guys:
SteamWorks Pressure Washing 775-351-4377 https://steamworksservices.com Even though it's not their core business, they could definitely clean it. As a side-note, it was down to 28* on my pack porch at 745am this morning......in Las Vega$ !! Gotta be a little colder up there where you are...... Good luck! |
The Following User Says Thank You to Joe's Garage For This Useful Post: | ||
#9
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I think the high today was around 20*.
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#10
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If you have any device that makes hot air then put a bag around the block on an engine stand and pump hot air up through it until its very warm. Make two 5 gallon buckets: one with the hottest soapy sink water you can make and another with the biggest container of hot water on the stove. Thoroughly wash the block using a bristle brush for the cylinders and rifle brushes for the oil gallerys. Then rinse with the hot stove water, spray down with acetone or methanol in a spray bottle followed by compressed air and then immediately with WD40 on all machined surfaces. Bag and you are ready for assembly.
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
The Following User Says Thank You to AG For This Useful Post: | ||
#11
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Quote:
This is what I was originally thinking to do. One pail filled with hot soapy water for washing and one filled with clear warm water for rinse off. Follow with lots of compressed air and space heaters, and oil where needed. I am kind of liking the coin op car wash option provided I don’t blast out the cam bearings, ha. Good news is the forecast is calling for lower 50’s middle of next week. I’ll wait for the heat wave. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#12
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Sounds like the voice of experience talking! What exactly does the acetone do? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#13
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I have had too many parts rust with WD-40 on them.
I use it after washing with water but them finish with something like PB Blaster or better yet, Fluid Film. Then bag it, you might have to clean off some Fluid Film but you will not have to worry about rust. I had a fresh crank with WD-40 in a bag. Had to have it polished. Dumped WD-40 for any go to anti rust. It does do a good job of a water dis-placer and is safer than some others on your skin-fumes ect. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Dragncar For This Useful Post: | ||
#14
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WD 40 displaces water, then it evaporates. It's really over rated for softening rust, or protecting metal from rusting from moisture in the air, but it was never meant to do what many people think it does. Originally formulated for drying out electrical devices that had gotten exposed to water.
Fluid film will stop rust, yes you'll have to wipe it off with some kind of solvent, but it won't be rusty when it's cleaned off. In the North salt country, people use it to rustproof cars. They spray it on in the fall, and reapply it the following year before winter, it does work that well. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Sirrotica For This Useful Post: | ||
#15
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The acetone or methanol will help remove water, spray it down and blow it off with compressed air.
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
#16
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Take it to a transmission shop. They typically have a cabinet style case pressure washer/drier that is large enough for an engine block if they rebuild truck transmissions.
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Triple Black 1971 GTO |
#17
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The bathtub is the clear winner here solid hot tap water Mr Bubble shotgun brush's
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If your not at the table you're on the menu A man who falls for everything stands for nothing. |
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